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- #21
excuse me for knowing where my pumkin is from the driver's seat.
FT Diff - Check your nuts (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter landtank
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excuse me for knowing where my pumkin is from the driver's seat.
Tell that to shannon campbell
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- #23
@LandCruiserPhil How long ago did you do that?
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- #24
sorry, don't know the reference
15 minutes ago
I buy tons of the exact hardware used in 1/2 of our products so its on the shelf in bulk.
The rating for all my hardware- JIS Serrated Hex Flange Nuts Class 10.9 small head zinc coated J.I.S B1190
He is a race car man
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He was referring to damage on a rig that is wheeled often and relatively aggressively, so obviously doesn't apply in this case.
With stress, the gasket crushes, causing the hardware tension to to be reduced, likely without turning. The root of the problem isn't hardware, remove the gasket and the stock hardware stays tight.
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- #28
I understood his original post and the childish response of yours, just not the name.
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- #29
15 minutes ago
I buy tons of the exact hardware used in 1/2 of our products so its on the shelf in bulk.
The rating for all my hardware- JIS Serrated Hex Flange Nuts Class 10.9 small head zinc coated J.I.S B1190
LOL, thought I had missed something and you might have some long term data.
Nope just following your lead because it was on the shelf on easy.
FWIW - None of my factory nuts/bolts seemed loose and my carrier has never been removed.
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Whatever, this is typically what axles we work on look like, the stresses differ from those the are more casually used.
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This isn't new, has been going on as long as straight axle Toyotas have been wheeled. Not epidemic, but it happens often enough and is a pain to fix, so doing the most proven fix is productive.
The 9" diffs were first to go to 10mm hardware and the higher torque, helped with the problem, now most of the smaller diffs have them. The thought was, increase the torque, this caused fastener problems, stripped housings. So went to bolts from inside the housing, solved the housing thread problem, but is weaker, still gasket issues. All types of locks, glue the fasteners, etc, fail. Tossing the gasket and gluing the diff directly to the housing has proven to be the most reliable method.
The 9" diffs were first to go to 10mm hardware and the higher torque, helped with the problem, now most of the smaller diffs have them. The thought was, increase the torque, this caused fastener problems, stripped housings. So went to bolts from inside the housing, solved the housing thread problem, but is weaker, still gasket issues. All types of locks, glue the fasteners, etc, fail. Tossing the gasket and gluing the diff directly to the housing has proven to be the most reliable method.
I am defiantly going to try the flange nuts. I have experienced this issue and periodically have to re-torque. I always thought it may be due to some drive shaft vibes in the front. Also, I am on a paper gasket after I pulled the diff to install ARB's about 8 years ago.
davidp14
SILVER Star
Geez.
I seem to have a wits end box at my door about once a week lately.
I guess it won't be stopping any time soon.
Thanks for the tip land tank.
A little embarrassing, but I never really knew what "check your nuts" meant....still learning.
I seem to have a wits end box at my door about once a week lately.
I guess it won't be stopping any time soon.
Thanks for the tip land tank.
A little embarrassing, but I never really knew what "check your nuts" meant....still learning.
I still blame richard for whatever happened to those ring gear bolts. And I gave him a bribe to give to you so that you agree. Hope you like itWhatever, this is typically what axles we work on look like, the stresses differ from those the are more casually used.
Anyone have the torque numbers handy for front and rear for the nuts you're referencing? Thanks.
20ft/lbs front
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Front 20ft/lb, rear 54ft/lb.
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When would that be a bad idea, like never!
Maybe someday that slacker will bring it?
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- #40
So back at this. I ended up concluding that the root cause for the nuts loosening was primarily the studs them selves and when under stress would stretch slightly.
I never had an issue with my e-locker diff but that has more studs securing it in place.
So between the fact that an open diff only has 10 studs and once I installed an auto locker in place the additional stress applied caused the failure.
The stock studs are an 8.8 which is consistent with a grade 5 which means general use hardware.
I have found the appropriate studs for length in a class 10.9 to match with the serrated flange nuts which are also a class 10.9 or a grade 8 equivalent.
However sourcing quantities of these studs at this time is a challenge. It's possible that over time it might improve but I can't say.
Wits end will shortly have a few kits available along with a detailed guide on how to swap the studs and nuts over without draining the diff fluid.
Some might be shocked at the cost but it is what it is.
I never had an issue with my e-locker diff but that has more studs securing it in place.
So between the fact that an open diff only has 10 studs and once I installed an auto locker in place the additional stress applied caused the failure.
The stock studs are an 8.8 which is consistent with a grade 5 which means general use hardware.
I have found the appropriate studs for length in a class 10.9 to match with the serrated flange nuts which are also a class 10.9 or a grade 8 equivalent.
However sourcing quantities of these studs at this time is a challenge. It's possible that over time it might improve but I can't say.
Wits end will shortly have a few kits available along with a detailed guide on how to swap the studs and nuts over without draining the diff fluid.
Some might be shocked at the cost but it is what it is.
