FJ80 n00b tackling front axle rebuild (1 Viewer)

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John Hannon

John Hannon

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Apr 14, 2017
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Location
Fairfax, CA
Hi Folks,

I'm a fairly experienced DIY mechanic getting ready to do a front axle rebuild on a friend's '92 FJ80. Never worked on an FJ or any other solid-axle 4x4. Now, my friend is the sort who does not consider maintaining his vehicle until it needs a repair, so the back plates on both sides are thoroughly coated with soup/grime--there's no telling how long since the inner axle seals failed. I'm planning on at least doing the knuckle rebuild + brakes/rotors/bearings. The birfields are not making noise, so I'll probably keep those. Should I be thinking about a diff rebuild as well? Any other considerations I should be thinking about?

Thanks!

John
 
No. Odds are the diff is OK. Do axles out.
 
See how much oil drains from the diff. You may only get a spoonful if the axlensealnleak is that bad and your buddy doesn't maintIn his cars.
 
Follow up, if I still have your attention: Can you give me an idea what quantities I will need of
-general purpose (wheel bearing) grease
-moly grease
-gear oil
 
Wheel bearing grease: 1lb tub
Moly: buy 4 of the 14oz tubes
Gear oil: 4qts

You will have a bit leftover on each.
 
when you do the axles get new axle nuts and lock tabs. whoever owned my truck before me was a butcher and air hammered the axle nuts off, you don't need to do that. youll need 4 nuts, 2 lock tabs
 
Check out the FAQ on front axle rebuild for some nice how to. Figure a couple of rolls of paper towel. Consider swapping the birfs (cv joints in other worlds). Cruiser Outfitters for a quality, comprehensive rebuild kit. Sound like you know your stuff mechanically so it will be a really greasy, messy piece of cake project for you.
 
I got the kit, it took me 2.5 days to do a single side but I also am terrible and it was my largest mechanical job ever.

Get a 2" (i think) ID pvc tube, about 4' long for separating birf and axle. To reconnect I had axle over my shoulder, birf on cardboard on ground, my daughter hitting axle with brass hammer while I pushed the locking ring in with screwdrivers. Nothing else worked.

I went through a box of gloves.

There's a solid two part video from jonesy automotive that I found super helpful.

Get enough (4 quarts?) of dif fluid, empty and fill when you're all done with axle. Get a little five buck pump to push fluid into dif.

I got a lot of use from my 1/2" impact driver.
 
Excellent intel, thank you all. Going with the Cruiser Outfitters kit. Already have the 3-pack of brass drifts from a previous job! Will definitely swap the birfs.
 
Check the bearing surface on the spindles. Hopefully they don't have a ridge. A tie rod end puller (not a pickle fork) and a seal puller and installer kit come in real handy. Zip tie the caliper to the spring or something so you don't have to bleed the brakes.

Don't separate the birfs unless you have new inner snap rings. Some kits don't come with them.
 
Look out for this:
IMG_1348.JPG


And perhaps consider this ;) :
80 Series Front Axle Reference Poster- 18"x27"
 
DirtScaresMe said:
I got the kit, it took me 2.5 days to do a single side but I also am terrible and it was my largest mechanical job ever.

Get a 2" (i think) ID pvc tube, about 4' long for separating birf and axle. To reconnect I had axle over my shoulder, birf on cardboard on ground, my daughter hitting axle with brass hammer while I pushed the locking ring in with screwdrivers. Nothing else worked.

I went through a box of gloves.

There's a solid two part video from jonesy automotive that I found super helpful.

Get enough (4 quarts?) of dif fluid, empty and fill when you're all done with axle. Get a little five buck pump to push fluid into dif.

I got a lot of use from my 1/2" impact driver.
Click to expand...

I just wrapped up the front after doing rear, all 7 brake hoses and new calipers last weekend. Took me about 10 hours to do the front knuckles. A couple notes, as this was my 2nd go around....

-follow Idaho Doug's suggest in the faq to get as much grime off before you take it apart. I always forget, and I have to put in some time with a screw driver and diesel.

-screw the inner c clips. Martack and move on with your life. I spent about 1.5 hours trying to get one to go in. About 5 mins to Martack it.

-I used some roofing felt paper under the vehicle to catch all the grimes, grease and oil. It's nice and sturdy, won't blow away, cheap and cleanup took about 2 mins outside. Just roll it up and throw in the trash.

It's a rather easy job, cleaning is what takes most of the time....
 
Drifts and a seal puller are nice and about 4 cans or more of brake clean. If you are reusing wheel bearings than you will need a lot of cleaner to also clean all 4 of them. New ones done need as much cleaning. Regardless if you reuse or replace you will need the seal behind the inner wheel bearing.

you need a big brass drift or brass hammer to remove cone washers. In the past i have always bought brass drift sets. They are always kind of small and end up bending. This time i spent $25 and bought a 3/4 brass drift. It is really nice, just a massive chunk of brass.
 
I need to learn how to do this too. Especially after just paying the bill to have a shop do it for me.

Found this 9 part video on youtube which might be of help

 
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