From Rust-Free to Rust Belt (1962 FST Restoration) (1 Viewer)

[fjfjfj]

Are you going with Lily White?

Splangy,,,,,,,,,,Not sure if you decided to stick with your original Lily White but I was in the same situation you are in. I decided to go with the original Lily White and am really really glad I did. The color combo with Black, Coral, Chrome, Spanish Maroon lettering, Cad, Yellow and Off White bezel and Roof turns out to be a really cool Japanese color combo. Just put my seats in yesterday. Here are a few pics so you can see the combo colors. Good luck with yours. Very cool you got a rust free cruiser. Not sure if the white under your primer was the original white but if not let me know and I will send you the Lily White code that was custom made from my white ( which was the original white and well perserved, very accurate ). Glad to assist. Adios, FJFJFJ

 

[fjfjfj]

Two Lily White colors.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...ed-fjfjfj-1962-fj40-44k-original-miles-7.html

Splangy,,,,,,,,,,above is the page that lists my Lily White code 403 info with formula. You most likely already know this but my research showed that Toyota had TWO Lily White colors back in 1962 but only one code. They were different, one kind of an off white ( mine ) and one kind of a sandy colored white, more tan. The formula mentioned above in my link is my Off White. You will scroll down and see the formula info from Temecula Valley Paint Company.

 

[Splangy]

Schweet!!!! Nice work! Can I come over and drool on it?

Sure, just bring your tools!

Very nice!!! Did you use the old fittings?

No, bought all new tube and 9mm nuts from Brakequip. The tubing is their easy-bend steel tubing. It's got a copper hue to it and I'm assuming it's because there's probably a bit of copper in it to give it it's flexibility. The stuff is easy to bend with your hands without being too soft like copper. You can make really tight radiuses without crimping, too.

Didn't FJ25's have copper brake lines? If so, this would make a great substitute. It almost has the look of copper, but the strength of steel.

I could have just bought pre-bent lines from Classic Tube for a few bucks more, but then I wouldn't have the cool flaring tool in the garage! You really gotta use this thing to believe it!


Now to find a source for 9mm hoses besides $OR. I picked up the 90947-02006 hoses thinking they were the right size, but they appear to be M10 at each end. Bummer.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Sure, just bring your tools!



No, bought all new tube and 9mm nuts from Brakequip. The tubing is their easy-bend steel tubing. It's got a copper hue to it and I'm assuming it's because there's probably a bit of copper in it to give it it's flexibility. The stuff is easy to bend with your hands without being too soft like copper. You can make really tight radiuses without crimping, too.

Didn't FJ25's have copper brake lines? If so, this would make a great substitute. It almost has the look of copper, but the strength of steel.

I could have just bought pre-bent lines from Classic Tube for a few bucks more, but then I wouldn't have the cool flaring tool in the garage! You really gotta use this thing to believe it!


Now to find a source for 9mm hoses besides $OR. I picked up the 90947-02006 hoses thinking they were the right size, but they appear to be M10 at each end. Bummer.

Very cool info!!

I think Mark use to have a handle on those hoses...going to call him and see if he still does...I want to replace my three as well.

The problem for me with going with Classic Tube, is the freaken shipping!!! Those big boxes are quite expensive to cross the border...and that is besides the price of the tubes themselves!!

Now that you've got the tool, you can make lines for the rest of us, and make some money back a little at a time

 

[Splangy]

I was getting ready to bring the head down to the machine shop and realized the the brand new Toyota valve grind gasket kit doesn't come with valve stem seals. That seems a bit odd to me. Luckily, I found an old set here. At least, I think I did. I've never had one of these f135's apart before, so I'm not sure if these are right. The flatter, tapered, o-rings appear to be correct, but there's only 6 of them in the bag. Also in the bag are 6 regular o-rings. Did the intake and exhaust valves use different seals? I can't find any reference to them here on mud or in my FSM's.

 

[Living in the Past]

Curious wasn't the valve stem seals that needed to be changed when they did away with leaded gas? Something about the lead in the gas that lubed the seals. If I found a NOS seals I would want to make sure they were okay for unleaded gas. I have a few old OEM head gasket kits. Would have to check what is all in them. Don't remember the valve steml seals, just round O ring gasket for the valve cover bolt holes.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

I believe they are all the tapered type, flat side on the bottom so the oil hopefully drops off.

I wouldn't bother with them, and convert to umbrella seals. You'll need to change the springs, or just pull the inner spring if you're not worried about valve float. I can look up the numbers I used in the past, think they were Ford seals and single springs from Comp Cams to match the rate of the combined F135 springs.

Valve on the left has the new spring, you can see the stem and umbrella, valve on the right has the original inner and outer spring.

 

[KY Longhunter]

This thread needs more pictures...

 

[JohnnyC]

This thread needs more pictures...

X2

 

[Splangy]

The friggin machine shop has had my engine parts for 4 weeks now! I should have them back and the engine built by this time next week. More pictures then!

 

[Splangy]

My machine shop charges a lot and takes their sweet time getting stuff done, but boy do they do some pretty work:

 

[Splangy]

Still looking for a few parts. Still need:

Early starter (the big green one)
Tail light brackets
OEM pintle hitch
2 sided turn signals (although mine appears to be late enough to have come from the factory with the later one-sided signals)

Does anybody know what the cut-off serial number was between 1962 and 1963 model years? I doubt there is any way of knowing, but my truck appears to be a really late '62, so I'm wondering if its really a '63 model year truck. The lines are really blurry on the first few years of FJ40's. I have what appear to be the original (matching paint) turn signals, and they're single sided. I never received the front bumper, but I'm assuming it was probably the FJ40 style.

Also, still looking for the right tire. There have been endless discussions on this topic, but does anybody have any recent input? I would prefer a radial that looks like the early dunlops. I believe coker makes a good candidate, but its bias ply.

 

[Splangy]

Oh, one more thing that puzzles me. This F135 has no PCV valve on the filler tube, but has the valve cover vents welded shut. Were the valve cover vents welded shut from the factory on the early-mid 60's F135's or were the valve covers stamped without he vents cut? Was there no crankcase ventilation in 1961-1962?

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Still looking for a few parts. Still need:

Early starter (the big green one)
Tail light brackets
OEM pintle hitch
2 sided turn signals (although mine appears to be late enough to have come from the factory with the later one-sided signals)

Does anybody know what the cut-off serial number was between 1962 and 1963 model years? I doubt there is any way of knowing, but my truck appears to be a really late '62, so I'm wondering if its really a '63 model year truck. The lines are really blurry on the first few years of FJ40's. I have what appear to be the original (matching paint) turn signals, and they're single sided. I never received the front bumper, but I'm assuming it was probably the FJ40 style.

Also, still looking for the right tire. There have been endless discussions on this topic, but does anybody have any recent input? I would prefer a radial that looks like the early dunlops. I believe coker makes a good candidate, but its bias ply.

As I understand it, if it had a number 2 at the beginning of your vin, it is a '62.

They introduced new parts as the old ones expired...very hard to nail down actual dates. Because of info that Wes had, I knew that my '64 had the smaller taillights, as my truck is a month or so older than his...and his still had the originals on...as per rough calculations, mine was build early fall 1963. 1964s are supposed to have bigger taillight. My point...keep asking, eventually you'll find a " good enough" answer

I know they still make those RK3's in Malaysia in 15", but I could not find enough people to go on a group buy with me...and...I simply could not find anyone to send me a 1 set of 5.

For tires, ask the guys who got the Yoko's...they seem to be real happy with them

 

[Living in the Past]

Since there seems to be as many active thread on early 40 25s might be a good idea to have a thread with a sticky we info on these early 40. A easy to find list with VINs would help date what part of the year a 40 was made. Toyota did help us out by putting the year of production at the front of the VIN. Like Dean said Toyota was making changes all the year. Instead of calling a new model year they simply said this change was made starting with this VIN. I have some of changes. No date other than the one on the service bullet. Then some of the VIN number were different for changes on the bulletin. The parts micro-fiche I have are dated around July. Is there reaon why or did other micro-fiche come during the years I don't know. I do know the 3/69 parts book will give you a month/year for a certain part. It would of been nice if Toyota including both a date and VIN for parts. At this stage if we all the pool the info we have will probably be the best it's going to get.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Since there seems to be as many active thread on early 40 25s might be a good idea to have a thread with a sticky we info on these early 40. A easy to find list with VINs would help date what part of the year a 40 was made. Toyota did help us out by putting the year of production at the front of the VIN. Like Dean said Toyota was making changes all the year. Instead of calling a new model year they simply said this change was made starting with this VIN. I have some of changes. No date other than the one on the service bullet. Then some of the VIN number were different for changes on the bulletin. The parts micro-fiche I have are dated around July. Is there reaon why or did other micro-fiche come during the years I don't know. I do know the 3/69 parts book will give you a month/year for a certain part. It would of been nice if Toyota including both a date and VIN for parts. At this stage if we all the pool the info we have will probably be the best it's going to get.

That sounds like a great idea John, but instead of a thread, we should pass along all the info we have to one person...or put it in a thread, and then let one person take this info and make some kind of chart.

For example, I'd like to find the earliest known 40 with ribbed seats to get an idea on when in '63 the change was made from smooth to ribbed, or tuck and roll front seats

 

[KY Longhunter]

I have wanted the Eastwood flaring tool for a long time now. I figured this would be the project that I would treat myself and justify the expense. Let me tell you, this thing is worth every penny! You can make a PERFECT double flare in less than 10 seconds.

Just went on sale too

 

[Splangy]

I've been working on this more than the 1962 lately, so I got a little side-tracked. It's going in the 1981. But, I did finish the engine and installed it the other light. I also installed the trans and t-case. Sorry for the crappy phone pics. I'll take some with the good camera one of these days. Also pardon the mess in the garage. It's a compelte s***-hole with all these projects going on!

Who's got an extra generator and early starter? I have 2 generators, but one is a Delco, and the other is an unknown manufacturer with a double pulley. I don't think its original unless the double pulley was added by the PO. Anybody have an original single pulley just in case?

 

[Splangy]

I've been making a little progress on this. I recently sprayed a few batches of parts. The wheels are all done and waiting for some nice tires. I remember there being a good tire discussion in here but I can't find it now. I'm looking for a set of original looking tires (think RK3) in a radial. I really like the look of the Coker STA Traxions, but would prefer not to use a bias ply. This 40 will be rarely driven, so it probably wouldn't be a big deal to use them, but I'd like to find some radials if possible. Any ideas?

 

[JohnnyC]

looking good... very limited in choices for 15" in radial.... seems like the Yokohama Y742S are a good compromise... 7R15 ... they are 29.8” tall

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Y742S