FJ60 Temp. Gauge not fully moving (1 Viewer)

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85 FJ60 have an issue with the temperature gauge it only moves up a small amount above the bottom of the white, not mid way through the white like it normally did. I thought it was the sender on the engine block so I removed the sender place it in a glass of water and measured the resistance levels at different temps and it showed to be working properly. Drove the LC around and took resistance levels with the LC hot, it showed that the car was running a the proper temp. ( not the thermostat ). Replaced the dash board gauge, needle rose to the same position with the new gauge. Checked to see if there was any loss in continuity from the sending unit to clip the plugs into the instrument cluster, no loss. Checked to see the same from the cluster pins to the gauge terminal, no loss.

It doesn’t jump around like it would if the ground wire was loose

I am at a loss, any suggestions on where to look next?
 
Hi, Thermostat sticking or rubber gasket inside housing bad. Mike
 
I have the exact same problem. Hope someone can shed light on it. I have read that tech article, and seems pretty complicated for a simple temp gauge. I think if it really started to overheat, the gauge would show it in some way. The way I look at it, if my truck was overheating, I would smell,feel, and see it also.
 
Install an Autometer mechanical temp gauge and never look at the stock one again.
 
^^^ Thanks for the input. Everything in my system is new as I rebuilt my engine 2000 miles ago. As far as a mechanical gauge, those have to be mounted inline on the upper radiator hose, correct?
 
because the sending unit on the engine block meets the specs in the owners manual of for different temps i know that the sending unit is working proper and the engine is running at the proper temp.
 
OS, what are those gauge pod mounts you're using. I like 'em.
 
Where'd you port your Autometer probe into on your FJ?
@Spike Strip has the ticket. My sender has had issues - not the same exact ones, but issues nonetheless. Auto meter temp gauge gives me a LOT of peace of mind. Sender is installed in the upper radiator hose using a Glowshift 38mm adapter. The sender requires a ground through the threads of the sender, and because the metal Glowshift adapter is mounted between two pieces of rubber, I taped a ground wire to the body of the sender and stuck a ring terminal on the other side. It’s under a bolt for the smog stuff on my inner fender well. I think eventually I’d like to solder that wire to the body of the Glowshift thing, but it works with this self-sealing silicone tape. Been on there like that for 10k miles with no issues.

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Been many notes on this issue over time...but like many things...all depends. I think its fairly common that the OEM gauge becomes either non-responsive or very inaccurate. Thus many people resort to aftermarket gauge (I did), in my case I did an engine swap not too long after I bought my truck. But as I recall you can use a mechanical temp sender where the OEM sender was (using a bushing), you can find articles on that. Or you can look for other places to tap for temp reference in the coolant path.

As someone else noted I think too, it can be a classic issue of the missing thermostat housing gasket. (so called o ring). If you are unsure of this...then I would simply replace with new thermostat and ensure you install the gaskets correctly. YOu can do some searches and see a number of pics / articles on this. I don't test thermostats....I just replace them, if I take the time to take things apart...its not value added on time/$$ to do otherwise.

If truck is not overheating or showing other signs....I would just go with a good quality aftermarket temp gauge setup (mechanical or electric), and that would be my temp reference...ignoring the factory guage or removing its sender as noted above.
 
How is your fuel gauge working? I went thru the exact same thing with mine. Replaced alot of stuff. The magical thing was the aftermarket thermostat the PO had put in there. Get an OEM one....they are not that expensive and it fixed my temp gauge issues for once and for all. Also make sure you get the gasket and the o-ring....all separate parts. The fuel sender and gauge is connected with the temp sender. It should read just below half temp wise.
 
the "cool" part about the aftermarket gauge is that you can see actual temp in F (value) rather than hot/cold . A mechanical aftermarket gauge is going to be far more accurate if that matters to you. Easy to do. The only part that bites about an mechanical gauge setup is that the sender tube is permantely attached to the gauge, so it either works as to distance and mounting or it does not, then if any changes later...the thing has to be disconnected at the engine.
 

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