Builds FJ45SWB recovered from a barn (2 Viewers)

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try a GM corvette master.. one guy in our club has manual 4wd on an older FJ40 and it works well for him. I doubt you will have enough volume with a toyota master to achieve what you want. I think? Poser possibly assisted or set his up? I'd phone a friend on that one.
 
try a GM corvette master.. one guy in our club has manual 4wd on an older FJ40 and it works well for him. I doubt you will have enough volume with a toyota master to achieve what you want. I think? Poser possibly assisted or set his up? I'd phone a friend on that one.

I'm thinking that would be Ed Long (degnol), and I also seem to recall Poser being in on that. That's a trip in the way-back machine!
 
Thanks for the suggestions. Getting the volume is not an issue. Volume comes from a 1" or 1-1/16" 40 or 80 or T100 MC, but IME that combo yields a too firm pedal even with power assist.

To get enough pressure requires a small bore MC (5/8 or 11/16) from a corolla or similar, but I'm pretty sure that will give a very long pedal stroke.

Wondering if somebody has tried it with decent results.
 
This is a bit out of the box, but what about running one of Georg's new 2F Saginaw kits and just using the pump to run hydroboost? With the Astrovan master cylinder that most people use.
 
Without doing the math I'm pretty sure you'll need to adjust the pedal ratio to get one of the larger bore master cylinders to work. This even though the truck had manual brakes to start with.

Hydroboost is a pretty compact system that works well - I've had it stock in a GMC 1 ton cube van, a '85 Chevy full-sized wagon and the current Ford tow rig. Never had issue with that part of the braking system on any of those vehicles.

Nick
 
Ive done the math and it indicates with stock pedal ratio, a 5/8" MC is needed to generate sufficient pressure to stop the truck. There are two problems with that. First, a 5/8 dual circuit MC is not a common part (but 11/16 is). second, we know empirically a stock Cruiser 7/8 MC will have a slightly long/spongy pedal w/ 4WDB. From this we can assume that a 11/16 (.371in^2) would have 60% more travel than the 7/8 (.601in^2).

The question of the day remains: Are there any successful manual MC equipped cruisers w/ 4WDB?
If this has been tried and can't be made to work w/ the pad material and rotor diameters we're given, then I'll accept defeat and get a dinky PB booster off a Tercel/corolla/sidekick/metro.
If it can work, please share the recipe so I don't hafta reinvent the wheel.
 
Got some good info from another thread in FJ40 section.
MAF has been selling a 1" bore dual circuit MC as an upgrade from the 1" bore single circuit MC. It has been tried w/ 4WDB and found to be a little too much MC.
So it would seem a 7/8 MC could be a good place to start.
 
Problems:
First, the top of the transfer case and the t-case Hi-Lo shift lever hit the bottom of the cab floor hard. Have done this swap before several times, only had interference problems w/ tunnel cover. The 1962 floor is different from the 66-newer others.

Any suggestions besides cut out floor and build up?


Another minor problem is the p-brake cable mount at firewall. Truck didn't come with a cable, so the universal 1960s-early 70s part was ordered. The only issue is the mount holes in firewall are off. Anybody have a bad cable with the correct endpiece?
IMG_20160217_194233836.jpg


IMG_20160217_194312804.jpg


Any help on either issue is appreciated.
 
New captive nuts inside the firewall to match the bolt pattern on the handbrake cable?
 
is the hi-low hitting the rib under the tub? (the one that runs the length of the tub and curves behind the tranny tunnel hole) I had to "notch" mine a touch to get it to clear. and insure the bolt was installed the correct direction.
 
Yes Tornado, the interference is worst where a box-section rib is laying (hard) on the Hi-Lo lever. The first plan of attack is notch the floor rib & put 2 used, flattened pucks in the rear mounts. Hopefully that'll get the needed clearance.

On the P-brake cable, I am hoping somebody can sell me the end to fit this firewall. If not, then the newer style piece will be installed using 2 self drilling sheet metal screws.
 
Bolted in the 3 frame mounts.

Rear was straight bolt in w/ 3/8 hardware.

Both of the front mounts bolted in w/ 3 out 4 bolts lining up perfectly. One hole was off by about one hole diameter. Thought this might be because the mounts were from 1978, going onto F powered frame, but comparing to a 1968 frame shows the change occurred between 62 & 68.


Ready for power train to drop in.

Update for posterity. I pulled the bolt in mounts out of my '65swb today to replace the hardware with less painfully obvious buttonhead bolts (thanks to a suggestion from @DSB345 ) Here is a shot of my framerail. All holes line up with the standard mounts. So now we can apprantly narrow down your pattern to pre '65
image.jpg
 
Jim

If you're still wondering about the e-brake, I can check a couple of things tomorrow.
 
Thanks for the pics, HDJ80.

That's quite a bit different from the new one I got from the toy dealer. My new cable with large adjusting nuts on the end is definitely not fitting into that dinky endpiece.

Mark, got a complete 60020 cable for sale? If not, it appears to still be available from Toyota for $35.
 
Jim

I have four of them on the shelf. That said, I gave up trading dollars in the last millenium. The price you were quoted is close enough to my cost that I would be upside down for the time it took to reorder, pay for the part and restock the shelf.

Mark
 
I have four of them on the shelf. That said, I gave up trading dollars in the last millenium. The price you were quoted is close enough to my cost that I would be upside down for the time it took to reorder, pay for the part and restock the shelf.

Mark
Mark, please send one of the brake cables and an invoice. Include amount for speedo cable on the invoice pleez. Check will be in the mail upon receipt.

(Deviously twirls end of mustache) My FJ45 plani is progressing well, Bwa ha haha.
 

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