Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Y no Slinky?
Good setup: 35s, 4" lift, 4.88?
- Thread starter COYS
- Start date
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COYS
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #22
I want one throat to choke and trust in Slee's experience in building great Land Cruisers. They’ve put together a complete kit for me including the billet arms.
Elephant in room is I'm new to the FJZ80 and its vendor offerings; however, I know what I want out of this truck. I desire a stock quality ride with a beastly look.
I happened to also have a chat with Yotamasters here in Socal and the rep had great things to say about the setup. They'll be installing the kit, gears, supplying the wheels/tires, and cleaning the knuckles if needed. I decided to pass on the ARB lockers.
All in, I'll be dropping off truck later this month with a transformed LC in about 7-10 days time.
Thanks, everyone!
Elephant in room is I'm new to the FJZ80 and its vendor offerings; however, I know what I want out of this truck. I desire a stock quality ride with a beastly look.
I happened to also have a chat with Yotamasters here in Socal and the rep had great things to say about the setup. They'll be installing the kit, gears, supplying the wheels/tires, and cleaning the knuckles if needed. I decided to pass on the ARB lockers.
All in, I'll be dropping off truck later this month with a transformed LC in about 7-10 days time.
Thanks, everyone!
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Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Cool. Slee does a good kit. Come to Cruise Moab in May and you can take 80 for a spin to see how the Slinky kit feels in comparison.
That is a financial mistake IMO.
The axles and diffs will already be apart for the gear swap. Now would be the time for any locker of your choice to be installed, along with a complete rebuild of all 4 corners. Suspension and tires can be done anytime, but if you're pulling down the drivetrain, now's the time.
Hi,
Please do not take this as criticisms, I am only trying to help. I have bought and rebought parts for a lot of vehicles so know from experience that a little planning can go a long way. Your build looks awesome, but if you are trying to build an off-road machine, lockers will give you more capabilities than just about anything else. If your building more of a looker/ family camping machine, you probably don’t need the billet arms. There is no right or wrong, but to the previous posters point, clarity on these points might help save you spending money twice. I knew I wanted to be able to tackle the Rubicon, Fordyce, and most trails at Moab. This is not a mini truck or my 3linked 4Runner, so Pritchett canyon and a lot of trails at Johnson balley are out. Also, I knew I want to be able to dive my truck everyday with a wife, two kids, two dogs and my gear. Hence I built to 35’s with 4.88 and Arb’s and I’ll now go part time with lower gears. So, armor was one project, lift and tires was one project, gears and lockers with new wheel bearings, seals and trunnion bearings was one project, and now lower transfer case gears and a spool are my next project.
Sorry for the long post, but my point is measured twice, cut once.
Please do not take this as criticisms, I am only trying to help. I have bought and rebought parts for a lot of vehicles so know from experience that a little planning can go a long way. Your build looks awesome, but if you are trying to build an off-road machine, lockers will give you more capabilities than just about anything else. If your building more of a looker/ family camping machine, you probably don’t need the billet arms. There is no right or wrong, but to the previous posters point, clarity on these points might help save you spending money twice. I knew I wanted to be able to tackle the Rubicon, Fordyce, and most trails at Moab. This is not a mini truck or my 3linked 4Runner, so Pritchett canyon and a lot of trails at Johnson balley are out. Also, I knew I want to be able to dive my truck everyday with a wife, two kids, two dogs and my gear. Hence I built to 35’s with 4.88 and Arb’s and I’ll now go part time with lower gears. So, armor was one project, lift and tires was one project, gears and lockers with new wheel bearings, seals and trunnion bearings was one project, and now lower transfer case gears and a spool are my next project.
Sorry for the long post, but my point is measured twice, cut once.
My .00002 cents: go straight to 37’s and definitely install lockers. Having the “tank look” without “tank go” is kinda 
.
That Slee 4” lift will make 315’s look small. I stepped up to 37’s last summer and now they even look smallish. The 80 has very large wheel openings.
.That Slee 4” lift will make 315’s look small. I stepped up to 37’s last summer and now they even look smallish. The 80 has very large wheel openings.
3” slinky stage 1 on 315’s, 4.88 with arb’s...goes everywhere I point it, although some beef on the rear link frame buckets would be mice
View attachment 1644147
Intermediate or HD rear coils?
Thoughts? 1. That's a lot of money just for the look you're seeking. 2. A smaller lift would accommodate 35's. 3. You'll never have a stock like ride again with that size of tire. 4. When you decide to sell, the truck will be worth less, not more, as a result of your changes.
COYS
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #30
My .00002 cents: go straight to 37’s and definitely install lockers. Having the “tank look” without “tank go” is kinda
That Slee 4” lift will make 315’s look small. I stepped up to 37’s last summer and now they even look smallish. The 80 has very large wheel openings.
Does this rig have a a 4" lift, you thnk?
The LX in the video appears to have a lift at or near 4”. That’s why the tires look dinky.
All 4” lifts will not render the same results. Much has to do with the spring you choose vs the weight of your vehicle. My Slee 4” HD progressives lift the rear of my 80 about 5” when unloaded. Study up, there is a months worth reading on this subject here on Mud.
All 4” lifts will not render the same results. Much has to do with the spring you choose vs the weight of your vehicle. My Slee 4” HD progressives lift the rear of my 80 about 5” when unloaded. Study up, there is a months worth reading on this subject here on Mud.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
I don't like 35's on a 10" wide wheel either. I think they look funny, besides the other issues of not holding a bead as well etc.
No way to know for sure what lift is on the truck in the video since it isn't mentioned. But Slee springs are often silver. Hard to tell in the video but the springs look black which could be OME. If OME, the truck likely has spacers. I'd say 4" sounds about right for lift height, although it doesn't "look" much different from my 3" lift.
I've had lifts on my 80s ranging from 2.5" up to about 6" and from my experience the truck behaves so much nicer at a shorter lift height. being at 3" now hasn't limited me at all on difficult trails and I daresay the truck is better at the hard stuff being lower because it's way more balanced and COG is improved.
No way to know for sure what lift is on the truck in the video since it isn't mentioned. But Slee springs are often silver. Hard to tell in the video but the springs look black which could be OME. If OME, the truck likely has spacers. I'd say 4" sounds about right for lift height, although it doesn't "look" much different from my 3" lift.
I've had lifts on my 80s ranging from 2.5" up to about 6" and from my experience the truck behaves so much nicer at a shorter lift height. being at 3" now hasn't limited me at all on difficult trails and I daresay the truck is better at the hard stuff being lower because it's way more balanced and COG is improved.
Spare is my biggest headache and only thing that prevents me from getting 37s. With 35s you don really need gears but a crawler gear is a must if you planning on anything steep or difficult. Also at least a rear locker is a must even before the 4.88.
My recommended plan of attach is as follows:
35s
Rear locker or both
Crawler gear in transfer
Then diff gears
The diff gears is really for street driving if you ask me, doesn’t improve off road ability nears as much as crawler gear because it’s only a 10% reduction vs 25%, obviously both would be nice.
My recommended plan of attach is as follows:
35s
Rear locker or both
Crawler gear in transfer
Then diff gears
The diff gears is really for street driving if you ask me, doesn’t improve off road ability nears as much as crawler gear because it’s only a 10% reduction vs 25%, obviously both would be nice.
Why not do diff gears and lockers simultaneously?? Open the diff’s once and gitrdone.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
I suppose I take a different approach. My '93 80 was on 35's and stock gears and I wheeled it for almost a decade on tons of difficult stuff with open diffs. I'm not saying anyone should stay with open diffs but I guess I don't consider a locker a "MUST" unless you really need it and those that do, know they need it. I totally agree with doing lockers at the same time as gears. It's pointless to tear into diffs and do all that work and not add a locker of some kind at the same time.
Still no crawler gear in my truck, not sure there ever will be. That's what an auto trans is for.
But happy to have 4.88's in it......and lockers. 
Still no crawler gear in my truck, not sure there ever will be. That's what an auto trans is for.
But happy to have 4.88's in it......and lockers. 
inkpot
SILVER Star
Night my rig with the 315s, 4.88s, and 4” lift and 1” spacers. Wore out the 315s as fast as possible so I could move up to 37’s on 17s.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Youve posted three different questions about that truck to the general public here but the previous owner or seller at that time is on here if you want to direct your questions to him.
2KCruiser is his handle and i bet he has some posts or a classified ad to look through. Well scratch tht looks like his classifieds have been deleted.
Agree to a degree, locker can be self installed relatively easily, gears are not....to me at least. I did only rear locker so it wasn’t worth it for me to do gears also. Plus I do enjoy my rubber over drive.
Unorthodox
I suppose I take a different approach. My '93 80 was on 35's and stock gears and I wheeled it for almost a decade on tons of difficult stuff with open diffs. I'm not saying anyone should stay with open diffs but I guess I don't consider a locker a "MUST" unless you really need it and those that do, know they need it. I totally agree with doing lockers at the same time as gears. It's pointless to tear into diffs and do all that work and not add a locker of some kind at the same time.
Still no crawler gear in my truck, not sure there ever will be. That's what an auto trans is for.
Locker and crawler gear are one of those you don’t need them till you tried it.
I only have rear and wow what a difference it made on harder stuff with axle dips, difference is night and day. I used it plenty since.
Then once I tried crawler gear I was sold! It is soooo much smoother and need for constant two pedal driving on obstacles are greatly reduced, again night and day difference how easy it can go up stuff.
If you are happy with your setup then it’s great, I was too.....until I tried locker, crawler gear etc etc.....the list just doesn’t seem to get shorter.
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