Front Right Wheel Grinding

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The knuckles need a reseal job. If it's being driven, the more immediate need is lube, leaking seals will make a mess, but insufficient lube will destroy parts. If it needs to be driven, I would put a tube of moly grease in each side and see what that does, may need more. Also check the diff fluid for contamination.

Great info. Thank you!

I am fortunate to have a car to drive as well. So my wife any I are car pooling.

I was referred to a great mechanic in town that actually has a 70 series of his own and is very familiar with these. He is booked out a few weeks, but was nice enough to arrange a time to come look at it.
 
if that passenger birf is absolutely dry, then that could be creating some time of grinding noise.
In any case, pop some moly in both birfs ;) check level with a zip tie. I think half full is the mark - but do your research.

Youtube videos.... here i come!
I am a big fan of this forum and really appreciate all of the info from everyone.
 
Search the forums and youtube for "knuckle rebuild" and you should find lots of information. There is an entire grease thread on what grease to use for repacking the knuckles. A forum search for "grease" should find it. It took me about 16 hours to do both front knuckles start to finish. Get lots of nitrile gloves and about 12 rolls of paper towels. I think I used 8 tubes of Palladium grease from Valvoline. If you have any questions post them up here. This is a great group and welcome to the suck. I hope you don't like money.

Thanks for the detailed info!
I had the engine pulled rebuilt when I got the truck. it has 396,xxx miles on the drive train so I fully expect to work my way through rebuilding/replacing many of these components. good news is that I will have a new truck when I am done. Bad news, as you so kindly stated, it will burn through some serious cash. So long as I can keep one vacation a year in the budget, momma wont be too upset :D
 
Crap, Im so in your boat. But you saved me time by going through it first! So I have that going. When I get home I'll post some pics of my troubles and just piggyback your thread. Im slinging fluid on the passenger side even on the outside of the tire, but both knuckles are leaking. No mechanical failures yet or sounds of grinding, just a mess.
 
Crap, Im so in your boat. But you saved me time by going through it first! So I have that going. When I get home I'll post some pics of my troubles and just piggyback your thread. Im slinging fluid on the passenger side even on the outside of the tire, but both knuckles are leaking. No mechanical failures yet or sounds of grinding, just a mess.

Thats no good!
I am hoping I cought mine early enough that i didnt detonate anythign major... but 396k is a LOT of miles....
 
Fortunately (or unfortunately depending on perspective) I dont have lockers in this rig. So I am hoping that will keep replacement part costs down.

Locked or not, the kit is the same.
 
Can't remember if this was mentioned yet, but the heat shields can warp and make grinding noises. Specially if temp changed dramatically and you are driving in mountains with a lot of brake useage. If that is the case, a long screwdriver pushing the shields back out does the trick.
 
Can't remember if this was mentioned yet, but the heat shields can warp and make grinding noises. Specially if temp changed dramatically and you are driving in mountains with a lot of brake useage. If that is the case, a long screwdriver pushing the shields back out does the trick.

It was not mentioned specifically, but I had looked at it to see if there was a rock trapped in there. This was just easy highway driving and little braking. So they should not have even been worm.

Thanks for the info!
 
Thats no good!
I am hoping I cought mine early enough that i didnt detonate anythign major... but 396k is a LOT of miles....
Just a guess, but with 396K miles on your truck, I'd bet someone has already been into your front axle at least once, if not more. I just helped my friend do a complete overhaul on his front axle, it's not hard to do. One thing i will tell you, is to order a complete kit from Cruiser Parts like what "Toys are us" said. With that many miles, you should plan on replacing all the bearings, so it will run you a little over 200 bucks for all the hard parts. Oh one more thing, before you start this job, go by Sams Club first, and buy the economy size 24 pack of paper towels, trust me you'll need them!
 
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Just a follow up for everyone who contributed here. I worked with my mechanic and rebuilt the front axle.
grinding noise was the inner bearing on the right side and the axle seal on the left side was shot.
Rebuilt with Trailgear kit and Marlin Crawlers seals.
Thank you all for the input.
 
Looks like that shock is blown out with all the oil on the shock body.
 
I bought it a few months back. it had a warped head so I had the whole motor rebuilt.
It is a single owner rig that has always been dealer serviced with the same service writer.
so far I have the engine done, the front axle rebuilt, the u-joints done, the lead arm bushings were replaced and a new set of tires.

The fluids were changed in the rear diff and the transfer case when the motor was done. I want to have the trans gone through to be sure it is tip top; but it shifts like a dream so I am in no hurry for that.

I am on the books for a complete tie rod and drag link in two weeks.

once the suspension and drive train are gone through this will be a brand new rig.

400k! Wahoo!! Any major engine work?
 
I bought it a few months back. it had a warped head so I had the whole motor rebuilt.
It is a single owner rig that has always been dealer serviced with the same service writer.
so far I have the engine done, the front axle rebuilt, the u-joints done, the lead arm bushings were replaced and a new set of tires.

The fluids were changed in the rear diff and the transfer case when the motor was done. I want to have the trans gone through to be sure it is tip top; but it shifts like a dream so I am in no hurry for that.

I am on the books for a complete tie rod and drag link in two weeks.

once the suspension and drive train are gone through this will be a brand new rig.
I hope you put a new radiator in it and preferably a complete cooling system over haul. The head was warped for a reason.
 
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