Build GW Nugget's Budget Daily Lx450 build

[baldilocks]

They are 2" MAF & measure 2.5".
I dont want anything perminate like welded.
I need to move axle forward 1".
Im hopping to get a set of Delta arms to address the caster, axle forward & control arm flex freedom all at once.

My 6” delta arms are .75” longer than stock arms so the ones you buy for 2” or 3” won’t move the front axle forward an inch and would actually need to be moved forward less than mine. Going forward more than what’s necessary to put the axle back where it was pre-lift will open a different box of problems to overcome. The Delta arms are the ticket for guys choosing to stick with radius arms.

 

[Broski]

My 6” delta arms are .75” longer than stock arms so the ones you buy for 2” or 3” won’t move the front axle forward an inch and would actually need to be moved forward less than mine. Going forward more than what’s necessary to put the axle back where it was pre-lift will open a different box of problems to overcome. The Delta arms are the ticket for guys choosing to stick with radius arms.

Now that I have moved my axle foreword 1" whats this different box of problems I have to over come ?

 

[Dragos80]

So the MAF brackets don't address the forward movement of the axle? I thought the new holes sit lower and forward of the original ones.

 

[bryson]

Now that I have moved my axle foreword 1" whats this different box of problems I have to over come ?

My front axle is 1" forward as well, and has been for years. There are many, many Cruisers built this way, and there are no issues as you certainly know.

 

[baldilocks]

Now that I have moved my axle foreword 1" whats this different box of problems I have to over come ?

Now that I have moved my axle foreword 1" whats this different box of problems I have to over come ?

The Pythagorean theorem never lies. Why move the axle farther forward than it was from the factory? Guys who don’t want to slice and dice fenders need to know this because moving the axle forward a whole inch when only .5” is necessary will dictate unnecessary loss of up travel or hacking out the forward portion of the inner fender.

If @Delta VS designed my arms for a six inch lift .75” longer than stock, why would moving the axle forward 1” on a 3” lift be helpful? Problems to overcome would be cutting fender wells, coils misaligned, and front driveline extension. This is off the top of my head. Moving any suspension component causes down line repercussions. I believe they call this the domino effect.

 

[jkeithw]

They are 2" MAF & measure 2.5".
I dont want anything perminate like welded.
I need to move axle forward 1".
Im hopping to get a set of Delta arms to address the caster, axle forward & control arm flex freedom all at once.

Can't help on the welded part, but I did put 30mm forward positioning in my brackets for additional firewall clearance.

With a 2" lift and 2.5" drop mounts you should be back to stock caster (and back down to stock anti-dive) - what's the issue there that needs further correction?

 

[jkeithw]

The Pythagorean theorem never lies. Why move the axle farther forward than it was from the factory? Guys who don’t want to slice and dice fenders need to know this because moving the axle forward a whole inch when only .5” is necessary will dictate unnecessary loss of up travel or hacking out the forward portion of the inner fender.

If @Delta VS designed my arms for a six inch lift .75” longer than stock, why would moving the axle forward 1” on a 3” lift be helpful? Problems to overcome would be cutting fender wells, coils misaligned, and front driveline extension. This is off the top of my head. Moving any suspension component causes down line repercussions. I believe they call this the domino effect.

I don't think front fender trimming is a major deal for a lot of guys in this hobby. Also, I think your driveline extension & coil misalignment examples could stand to be re-thought - you yourself run a .75" extended length arm, after all, right? - your driveshaft is extended and your coils are misaligned virtually the same amount at full compression. I'm assuming you're not having any issues with either of them?

 

[baldilocks]

I don't think front fender trimming is a major deal for a lot of guys in this hobby. Also, I think your driveline extension & coil misalignment examples could stand to be re-thought - you yourself run a .75" extended length arm, after all, right? - your driveshaft is extended and your coils are misaligned virtually the same amount at full compression. I'm assuming you're not having any issues with either of them?

My arms are .75” longer bc they need to be that much longer. They are designed fir a six inch lift. You missed my point completely. Why move the axle forward an inch when math dictates .5” or whatever. Perhaps Gary will explain how he decided that one inch forward was necessary.

 

[jkeithw]

My arms are .75” longer bc they need to be that much longer. They are designed fir a six inch lift. You missed my point completely. Why move the axle forward an inch when math dictates .5” or whatever. Perhaps Gary will explain how he decided that one inch forward was necessary.

I understood your argument. Your arms are extended to recenter the front axle at ride height for your lift height.

I was actually mistaken with my previous post however - since your radius arm mounts are in the stock location, your setup will actually have more issues at full compression than that of equally extended arms using a dropped mount.

A dropped mount with the pivot relocated forward and stock length arms will have less interference at full compression than either of those scenarios.

(still getting coffee in me this morning)

 

[baldilocks]

Is Gary moving his axle forward 1” or is he buying Delta arms? Both were mentioned. If he gets the delta arms, the length will be designed for the lift his rig sports. If he remains on stock arms and the drop brackets he got from me some years ago, moving the axle forward an inch is still uncalled for at 2” suspension lift.

Any way you slice it, 1” forward on the low suspension lift working on is not called for mathematically. Now, if his goal is greatly improved approach angle then why not move the axle forward 6”. This would show purposefully intention.

As for your comment about issues with longer arms mounted at the stock frame location; I don’t think any set up is perfect, not even from the factory.

Did you get your coffee? I like the double French roast......

 

[Broski]

baldilocks, There are as many ways to build a 4x4 as there are different types of 4x4 out there to build. I have to agree with eimkeith your driveline extension & coil misalignment is a moot point. As far as moving the axle foreword whether .5", .75" or or 1" is to get tire centered in the wheel well, ( coil alignment is a bonus) or if large tire are being used 37s or larger to move the tire away from the fire wall (You point this out in your build thread) and why I moved my axle forward 1" to fit the 39s.
As far as making large tire fit, 37 or larger there basically two school of thought, Old school big lift , big bump stops extensions to keep the tires out of the sheet metal & a high center of gravity or low lift and cut the sheet metal tell the tires clears modern day low center of gravity.

Now I need to get a another cup of coffee.
Looking forward to the Dusy Steve!!!
PS I have a lot more cutting and welding to do

 

[jkeithw]

Did you get your coffee? I like the double French roast......

same here

 

[baldilocks]

baldilocks, There are as many ways to build a 4x4 as there are different types of 4x4 out there to build. I have to agree with eimkeith your driveline extension & coil misalignment is a moot point. As far as moving the axle foreword whether .5", .75" or or 1" is to get tire centered in the wheel well, ( coil alignment is a bonus) or if large tire are being used 37s or larger to move the tire away from the fire wall (You point this out in your build thread) and why I moved my axle forward 1" to fit the 39s.
As far as making large tire fit, 37 or larger there basically two school of thought, Old school big lift , big bump stops extensions to keep the tires out of the sheet metal & a high center of gravity or low lift and cut the sheet metal tell the tires clears modern day low center of gravity.

Now I need to get a another cup of coffee.
Looking forward to the Dusy Steve!!!
PS I have a lot more cutting and welding to do

Tire size has been assumed at 37”. If Gary plans to go bigger then he has been holding out on us.

 

[GW Nugget]

K guys great convo going on...
Im in the big city for our 2 week shopping trip & its stupid out here, lines to get in Costco, no eggs, TP or our dog food & some other normal items... No TP in my town Coalinga.
I went by 2 sporting stores, lines around the corner assuming for ammo.

Please no comments about above subject.

As for my set up my 37 front tires compressed all the way down to my 1" bumps in the whoops hit front, top & firewall. My 2.5" drop bracket are putting my tire directly in the center at full bumps. I need to free up the friction while fully stuffed so I dont blow out another birfield. Moving the tire forward will get me away from the firewall. Thanks to brosky he found a extra inch going forward by pushing the inner front skirting forward. I am planning to go with a Patagonia 38" tire in the fall unless you guys talk me out of it.
As for Delta arms I dont have the 1K for them yet so I will be drilling a 18mm hole 1" forward on the stock frame mount & moding my MAF drop bracket to make the 1" move forward also. All that to avoid dropping to 2" bumps since I cant afford to loose any up travel. Also if you look in previous pics my front bump stops hang half way off the axle bump pads. Moving the axle forward will land it in the middle.

 

[baldilocks]

38” are more than necessary for mall crawling dude.

 

[GW Nugget]

I dont even mall crawl the Lx, its to small, we use the Honda Odyssey.

Yeah, it barley qualifies as a trail rig... it rarely gets out of Daily Duty status.

 

[GW Nugget]

Had a few days off... got a couple things knocked off the to do list for Moab...
Replaced leaking power steering hose.
Lubed drive lines & rotated tires. (Was to lazy to do it last oil change)
Mounted spare drive lines under the body.
Started clean up of a spare front long side axle shaft.
Mounted a 2gal RotoPax under the body.
Mounted a shovel on the front.
Finally installed the TEQ mirror light brackets that I've had for a few years. That was a lot off fun. It was a 4 banana job... had to take off the door panels & broke both inside beauty triangle window trims. My rig was a South West 80, all my plastic is brittle from the heat.

 

[GW Nugget]

Hey guys, how long should I be having a pissed off power steering pump?
I have been driving it a few days now after the high side hose install. Its been cycled back & forth at least 75 times. Still getting bubbles in the fluid reservoir. I do have one of those heat dissipating cooler things. Was wondering if I have air stuck in there. Maybe I should put the rig on a side incline to move the air to the inlet & outlet hose side.
Thought???

 

[Broski]

Always been able to get the air out on flat ground even with hydro assist and a aftermarket cooler. Double check all connections are tight.

 

[GW Nugget]

Well, as for checking connections I don't have any more power steering fluid leaking any more, but yeah I'll look.