Gas tank question (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 8, 2004
Threads
27
Messages
227
Location
Gretna, NE
My FJ40 doesn't get driven as much as it should (life, kids). The tank has always been full, but the gas was about 3 years old. I always added Sta-bil to the tank when it wouldn't get driven during the winter, but can only add so much every year. I started having engine issues while driving last fall. Decided it was time to drain the tank of the old gas. The picture is the inside of the tank after I drained the fuel. The black is a sealer that someone made a poor effort to seal the tank at some point. My concern is the rust everywhere else. Its not flaking off at all. If you scratch it with your fingernail, it will come off, but takes quite a bit of effort.

Now I trying to decide what to do next. Remove the tank and take it to get cleaned and sealed better or leave it installed and add fresh gas and a new filter?

Inside fuel tank.jpg
 
I would look at just buying a new tank and being done with the problem
 
From who can you buy a new tank from?
 
The OEM tanks on almost all FJ40s I've seen where 'aluminized' externally and internally.....kind of a galvanizing. The rust tells me thats not an original...and thats not a bad thing....other than if you run standard pump gas with 10 -15% ethanal, you're going to have water....generally it only rusts the bottom of the tank. If you're running ethanal laced gas, if you just drain a quart or so every now and then from the tank drain plug, especially after a longe period of idle (like parking it for the winter)...you wont see this issue.
 
I've owned the 40 since 1997. After I got it, it was torn down and everything was gone thru and fixed. I'm almost sure this is a OEM tank, original to this cruiser. I've only used the premium gas in it. Always tried to stay away from ethanol.
 
I’d run a clear fuel filter for a day and see how much sediment is actually leaving the tank.

But yes, the long-term solution would be to buy a new tank. Cool Cruisers has a nice steel replica tank and OEM is still available. Don’t buy the poly tanks.
 
Do you have a radiator shop nearby? They may be able to flush and recondition it. I'm checking on that this week. If the price is right i may go that way or just buy another CCOT which have worked well for me in the past.
 
95% of fuel sold in the US is laced with ethanol. In our area, 75,000 residence, we have only 3 stations the sell non-ethanol fuel. They are way way out of the way so I burn the 10%. Actually, it’s not a bad thing, just be aware that water and vapor lock are potentials. In fact, on ethanol, I can dial in a few more degrees of advance and get just a tad bit better throttle response. My old F burns it just fine.
 
95% of fuel sold in the US is laced with ethanol. In our area, 75,000 residence, we have only 3 stations the sell non-ethanol fuel. They are way way out of the way so I burn the 10%. Actually, it’s not a bad thing, just be aware that water and vapor lock are potentials. In fact, on ethanol, I can dial in a few more degrees of advance and get just a tad bit better throttle response. My old F burns it just fine.

This is good to know. I just paid $3.77/gallon for a few gallons in my 79 F150. We are lucky to have 3 stations selling the pure stuff but damn its expensive. Typically i pay just over $3 but my favorite station was busy. Hell its all expensive in this valley!
 
This is good to know. I just paid $3.77/gallon for a few gallons in my 79 F150. We are lucky to have 3 stations selling the pure stuff but damn its expensive. Typically i pay just over $3 but my favorite station was busy. Hell its all expensive in this valley!

I paid $3.09 today for the high test. Every store in this valley has it.
 
Do you have a radiator shop nearby? They may be able to flush and recondition it. I'm checking on that this week. If the price is right i may go that way or just buy another CCOT which have worked well for me in the past.
I just called a radiator shop that I've taken tanks to before. He said he would have to look at it before he could give me a quote. He asked if there is a lot of rust inside and asked what a replacement tank would cost. Told him the inside has a lot of surface rust. and told him a replacement tank cost is $350. He said it would probably be cheaper just to replace the tank. $350 seems a bit high for cleaning the old tank, but maybe they don't want to take on anymore work.
 
I’d run a clear fuel filter for a day and see how much sediment is actually leaving the tank.

But yes, the long-term solution would be to buy a new tank. Cool Cruisers has a nice steel replica tank and OEM is still available. Don’t buy the poly tanks.
I already have the tank drained. The fuel that drained out was a nasty dark brown and the bottom of the bucket was filled with particles. I had a clear fuel filter installed for the last year and you could see the sediment (color) in the filter. I'll get the steel replica tank. OEM is too expensive for me right now and I know to stay away from the poly tanks.
 
I don't know the exact reason, but I've read a lot of people have problems with them.
 
From what I've read here on Mud the interior poly tanks give off fumes ??? Not a problem with my nylon rear fuel cell, especially since it is not inside the passengers compartment- - -easy deal.
 
I had a gas tank boiled out at a radiator shop earlier this year. $110. They put it in a hot lye tank for 3 days. Not sure if lye will remove the coating in your tank, so I would check that with the shop first. A new steel tank might just be best, if they are quoting you a lot more than $110-ish.
 
I bought a new tank from CCOT, and it was a good fit. We used to have a radiator shop in town that would boil the tank and place a sealer. It worked great. They, like other old school shops, closed the doors. If you have a place nearby, you may want to check them out for a cost comparison. Your tank doesnt look too bad. Mine was awful!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom