Build fj62 gets a lift

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my tps numbers were off so I just ordered a new one. does anyone have directions to an online version for the fsm. I know there are a number of mud members who have them in their sig lines but I just can't find them now.
 
i kind of want to cry tonight. i have an axle seal that is leaking even after fixing my breather problem. i went to fix it tonight and guess what came out of the diff? oil full of metal shavings. I've had a howl for a few months but haven't been able to pin point where it was coming from. my brother in law who is a mechanic had a listen and said he thought it was my pinion bearing (lifted the truck on jack stands and used a stethoscope). i was convinced it couldn't be because my rear diff is only two years old and built by cruiser outfitters. it must be coming from somewhere else and transmitting to that round about area. well tonight confirmed that my pinion bearing has more than normal play and a LOT of metal shavings in the oil. needless to say i didn't finish the axle seal job. it all has to come apart to rebuild the diff again. is all that metal in the oil going to wreck my new axle bearings and my ARB locker? i sure hope not. i guess the bearings should be replaced with new seals while it is all apart. those parts aren't expensive. DANG!!!
 
so I got my throttle position sensor and before i put it in my idle has corrected itself. it seemed to happen after it got really cold here. does this make any sense to anyone? do these sensors work intermittently or when they fail do they fail completely? it's a $200 part I'm not sure now about replacing!!
 
haven't had time to do the TPS yet so nothing to report there. I did take it in today though to have the rear end rebuilt again!!

hopefully it'll last this time. I have no idea why it failed so quickly. maybe while it's out they can find a reason and fix it.
 
ahhh! i got a quote of $2700 to rebuild my diff using OEM gears. thats $200 more than i bought the truck for! i asked them to look at cruise outfitters for parts as the OEM ring gear i thing was quoted at around $2000. that's nearly 10 x more than a good aftermarket one. if it's going to be more than $1200 i think i'll ship it down to kurt to build. he's done both already and i know he does a good job. it only cost $80 i think to ship it each way too so it's not out of question to do it. just takes a while and i don't want the truckle down that a long as it's my daily driver. i just have no idea why one went as soon as it did.
 
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well the 62 is down for now. rear diff is out and on its way back to Kurt at cruiser outfitters. he built it about 40 000 km ago but said he'd still try to get warantee on it as it seems like a bad pinion bearing caused the problem. he said at least he'd comp the labour cost to rebuild it and give me cost on parts if I can't get full coverage. what a guy!! super service and stand up guy. just wish I was closer. oh well. it'll be done right this way.

laying on wet concrete during a canadian winter isnt too much fun by the way!!
 
We'll get you taken care of. I'm quite curious to know what actually failed. My bet is something either failed on a bearing or debris got in a bearing but we'll have to get it torn down. I'll keep you posted!
 
awesome, awesome, awesome! that's Kurt!

4 day turn around on my diff, found a bad carrier bearing. it's all back together and will be in the mail tomorrow! WOW!

all I can say is just go to cruiser outfitters. forget the other places!!
 
according to ups the diff should be here tomorrow. I spent tonight cleaning up the axle housing. I pulled the studs out for my new cover. I'll be putting new axle seals in. the bearings are all cleaned up and thankfully are in good shape. should I grease them up or just let the diff oil lube them up. I'm just worried they'll run dry for a bit and damage them. what grease should I use or should I just pour diff oil on them prior to putting the axles in?

also was a magnetic drain plug standard on fj62s? mine has one in it albeit a small magnet
 
I just put a little disc brake bearing grease on them during the installation, then jacked one side up, then the other to get the diff lube flowing while spinning the wheel.

I've driven the diesel swap 15-20 miles on jack stands doing diagnostics and it seems to be fine...
 
parts all showed up but I haven't opened them yet. I have all the seals and fluids so now it's a matter of a final cleaning of the housing and put it all back together. hopefully I'll gt it in this Saturday. it's supposed snow a bunch here that day so I might go snowmobiling!!

on a side note I heard a funny but problematic question asked next to me at the parts store. a young man asked "do you have any product for and idiot like me who put gas in a diesel truck?". parts guy " did you start it yet". young guy "yeah it's running outside right now".

yikes. that's likely not doing his engine any good!!
 
new axle seals in, diff in, air lines hooked up, axles in, diff assembled and the access cover now on!! just letting the RTV dry and I'll fill it up with oil. I have synthetic 75W/140. that should be fine right. I poured a little onto the axle bearings so they'll be lubed until the diff fluid starts getting out there. I have a bit of a frozen ebrake on he passenger side. it comes on when the cable is pulled but won't release. I'm soaking it tonight with releasall which should break up the rust but is there a better way to get it moving freely again?
 
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