first oil change after break in today. happy with how it looked. not too dark!!
i also got my vacuum pump and tested the 4wd with it using the line directly off the vsv. it turned 4wd on so i know i dont have a down stream leak. i think its the VSV itself. so now to find a replacement. i know theres a thread on here about a plug and play alternative. i may have a learning a good used one first!!
and now that i have things running well i can go back to my mike long “to do list”. first is get my rear bumper rebuilt! start by pulling it off…. literally. it actually wasn’t too tough and the frame rails look quite good behind it.
well weirdness of weird i swapped the vsv out for a new one and still no go. so i hooked up the vacuum tester to the small line upstream and it makes maybe -1 psi. i unhooked the big line from the brake booster, got a audible woosh of air and nearly got sucked in so i know my pump is making good vacuum. so i disconnected the small line from the vacuum pump and tried blowing through it. its plugged with something!! i even pressurized the line with the pump and got about 20psi!! so i’m now thinking im just not getting vacuum in that one line because something stuck in there. i’m nackered as to what could have plugged it but im going to buy a new stretch of hose and see what happens.
i was wondering why it won’t shift out of 4wd if it was just a bad brown vsv. but this makes more sense and neither solenoid is seeing appreciable vacuum
got it sorted!! the banjo fitting little tube on the vacuum pump (1hdt) looked like it was dropped in mud that then hardened!! it was so packed it took a while to clean it out with some carb cleaner and a piece of welding wire!! but it works now.
next i’ve got to find a bad wire for my passenger side headlight.
i started the rebuild of my 4plus bumper. it hurts my heart cutting into such a work of art! but i need to change the spindles. i cut the rusted spindles off and used a hole saw around them. then i had to open the cavity the spindles sits in and then cut the base off.
i’ll patch it all again but dave’s workmanship sure is fine!!
little more tonight. got the second spindle cut out. i have to cut the tubes off the swing outs yet but i have to pull them out of my coverall and it’s too dark and cold tonight. then i can start tacking things in place!!
chipping away at this little by little. it’s -23 today so the shop is cold. but i got one spindle welded in place and mostly patched. i have the inside plate to put back on but ill do that last once im sure i dont need back in there!
and yes its welded inside at the bottom of the spindle for strength
little more progress on the bumper today. i had an extra day off work so figured i could play and be productive this way!
i had to shorten the swing arms a little as the new spindles are quite a bit wider. i torched the old ones off and then cleaned up the ends and notched them. i’m pretty close to welding. i have some spacing to do as im going to try using some gas struts supplied by 4x4 labs so i need a bit more of a gap between the bumper and swing outs.
if anyone has uses the 4x4 labs spindles what is used on the bumper side to block excessive swing? there’s a notch built onto the spindle tube that’s supposed to be an interference block. just curious as to what to use for the block if i use it
got the welding and grinding done. i found a few areas of hidden rust under the powder coat so i have to look if it needs addressing or if its just needing to be blasted. i emailed dave from 4plus and he was good enough to direct me to replacement rubber bumps stops as mine are rusted in and not adjusted right. i’ll destroy them pulling them out. so i’ll get those ordered and i should have all the hardware i need to complete this. i have some gas struts to add to give control of the swing outs and then i may add a bolt as a hard stop on the pivot to protect the gas struts from over extending. then i can get it blasted and recoated!!
time to change gears a little while finding time to finish the bumper. i felt a pop last week while driving and the rear springs got noticeably bouncier. my shocks are old bilsteins so i figured it was just time to replace. i didn’t even try warranty as they are probably 15 years old and 250 000km plus on them. i cant hold them accountable for that. the old ones are toast though. they’re leaking oil and one of them won’t fully compress so i figure something broke inside!!
so i read some old threads and ordered the 33-185606 as thats what everyone else said worked. well they are 3 inches shorter than what i had. . i was able to scrape the rust and grease off the old ones and i had used
33-185552. they do work well but i jacked up the truck to droop the rear springs. i have 23 inches center pin to center pin. these 185606 are 23.5 inches so i guess they’ll work. i’ll run them. i have some 185552 on my shelf awaiting the 40 to come in out of the snow for some love but i have to finish the 62 for now. i don’t want to send these back so ill use them. i was able to reuse the 3/4 inch bushings but this will be the last time they get used.
started tearing into the dash and painting the new bezel
i have a autobody friend who suggested using borax to clean the raw plastic, then use an anti static cleaner followed by a adhesion promoter. i used SEM products and then top coated with my interior matched paint. so far it looks awesome. funny that such a small but important part needs to be painted. cost about $120 in prep.
while i’m in there another mud member made me some replacement lenses for the dash. he made me a glow lens that replaces the engine light and made a matching 4wd on the other side. i finally got them installed.
i’m working on a heated steering wheel so i’ll play with that again if i can find all my parts and i have a few accessories my son is 3D printing me some brackets for. i also what to take up my search for why my rear wiper motor isn’t working. i tried a new switch today as i have an extra one and it didn’t make a difference.
back to the bumper. i got all the finishing “touches” with the air struts and bump stops in place. i have a couple holes to drill and tap yet before getting it galvanized and coated. new lights fit and all the clamps and wiring removed. i welded some nuts in for the shock mounts to make them a little more rigid
so we all know we drive luxury suvs but with awesome ability. well one item in my luxury vehicle i thought i would like to add was a heated steering wheel. for those who live in a cold climate and have used a heated steering wheel it really is a nice touch. i know you’re thinking “but it’s summer”. well it’s taking me two years of planning, collecting parts and then finally getting time to put it together
i got the dash back together again…. mostly. i have a couple switches to reinstall. one of my switch bulbs burned out though so i’ll have to find a new one of those. i have a few details left to finish up. then my son printed me a new cup holder so i’ll get that painted up and installed. my centre console
will have to come out to attach that so while i’m there i’ll chase why my passenger seat heater isn’t working.
then i’m doing the fast window mod and i may tackle the locks while im at it.
and lastly i have to figure out that dang rear wiper that isn’t working!!
so hopefully by the time i get the rear bumper done i’ll be done most of this other stuff.
more tinkering. i got some dry transfers for my switches. i have a few dash items i must have hooked up wrong so i have to take it apart again. i’ll pull the rest of the switches out and do the locker and compressor symbols. also started painting the cup holder my son 3D printed for me
back from coating. also had them do a bunch of brackets for my fj40 build that is taking WAY too long!!
maybe i’ll find time to get it all assembled and mounted today. i have yet another fj40 project for my son im working on so we’ll see who’s is more pressing/interest
. i was able to scrape the rust and grease off the old ones and i had used
