Gamiviti 200 series products & solutions

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Flocking wouldn't work for me. Just last week I picked up a 1/16" of dust on a trip to canada. With paint it wiped right off, flocking would have been a mess.
 
I powder coated it (epoxy primer layer then 2 top coats) with a satin textured finish..
(My friend owns a shop that can do this)
Mock up with mounts
(Side note… adding the other 2 holes for AMPs mounts on either side would be a good addition to the laser cut pattern)

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Got it installed this morning! Very happy with how well it fit and the coating goes great! Just how I envisioned it. No more cell phones in cupholders or laying up against the odometer. Thanks again for the awesome product!!!

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I powder coated it (epoxy primer layer then 2 top coats) with a satin textured finish..
(My friend owns a shop that can do this)
Mock up with mounts
(Side note… adding the other 2 holes for AMPs mounts on either side would be a good addition to the laser cut pattern)

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You basically read my mind with what I planned to do with this great product. You mind sharing the type of charge ports and the 67 designs balls? I like how you did both USB and USB C split on two sides. And three mounting balls is plenty. Once I install this I don’t plan to change it up. And this set up is very versatile.
 
Sure..
USB ( I have not tested them yet... just an FYI) Amazon product ASIN B091CSCH6M67 Designs . AMPS mounts - they have a diamond alternative plate that is compatible with the pre-drilled holes In the plate (2 hole) otherwise you need to drill 2 additional holes for the AMPs plate. AMPS Plate - https://www.67d.com/collections/bases/products/amps-plate
Device holders are the universal phone holder G2.. Universal for Phones Device Holder G2 - https://www.67d.com/collections/holders/products/universal-aluminum-squeeze-device-holder-for-android-ios-and-other-devices
its a bit complicated to buy since they are a very small company but totally worth it - totally one hand operation and rock solid off road..
the arms use 2 clamps which is much better than the single clamp on the Ram Mounts IMHO..
 
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I'd be interested to see if those flat panel USBs produce the claimed output. Pretty skinny plate (and wires) to handle the advertised dual 2.1A.

Is there room for two conventional 12v cig ports next to the speaker (2013)? Wondering if it wouldn't be better to go with a socket and insert something like an Anker dual 2.4A that has a reputable output. Would give flexibility to run different USB port sizes too by just swapping the adapter. Also, some legacy devices (i.e. my Delorme InReach) have cords with a 12V port plug.
 
You would have to drill/cut the speaker mount plate that is under there.. trying this before I go that way…
My Prefered usb socket is this one but it is fairly long
 
Sure..
USB ( I have not tested them yet... just an FYI) Amazon product ASIN B091CSCH6M67 Designs . AMPS mounts - they have a diamond alternative plate that is compatible with the pre-drilled holes In the plate (2 hole) otherwise you need to drill 2 additional holes for the AMPs plate. AMPS Plate - https://www.67d.com/collections/bases/products/amps-plate
Device holders are the universal phone holder G2.. Universal for Phones Device Holder G2 - https://www.67d.com/collections/holders/products/universal-aluminum-squeeze-device-holder-for-android-ios-and-other-devices
its a bit complicated to buy since they are a very small company but totally worth it - totally one hand operation and rock solid off road..
the arms use 2 clamps which is much better than the single clamp on the Ram Mounts IMHO..
Awesome thanks! I agree. Price a little higher for 67 designs but incredibly well built.
 
lots of options.. I was trying to stay flush mount but hopefully the amazon sockets work enough for an iPad on USB-C... we shall see
the powerwerx socket I posted can charge my Mac.. abet a little slowly @36w
 
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I'd be interested to see if those flat panel USBs produce the claimed output. Pretty skinny plate (and wires) to handle the advertised dual 2.1A.
Surprisingly close to the stated 2.1amps...

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Charging the ipad it'll hover between 1.95 and 2.05, and right around 5.1 volts. So figure with 2 devices double that.... add a little more for safety margin, and that's why I ran a wire from the battery rather than tapping the factory harness, discussed in the other concurrent thread about this Switched 12v source behind radio - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/switched-12v-source-behind-radio.1289254/
 
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@nakman Thanks for the data point. I'm surprised. Those look like 18ga wires and not enough space to have a robust power circuit.
 
@nakman Thanks for the data point. I'm surprised. Those look like 18ga wires and not enough space to have a robust power circuit.
Those wires are carrying 12v, so less than 1amp needed to provide the 10w shown on the ammeter.
 
View attachment 3066067

I'd be interested to see if those flat panel USBs produce the claimed output. Pretty skinny plate (and wires) to handle the advertised dual 2.1A.

Is there room for two conventional 12v cig ports next to the speaker (2013)? Wondering if it wouldn't be better to go with a socket and insert something like an Anker dual 2.4A that has a reputable output. Would give flexibility to run different USB port sizes too by just swapping the adapter. Also, some legacy devices (i.e. my Delorme InReach) have cords with a 12V port plug.
What is the procedure to test them? I'll do it if I can.

Only anecdotal, I've been running an iPad mini, iPhone, Dual GPS puck and Garmin inReach mini on the two I installed (pretty much nonstop for the last few weeks), and they work as expected.
 
After months of delay (due to my other projects and life), I finally had time over the weekend to install this. Overall, solid piece of accessories! It make the cruiser much more utilized. Retrospectively, I would have drill holes on the plastic piece below the mounting screws for the usb hubs so that I can unmount and swap out the usb plugs with more updated tech (usb C in the future). I’ll probably do that when I need to switch them to usb C. Potential adding a relay in the engine bay tie to a switched circuit via tap-a-fuse if this shows excessive drain on the second batt. Excellent product as always Tim. @nakman
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After making use of the rail for a few days, I'm finding that the lever action of the RAM arms tends to very easily partially unscrew the ball which makes the mount a bit less solid. Unless I'm missing something obvious - I'm just hand tightening them. So I'm probably going to switch away from the rail and go with a pair of the fixed mounts instead (one on the left, one on the right). The 16" Tesla style head unit I installed sticks up above the rail, so a center mount wouldn't really be useful and I'm not seeing any need, in my case, to be able to adjust the horizontal mounting point of the arms.

The 67 Designs products that another poster referenced impressed me, so I've ordered the mounts, arms, and adapters so I can mix and match RAM 1" parts, allowing me to use my existing Rokform mount.

I'm probably also going to install at least 1 power option up there so that when I have my cell phone mounted, I'll have a convenient way to give it power without cables running everywhere.

I'm actually glad I didn't get around to painting / covering the panel before my trip as it's giving me the opportunity to test things out and end up closer to what will be my final solution which should minimize damaging the covering by drilling new holes or installing different components.
 
I've used the track in other vehicles and you definitely need to use a mechanical assist to prevent loosening. Unless your name is Igor. Or you're 'Manhands' from Seinfeld.

You can cheat by using one of the arms and clamping down hard then rotating past your desired position. Then loosen, reposition, and repeat as required to get it to snug up completely.
 
That is basically why I went away from the RAM mounts, both the mounts themselves becoming loose and the arms, since they typically only use one clamp set screw per arm (plastic or aluminum). The 67 Designs ones use 2 clamps per arm, and the balls use typically 3 set screws.. Figured this out in my defender which is a bit rougher of a ride.
I am surface mounting two pwerwerx sockets (USB/C each)... my iPad Pro when running Gaia in tracking mode is a bit of a power hog, so I've found USB-C works the best.
This will be run a switch power via a 20ah relay, with 12g wire.. which is overkill but I am also use it for other stuff as needed since I will have the head room.
 

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