Second time doing this job in last few years - took 30 min start to finish and no major hiccups woop woop
Steering Flush & Cleaning
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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foolforthecity
SILVER Star
I just did this a few weeks ago and mine whined like a stuck pig until I fully bled the system. Did you sufficiently bleed?
I believe so, I’m going to try again this weekend with another quart and check back.
Tried bleeding system again, still whines at low rpm/idle, vibrates through the chassis. I’ll check back in a month.
Power steering fluid exchange is pretty simple and straightforward… it is very common to introduce micro bubbles into the new power steering fluid during the fluid exchange… and as such, a small amount of power steering pump whine or cavitation is to be expected upon completion of the task. However, All micro bubbles should dissipate by the following morning, and you can demonstrate this by running the vehicle and note that there is no noise from the power steering pump.
Forgive me, but it seems that you are describing power steering pump whine and vibration through the chassis. And this reported problem is over a week after your power steering fluid exchange. Is that correct?
If so, I would stop using that vehicle until you figure it out. Cavitation in the pump can only lead to damage that would require pump rebuild or replacement. Possibly caused by air leak leaking in to the system through loose fittings at the pump… or issues with the steering rack seals or fittings?
And “vibrates through the chassis”… I’m not sure what to make of that. Extremely unlikely that it is power steering related, but not impossible… and if it is power steering related, it sounds like you may be looking at imminent failure of something very expensive, very soon.
Are you sure you don’t have an idler pulley, or alternator that is whining? Just guessing at this point.
Perhaps if you could concisely describe exactly what’s going on here, the community could better assist you.
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- Thread starter
- #327
So you had a whine before and after flush & cleaning?
How long has whine been going on?
Are you sure, it's your vane pump whining? Mechanics stethoscope, can help isolate.
Turning steering wheel hearing pitch change, is a clue. But turning steering wheel, also puts more load on Drive Belt (AKA: serpentine belt, fan belt). Which it (belt) and other pulley's bearings, also get loaded. A pitch change can also be heard from them.
A/C clutch or compress bearing. Is A/C on or off, change in pitch.
Alternators will often whine, shortly before failure. This is more common when front undershield missing. Or after deep water crossing.
Removing serp belt and spinning each pulley by hand, yields more clues.
Fan bracket bearing so bad, pulley can be seen wobbling, can be felt in chassis. Sometimes this are miss diagnose as engine knock.
A bad vacuum leak, may sound like a whine. Engine will run poorly and can be felt through chassis.
PCV valve, can also whine.
Vane pump:
I've never seen a vane pump so bad vibration felt through chassis.
I've never seen a bad vane pump, not leak. Not saying it can't happen. But would be rare.
I've seen many reservoir, so stained inside. They look as if at proper level. When actually empty. We place a light behind reservoir, to reveal true level.
Did you clean the inside of reservoir. Getting all gunk from bottom and screen clean.
Did you turn steering well lock to lock 3 times, engine off front tires off the ground. Holding at lock ( steering wheel turn until stops), for at least 10 seconds.
Then make sure no bubbles in fluid as you turn lock to lock.
Then lower vehicle to ground, start engine, turn lock to lock 3 times hold at lock 10 sec.
Then make sure no bubbles in fluid as you turn lock to lock.
Bad serp belt tensioner & idler bearings
With serp belt off, start engine. If whine still present, may be timing belt pulley or water pump.
Fan bracket bearing so bad, pulley can be seen wobbling,
How long has whine been going on?
Are you sure, it's your vane pump whining? Mechanics stethoscope, can help isolate.
Turning steering wheel hearing pitch change, is a clue. But turning steering wheel, also puts more load on Drive Belt (AKA: serpentine belt, fan belt). Which it (belt) and other pulley's bearings, also get loaded. A pitch change can also be heard from them.
A/C clutch or compress bearing. Is A/C on or off, change in pitch.
Alternators will often whine, shortly before failure. This is more common when front undershield missing. Or after deep water crossing.
Removing serp belt and spinning each pulley by hand, yields more clues.
Fan bracket bearing so bad, pulley can be seen wobbling, can be felt in chassis. Sometimes this are miss diagnose as engine knock.
A bad vacuum leak, may sound like a whine. Engine will run poorly and can be felt through chassis.
PCV valve, can also whine.
Vane pump:
I've never seen a vane pump so bad vibration felt through chassis.
I've never seen a bad vane pump, not leak. Not saying it can't happen. But would be rare.
I've seen many reservoir, so stained inside. They look as if at proper level. When actually empty. We place a light behind reservoir, to reveal true level.
Did you clean the inside of reservoir. Getting all gunk from bottom and screen clean.
Did you turn steering well lock to lock 3 times, engine off front tires off the ground. Holding at lock ( steering wheel turn until stops), for at least 10 seconds.
Then make sure no bubbles in fluid as you turn lock to lock.
Then lower vehicle to ground, start engine, turn lock to lock 3 times hold at lock 10 sec.
Then make sure no bubbles in fluid as you turn lock to lock.
Bad serp belt tensioner & idler bearings
With serp belt off, start engine. If whine still present, may be timing belt pulley or water pump.
Fan bracket bearing so bad, pulley can be seen wobbling,
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Sorry for not responding sooner to you both. Excellent incite and very helpful information.
I followed the PS flush very throughly. The only thing I missed was turning the wheel fully at the locks when the car was lowered and running, multiple times. This definitely brought more air out of the system. However the noise was still present, and loud.
I kept driving for a few more days, then all of a sudden the lights and power inside the vehicle started to flicker, eventually shutting the car off. Luckily I was right by my residence! Just my luck…
So I had another thought, as you both have mentioned. I purchased a $7 stethoscope. Jump the car, run it and listen. Power steering pump was loud. Then I hit the alternator. Boom, that’s it!
Turns out both my steering rack boots are cracked and weeping too. This truck is the gift that keeps on giving.
I followed the PS flush very throughly. The only thing I missed was turning the wheel fully at the locks when the car was lowered and running, multiple times. This definitely brought more air out of the system. However the noise was still present, and loud.
I kept driving for a few more days, then all of a sudden the lights and power inside the vehicle started to flicker, eventually shutting the car off. Luckily I was right by my residence! Just my luck…
So I had another thought, as you both have mentioned. I purchased a $7 stethoscope. Jump the car, run it and listen. Power steering pump was loud. Then I hit the alternator. Boom, that’s it!
Turns out both my steering rack boots are cracked and weeping too. This truck is the gift that keeps on giving.
Finally isolated my PS leak after a few flushes, cleaning areas around PS pump, and hoses associated.
When I found and bought the truck out of TX, I had the mechanic who did a 3rd party inspection replace the R/P & tie rods, due to the seals and whatnot being shot. He also replaced steering intermediate drive shaft.
While driving the truck home back to CT I didn’t understand how the truck didn’t like the almighty Land Cruisers that we know…!
With that said the 3rd party inspection mechanic did basic maintenance to the TLC (oil, coolant, P/S fluid (wrong kind), battery, heater t’s, AHC fluid & 4 globes, and some other things). The TLC made the trip without incident.
It wasn’t until I got back to CT and realized the leaks I was having. It seemed like it was leaking around EVERY connection related to the P/S…
Also, I found a loose mounting bolt (1 of 3) on the PS pump. Easy fix.
During the last 2 months I was really concerned that the new R/P and alternator would get damaged due to all the leaking fluid and wrong fluid in the system. So I did numerous P/S flushes but I didn’t use synthetic until I knew where the leak was coming from…. I got lucky that the R/P didn’t get F’d up. BUT the alternator did. I blame the ATF fluid constantly leaking into and on the alternator for shortening its lifespan…. (My 07’ has 155k on the clock) it could have been at end of its life but I think PS leak killed it…..
Nonetheless, once I was able to isolate that it wasn’t the hoses, and I replaced of the PS hose clamps w/OEM new ones. Also, i had to do a bunch of clean up w/degreaser, simple green, etc. to isolate where the leak was. It was then easy to see the leak was surrounding the P/S pump.
So, I ordered and installed new OEM vane pump assembly ($340) and decided to the Valvoline Max life ATF (full synthetic) due to Mobile 1 availability and price. Valvoline was ($25) for a gallon.
4 hrs later w/ a new pump, and other parts listed above the TLC SHOULD drive the way a TLC should. I did notice a huge difference at the wheel after filling it fresh synthetic ATF…. So super pumped about the fix and look forward to driving it tomorrow with new install.
Just want to say thank you to everyone who has shared their input and wisdom. It has given me the confidence to be wrenching on the Cruiser. Which is now my second favorite thing to do with my pants on.
When I found and bought the truck out of TX, I had the mechanic who did a 3rd party inspection replace the R/P & tie rods, due to the seals and whatnot being shot. He also replaced steering intermediate drive shaft.
While driving the truck home back to CT I didn’t understand how the truck didn’t like the almighty Land Cruisers that we know…!
With that said the 3rd party inspection mechanic did basic maintenance to the TLC (oil, coolant, P/S fluid (wrong kind), battery, heater t’s, AHC fluid & 4 globes, and some other things). The TLC made the trip without incident.
It wasn’t until I got back to CT and realized the leaks I was having. It seemed like it was leaking around EVERY connection related to the P/S…
Also, I found a loose mounting bolt (1 of 3) on the PS pump. Easy fix.
During the last 2 months I was really concerned that the new R/P and alternator would get damaged due to all the leaking fluid and wrong fluid in the system. So I did numerous P/S flushes but I didn’t use synthetic until I knew where the leak was coming from…. I got lucky that the R/P didn’t get F’d up. BUT the alternator did. I blame the ATF fluid constantly leaking into and on the alternator for shortening its lifespan…. (My 07’ has 155k on the clock) it could have been at end of its life but I think PS leak killed it…..
Nonetheless, once I was able to isolate that it wasn’t the hoses, and I replaced of the PS hose clamps w/OEM new ones. Also, i had to do a bunch of clean up w/degreaser, simple green, etc. to isolate where the leak was. It was then easy to see the leak was surrounding the P/S pump.
So, I ordered and installed new OEM vane pump assembly ($340) and decided to the Valvoline Max life ATF (full synthetic) due to Mobile 1 availability and price. Valvoline was ($25) for a gallon.
4 hrs later w/ a new pump, and other parts listed above the TLC SHOULD drive the way a TLC should. I did notice a huge difference at the wheel after filling it fresh synthetic ATF…. So super pumped about the fix and look forward to driving it tomorrow with new install.
Just want to say thank you to everyone who has shared their input and wisdom. It has given me the confidence to be wrenching on the Cruiser. Which is now my second favorite thing to do with my pants on.
- Thread starter
- #330
PS vane pumps, torque is 13ft-lbf. Don't over torque, its 3 mounting bolts.
Sign of a bad vane pump. Is leak from front seal. They can be very bad leaks. They will leak from around the shaft in front. We'll see they area around shaft wet and very wet from shaft down.
Most vane pumps, that are wet from a fluid leak:
Sign of a bad vane pump. Is leak from front seal. They can be very bad leaks. They will leak from around the shaft in front. We'll see they area around shaft wet and very wet from shaft down.
Most vane pumps, that are wet from a fluid leak:
- Is from suction hose. I replace a lot of them, using only OEM clamps.
- Some leak, from high pressure line banjo gasket. I've only see HP banjo fitting gasket leaks. On ones, not factory installed (serviced) or gasket (washers) not replace during R&R and or not torqued to spec.
- Idle up control valve threads. On non OEM replacement HP line.
- Bad vane pump. Front bearing and seal, are shot. Not regular flushing with ATF, reduce the bearing life.
- Idle up control valve itself. This leak is often unseen. Vacuum, draws ATF, into air pipe.