Build fj62 gets a lift

[franklin40]

kids are sleeping, time to play.

got the passenger side seat in. hot wired it and it moves well. just need to hook up the wires to truck power now. I also used the coin holders in the center console to make some trim prices for the heater switches. they turned out pretty good I'd say. makes it look like they are supposed to be there. I used some of torfabs seat brackets that I had powder coated. I was a little worried at first because the bolt holes were way off. there's a second threaded hole in the floor beside the one my current seats are bolted to that matches perfectly. just had to cut the carpet in an "x" to put the bolt through. I just have to add power to the heaters and also install the drivers seat. really hasn't been tough at all.

here's the switch the way it came

here's what I cut out

and here it is snugged around the switch. I was going to glue it but it's actually gripping quite well and comes in and out of the conse as a single unit the way it is so I don't think I'll need to glue it

 

[franklin40]

and here it is mounted in the centre console

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Nice, seats look comfy, remind me of my old Volvo seats. Nice work.

J

 

[klip]

Wow, couldn't get much better than that! looks great.

 

[franklin40]

thanks. I thought it turned out pretty good. can't wait to get the other seat in and actually sit in them. I've only had a test sit on the garage floor

 

[franklin40]

so I got the seats wired up to power and seat heaters. I wired power for them together from the one last circuit I had left on my aux fuse box. the switches for the seat heaters even have the old school green light in them so they fit perfectly. for those who are looking for wiring of these BMW seats here are a few pictures and description. the key is finding the red and brown wires. red is power brown is ground. everything works power wise off these wires. if you seats have factory seat heaters that's a different matter, mine didn't so I have after market ones.

to find the two wires there is a yellow female connector hooked to the under side of the seat. slide it off so you can work with it

now slide off the black sleeve on the back. there are two tabs to hold down to slide it

now you'll see the coloured wires your looking for. I slid this connector out and replaced everything to keep it clean up under the seat. I spliced my own harness ends on so if I ever need to remove the seats they'll come out easy

the above picture shows the red-brown in my fingers.

everything I need works off these two wires including the memory settings. it's really that easy. I'll post up some pictures of everything installed tomorrow. it's too dark now

oh and I went back to my halogens and think I'll stay with them. they look better and the light is symmetrical. they also seal better than the HID housings. I've got bugs inside the housings which also means water can get in. my high beam indicator works again too.

 

[franklin40]

here's what it looks like now. they are quite comfy.

and looking at these pictures I need to vacuum by the looks of it

 

[franklin40]

I've now got a question for the wiring gurus out there. I have some led flood lights I am wiring up and want to run them through a relay. all I can find are 5 pin relays but a 4 pin would be ideal. my understanding of the 5 pin is that when deactivated the 30-87a circuit is live and when the relay is activated the 30-87 circuit is the active instead. can I hook my lights up to the 30-87 circuit and just leave the 87a pin empty? all I want is on/ off with my switch.

schematic of what I mean...as if it's really needed for most of you guys though!

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

yes...leave the normally closed contact of 87a without a wire; the 12+ will go to terminal 30 and to terminal 85 if you are going to switch the ground (best idea- run a chassis grounded or factory ground terminal grounded wire as your take-off to the switch terminal 1, switch terminal 2 takes switched ground to terminal 86 of relay. terminal 85 of relay is fed either always hot power via a jumper wire from terminal 30 OR key-on only power (or even acc-on/key-on only power) via a wire tapped from one of those circuits (so you can only turn the lights on with key either in acc or on position if desired). the wire taking 12+ to the lights will land to terminal 87 of the relay....does this make sense?

 

[franklin40]

by the way I took a two hour drive yesterday to go canoeing and LOVE the seats. no more truck related back pain. I'm 6"2 and 215lbs and they adjust perfectly so there's lots of head room and I can see the gauges well and I don't feel too cramped at all. I'm very happy with this upgrade so far.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Sorry to be a looky-lou, but what brand of seats are those? they do look niiiice

 

[franklin40]

yes that makes sense. I know the rest of the cruiser is switched grounds but my ipf headlight harness was set up to be switched power. the dimmers on the switches don't work for this reason so to keep everything looking the same I'll likely wire the switches the same way that ARB did it.

 

[franklin40]

they are BMW M3 seats. I don't know the year but early 90s I think. they've been sitting in my garage for about 6 months taunting my to get them in. finally I made some time to get it done.

 

[franklin40]

vanity, vanity! All is vanity!!

I got the lights wired up and actually did it exactly as lambcrusher suggested and then just ran a power wire seperately for the switch back light. they work wonderfully but it took a 30 minute job with all the included switches and components and turned it into a 4 hour job running wires, soldering together my own harness etc just so I have a switch that matches my ARB switches for my locker. I just couldn't bring myself to use a round switch that came with the lights when all the others I have are rectangle. I guess I also have it wired to a relay which I think is better than direct through the switch

 

[franklin40]

no new tech yet but a few pictures of a trip i just went on. i was looking for a back country lake i was taken to 25 years ago with amazing fishing. I'm not sure which of many little back country lakes it was in northern saskatchewan but i had a rough idea. never found it but had a great time trying. later we went further north to stanely mission where saskatchewans oldest building exists. its the church built on the churchill river, canada's first highway!! beautiful up there this time of year.

 

[franklin40]

turned over 450000 km tonight. all original drivelines.

 

[franklin40]

though there's never been a doubt today once again proves I have the best wife!! my truck has been filthy dirty for the past month and a half because I just haven't had time to clean it. she needed it today while the van was in the shop but when I came home it was all detailed. she did a GOOD job too! what a gift!!

 

[acerock]

Did you buy the seat heaters or cannibalize them from another vehicle?

 

[franklin40]

bought them. had them installed for me too as I don't really have or want the tools or skills to pull all that stuff apart. I guess I'm just lazy! but I do love them

 

[franklin40]

on a different note I have a high idle problem and it seems very similar to many people with throttle position sensor problems. runs well but wants to idle at 1100-1200. on ice it's a nuicence as I'm constantly doing a brake torque spinning my rear wheels unless I tromp on the brakes. I have searched and found many threads on testing the TPS. I don't have a FSM but do understand how to test it with my multi meter. my question i cant find an answer to is am I supposed to test it with the engine running, just the ignition on or no key or does it matter?