FJ80 3FE Waterproofing?

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Aug 9, 2026
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Before I get ragged on, this is for FL where I routinely have water over the hood and cab filling with water on deep water crossings.

I am already extended all breathers (TC, Tranny, Diffs).

I am wondering if there are resources or DIYs for either relocating distributor, engine bay relays, ECU, cabin fuses. Or if yall just dialectric grease and pray.

Thank you!

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Before I get ragged on, this is for FL where I routinely have water over the hood and cab filling with water on deep water crossings.

I am already extended all breathers (TC, Tranny, Diffs).

I am wondering if there are resources or DIYs for either relocating distributor, engine bay relays, ECU, cabin fuses. Or if yall just dialectric grease and pray.

Thank you!

View attachment 4199911

View attachment 4199912
Following. Im very interested in this aspect as well.
 
You will have to remove the carpet and all body plugs in the floor and body support channels. Make sure your door drains remain unclogged.
Would you cut a hole through the dynamat or would that allow water to ingress underneath?

Is there a map of holes for me to punch out?
 
Been dealing water crossings for decades. And dealing with other peoples bad crossings. Made a few small mistakes here and there over the years. Everyone does if they play the game enough. That's how you learn after all. One big mistake... Lost one of my '80s (and the best dog in the world) on a really bad day in 2011.

I've got a bit of experience.,


Now... did you actually type "... relocating distributor..." ??????


Mark...
 
The "breather" on the 3FE has one connection to the intake system and one to a small air filter inside the cab (high-ish, behind the dash). Basically the same as the 2F in the '60s. If that is getting water into it, you have other problems! :nailbiting:

Mark...
 
Been dealing water crossings for decades. And dealing with other peoples bad crossings. Made a few small mistakes here and there over the years. Everyone does if they play the game enough. That's how you learn after all. One big mistake... Lost one of my '80s (and the best dog in the world) on a really bad day in 2011.

I've got a bit of experience.,


Now... did you actually type "... relocating distributor..." ??????


Mark...
Hahaha. I meant ignition pack/coil. Extend distributor breathers…that’s my bad haha

I’d love some experience from your decades! I have about 10 years of failures then fixes from a Jeep XJ, to a 3rd gen 4R, to this. Would like to skip past the failures as I plan on keeping this one
 
I am a little confused by your post. Are you trying to waterproof the whole truck or just ensure it will continue to run while doing water crossings/fording?

If it is the first, I do not think this is cost effective since these truck were never made to be watertight.

Here is my .02:
If you are just trying to ensure it stays running then IMO you need to do identify two things first.
1. Determine the max depth for water. This will usually be lower than you would expect or hope. Looking at this realistically you would think this would be the mid line of the window opening. This may not be the case as the truck will want to "float" after being under a certain degree of water not to mention the driver will need to breath. :rofl:
Depending on the weight of the truck and how you rig your extended breathers you will have to determine this height. If you do water crossings often, I would put a discrete be high vis mark on the inside of the cab to give reference. Did this in the old days on HMMWV with fording kits.
2. How are you going to ensure components continue to work. You mentioned extending the breathers which is good but if you have water over the hood, where are you extending to? A snorkel should be in your future and if so, you could run the extensions up to the hat. This will place them far above what you will be able handle.

There are other things you should consider as well, one you have mentioned. You could dielectric grease on the battery terminals but think about the other electrical junctions that are essential. How are you sealing your intake/gas tank/oil/PS/transmission? Mechanical fan?

Doing water crossings are one thing but fully submerging a vehicle is never a good long term plan for many components to stay reliable.

Interested, please keep us posted on what you end up doing.
 
I am a little confused by your post. Are you trying to waterproof the whole truck or just ensure it will continue to run while doing water crossings/fording?

If it is the first, I do not think this is cost effective since these truck were never made to be watertight.

Here is my .02:
If you are just trying to ensure it stays running then IMO you need to do identify two things first.
1. Determine the max depth for water. This will usually be lower than you would expect or hope. Looking at this realistically you would think this would be the mid line of the window opening. This may not be the case as the truck will want to "float" after being under a certain degree of water not to mention the driver will need to breath. :rofl:
Depending on the weight of the truck and how you rig your extended breathers you will have to determine this height. If you do water crossings often, I would put a discrete be high vis mark on the inside of the cab to give reference. Did this in the old days on HMMWV with fording kits.
2. How are you going to ensure components continue to work. You mentioned extending the breathers which is good but if you have water over the hood, where are you extending to? A snorkel should be in your future and if so, you could run the extensions up to the hat. This will place them far above what you will be able handle.

There are other things you should consider as well, one you have mentioned. You could dielectric grease on the battery terminals but think about the other electrical junctions that are essential. How are you sealing your intake/gas tank/oil/PS/transmission? Mechanical fan?

Doing water crossings are one thing but fully submerging a vehicle is never a good long term plan for many components to stay reliable.

Interested, please keep us posted on what you end up doing.
Good question. I definitely mean just keep it running going through deep water. The only time I’ve had my entire cabin fill is if my truck dies submerged, or I get stuck on an obstacle submerged, and have to spend time setting up winch/recovery.

I’m not really crazy for it, but FL off-roading is less rocks and steep angles and more trees/water/mud. My main concern, and question for this forum, is waterproofing ignition components/electric components. Yes I will have a snorkel, and if do not get stuck generally you can “ride the wave” and not suffer from still water getting into components. However, looking to see if this has every been addressed or if no one else has to worry about water lol
 
A lot of people do precautions but I do not believe many frequently do water that is over the hood. My only experience in fording is from military vehicles and they tend not to have much in the way of electronics that are exposed.

All the examples/questions in my last post are good for getting you thinking on how you would prevent water intrusion into the various systems. The 80 has a lot of electronic components in the cab and you aren't going to save them because they are not designed for that environment.

Good on you for using your truck and not being shy about pushing it.
 
Here are some links to other discussions on the subject.




 
I didn't see it mentioned but the thing people are likely to over look is the viscous fan. For sure it will spray water all over the engine bay but if the blades deform or break off you might be looking for a new radiator.
 
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