FT Diff - Check your nuts (2 Viewers)

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That should be on the occasional torque check list. If the gasket is ditched and the diff is installed with Permatex Gray, the nuts almost never come loose and leaks are greatly reduced.
Yes sir, my original open diff, now packed with ARB, is sealed with grey permetex and standard torque on the standard hardware for nearly 4 years now and nary a leak after much bashing and grinding.

Edit: I do regular torque checks on all critical hardware.
 
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Yes sir, my original open diff, now packed with ARB, is sealed with grey permetex and standard torque on the standard hardware for nearly 4 years now and nary a leak after much bashing and grinding.
so doing a full tear down of the front axle is a good alternative, got it.
 
so doing a full tear down of the front axle is a good alternative, got it.
Simply confirming someone else’s truth so the new comers don't read this and think they need to “upgrade” there third member attaching hardware.
 
Curious as a relatively new owner is the locked front third subject to similar issues?
 
Curious as a relatively new owner is the locked front third subject to similar issues?
i never had an issue with my front locked 3rd on my first truck. And to be honest i'm not sure how compatable this kit would be.

There are 3 different length studs in the kit so the the lengths for an e-locker diff could be different.
 
Simply confirming someone else’s truth so the new comers don't read this and think they need to “upgrade” there third member attaching hardware.
I personally wasn't aware of the potential problem before i experienced it out on the trail at Moab. If I had known I sure as hell would have done something in an effort to avoid that situation 1000s of mikes fron home.

But your right, nobody has to do this mod or even take any counter steps at all.
 
It's only the front 80 diff that has this problem, but it's very, very common. I think the 8mm studs just are not up to the task. Or maybe there's some strange torque forces with the high pinion diff.

Anyway, check them every oil change, and I doubt you'll have further problems. And I got rid of the paper gasket up front too and went to the FPIG.
All the 8" thirds have the same issue especially if you wheel it. The mini trucks & 4runners run the same 8" third front & rear they have the same issue with just the front. It's happened a couple of time on my reg. Now it on my list of pre-trail run inspection and tighten, along with with the knuckle bolts.
 
So here is the documentation that I prepared for the kits. Figured I'd post it here for people to review and see if there needs to be any clarification. And also use it to source your own parts if you want.

edit: updated document
 

Attachments

  • Stud replacement for 80 series front differential.pdf
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Curious as a relatively new owner is the locked front third subject to similar issues?
Only if you use the locker, In the rock crawling group I hang out with (Mostly mini's) it is thought the the flexing and banging of the axle causes the hardware to loosen regardless if you use the paper gasket or not. In each case mine came lose it was right after I beat the crap out of it.
I end up going through My front Axle each season next time I well most likely use the Wits'end Kit at that point if there one for the locking Axle.
 
So I've spent some more time looking into this and we'll be offering a locked kit as well. However the longer 110mm studs used in the install of a locked differential will not be included. I just couldn't find any.

The locked kit will include 11 nuts and 9 studs. I'll be able to map their location as I did for the open diff.

From what I can tell all 8" open and locked axles take the same hardware as their counterparts in the 80 series. But I will not be able to map their location as I don't have access to that info.

Price for either kit will be that same and available soon.
 
So I have updated the above document and a single kit will be offered to cover either an open diff or a locked diff.

If using on an open diff there will be 1 nut left over and if used on a locked diff there will be one stud left over.

Should have 18 or more kits available by the end of the week.
 
I wish I had found this thread this morning before I ordered up OEM studs, lock washers and nuts. I may just have to get this too and keep the OEM as spares. I had the paper gasket and FIPG in my harrop loaded front diff. After 2 weeks of pounding the rig through SE Utah and on HITR my nuts all loosened and blew the gasket out. I need to tear down the axle to rebuild before the next trip.
 
I wish I had found this thread this morning before I ordered up OEM studs, lock washers and nuts. I may just have to get this too and keep the OEM as spares. I had the paper gasket and FIPG in my harrop loaded front diff. After 2 weeks of pounding the rig through SE Utah and on HITR my nuts all loosened and blew the gasket out. I need to tear down the axle to rebuild before the next trip.

I'm working on the link now... :p
 
I've been working on my front and rear diff. I am at the point of reattaching my front and rear 3rd member to the axel. Before I do I need to replace the studs since some of the studs have damaged threads.

@landtank @NLXTACY it looks like y'all no longer offer the kits on either site. Any recs on sourcing these parts?
 
Why wouldn't you replace damaged studs? They're available from any Toyota dealer or online for about $0.65.

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I've been working on my front and rear diff. I am at the point of reattaching my front and rear 3rd member to the axel. Before I do I need to replace the studs since some of the studs have damaged threads.

@landtank @NLXTACY it looks like y'all no longer offer the kits on either site. Any recs on sourcing these parts?
kits are available on my web site for the front. I could offer the rear just haven't thought about it.
 

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