Frame off order of operations

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Something that would help this thread for shoppers of used frames is images of the transfer case / transmission cross member attachment for the different years. A pic of a earlier 60 frame vs an 86-87 frame cross member mounts. Also an image of a 62 frame and how the motor mounts differ from a 60 and if there are other differences.
 
All the frames will work because the motor and tranny mounts can be switched relatively easily between them. One could summarize things pretty quickly though:

FJ60, 2F, H42
1981-mid-1985
- 3 piece transmission cross-member bolted to frame
- installed level, not clocked 5°
- square bolt pattern steering box
- no 5th gear spacer, longer rear driveshaft
- DC front driveshaft

FJ60, 2F, H42
mid-1985-1987
- 1 piece cross-member with welded attachment points
- clocked 5° via bell housing (these models accept H55F transplant using existing mounts)
- offset pattern steering box that will accept an 80 series steering box
- 5th gear spacer is present, so driveshafts will work with H55F
- standard front driveshaft, not DC
- possible rear sway-bar provisions

FJ62, 3FE, A440F
all years
- 1 piece cross-member with welded attachment points
- A440 automatic transmission
- cross-member will not work for H55F
- offset steering bolt pattern
- rear sway bar
- other minor frame differences such as stronger spring mounts, and extra bracing at rear bumper

I think this is a good basic summary. If anyone sees anything wrong, or wants to add to it, let me know and I'll edit the post, and credit the change to whoever suggested it.
 
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I never did see a good order of operations here. I assume:

Remove the drive train including engine, trans, t-case and drive shafts.

Unbolt the body mounts, unbolt all ground wires, disconnect brake lines, and fuel lines, remove the clutch slave or clutch line, unplug any wiring harnesses from the firewall.

what about the steering wheel? what is the best way to disjoint this? Unbolt at the universal joint just above the steering gear?

what else needs to come loose before raising?

I don't have a lift so I'm thinking a 4x4 of maybe 2ft on a floor jack "T'd" into another 4x4 timber that pushes the floor up. Once high enough above the frame run a 10 or 12 ft long 4x4 thru the side under the body but above the frame. This done 2x. Once just under the front seats and once just forward of the rear axle where the floor is still flat before the rear wheel well.

Once the body is slightly up off the frame, I assume one could raise either end of the 4x4x10ft by jacking with timbers or hoisting with an engine hoist and build timber cribbing like this image

View attachment 2170093


or use steel barrels to support under the 10ft 4x4 on either side.

Lower the air in the tires if needed and roll the chassis and axles out from the body/stands.

Once the chassis is out things will be self evident...moving bumpers, brake and fuel lines over, unbolting the spring shackles and moving the shackles/springs/axles as one unit.

"Disclaimer" I have not done this. But I like many am fighting a losing battle with my frame and it will be only a matter of time.

I would leave drive train in place until the body is off. Much easier to remove them without the body.
 
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