FJ62 hard to start when hot

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I found another EFI relay for my 89 in the front passenger side kick panel, below, and right of dash. One time all I did was unplug it, remove it, pry the tabs open to inspect it, found it clean, put back in, and she fired right up.
 
Skniper said:
When a 3FE is desmogged those 3 VSV’s on the drivers fender usually get eliminated. However, the one VSV that controls the FPR should be retained and functional, IMO.
I’m not educated on how much it controls the FPR, but it’s another piece of the EFI puzzle.

If OP is desmogged, it’s something to look at.
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Not desmogged
 
Ok I replaced the EFI relay with a new one from Japan. Startup is definitely much stronger but it didn't fix it (shorten hot start to the same length as cold start)...
 
jonnyd42 said:
Ok I replaced the EFI relay with a new one from Japan. Startup is definitely much stronger but it didn't fix it (shorten hot start to the same length as cold start)...
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Do you have part # for relay and Japanese vendor? I have the same issue. Starts great in am, drive 7 miles to work but hard starting when time to go home.
Thanks!
 
AndersBror said:
Do you have part # for relay and Japanese vendor? I have the same issue. Starts great in am, drive 7 miles to work but hard starting when time to go home.
Thanks!
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85915-60030

What have you tried so far? I would love to finally fix this issue :(
 
jonnyd42 said:
85915-60030

What have you tried so far? I would love to finally fix this issue :(
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Thanks for the part #...! I'm relatively new to Land Cruisers...but so far installing Cruiser_trash's fusible link upgrade I've noticed a marginal improvement in starting and idle has gone to 700 from 650 RPM.
 
Alright guys I finally have time for once next Saturday to dig into this properly. Dug out my FSM with the temp vs. resistance charts so I'll measure all the sensors and see if anything is acting up. Will report back.
 
I might have missed it…but have you upgraded all of your battery cables and major ground wires? 4 gage marine cable with new crimped copper fittings sealed with heat shrink for all the battery hot wires and major ground wires can really make a big difference in any old vehicle. Also going through and cleaning all your ground mating surfaces. Running another ground wire or two from the engine the frame never hurts. Heavier ground wire from the alternator case to battery and a direct cable from the alternator combat positive can make a big difference. Lights will be brighter, motors will go faster etc.
 
Seth S said:
I might have missed it…but have you upgraded all of your battery cables and major ground wires? 4 gage marine cable with new crimped copper fittings sealed with heat shrink for all the battery hot wires and major ground wires can really make a big difference in any old vehicle. Also going through and cleaning all your ground mating surfaces. Running another ground wire or two from the engine the frame never hurts. Heavier ground wire from the alternator case to battery and a direct cable from the alternator combat positive can make a big difference. Lights will be brighter, motors will go faster etc.
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Yep, I’ve done this
 
It was raining all Sat so my diagnosis day got postponed until I'm back from a Moab trip next week.
However, I did pull the cold start injector and it was pretty gunked up (not terrible tho). Soaked it in carb cleaner and cleaned out the rest of the deposits. Reinstalled it and the truck starts much stronger cold now.

It also seems to have helped hot starts mysteriously, but need to do more extended testing. Will report back after the road trip to Moab on Thurs.
 
jonnyd42 said:
It was raining all Sat so my diagnosis day got postponed until I'm back from a Moab trip next week.
However, I did pull the cold start injector and it was pretty gunked up (not terrible tho). Soaked it in carb cleaner and cleaned out the rest of the deposits. Reinstalled it and the truck starts much stronger cold now.

It also seems to have helped hot starts mysteriously, but need to do more extended testing. Will report back after the road trip to Moab on Thurs.
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I’m telling you
 
jonnyd42 said:
Alright. I don’t get it but soaking the cold start injector in carb cleaner has fixed this issue lol.
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I think calling it something like “initial start injector” might be better?

I didn’t believe it would work either but someone I really trust, as does our entire Toyota community here in central Texas, flatly told me it was the solution to the same problem I was having.

Thank @aljollano of AJ’s Yotas in Cedar Park, TX.
He’s the man.
 
RevISK said:
I think calling it something like “initial start injector” might be better?

I didn’t believe it would work either but someone I really trust, as does our entire Toyota community here in central Texas, flatly told me it was the solution to the same problem I was having.

Thank @aljollano of AJ’s Yotas in Cedar Park, TX.
He’s the man.
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Thanks! The strange thing is it never had problems starting when cold. Only hot. The temperature dependence stumps me

Toyota's official name for it is the "cold start injector" FWIW:


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Update: it didn't fix it. After driving for more than an hour the issue is the exact same. Guess I'm getting out the multimeter
 
Update: it was the fuel pump.
Wasn't holding pressure after shutoff (dropping to 0 psi instantly).

Fuel pump actually died on me in the middle of Utah - replaced with a new Denso part and the problem is gone completely.
 
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