Fj43 will not go over 30MPH. Super low velocity but high RPM

[Pilsanss1962]

Hello, I'm wondering if any of you Fj40 gurus can help me out with this quagmire. So I have a completely restored Fj43 4 speed 1978 2F down here in Medellín Colombia. All components of the car are new, including the engine. In our couple of initial test drives, we found that the vehicle will under no circumstances go faster than 30 miles per hour, and that's at the top of fourth gear with the pedal to the floor. The engine seems to run very strong with plenty of power uphill. The vacuum is at 15. But we are 7000 feet above sea level. The valves have been adjusted. The timing has been set. But at 30 miles per hour it feels like the engine needs six more gears to get up to 55. Also, notably, we drove the car 17 miles and it burned through half a tank of gas. WTF? Fuel tank as been restored and the filters show perfectly clean fuel. Thanks in advance if you can help.

 

[brian]

Lol.
Its in 4low

 

[Pilsanss1962]

Lol.
Its in 4low

lol... i know . very good point but we checked that shifter 100X. but i think you are right. we will see if the linkage is stuck.

 

[igotta40]

If you can take off from a stop in any gear, it is probably in low range.

 

[3_puppies]

all the components of the car are new??? most likely gone thru maybe but not new

someone screwed up in assembling the transfer case or the linkage.

 

[Pilsanss1962]

all the components of the car are new??? most likely gone thru maybe but not new

someone screwed up in assembling the transfer case or the linkage.

Thank you 100% correct

 

[bikersmurf]

All things point to low range. Just because you can’t get it to shift doesn’t mean it isn’t. It was all restored, and something may not be quite right.

Low speed + high rpm = low gearing = low range

Only other option is that you’re somehow limited to a high idle (1200-1500 rpm), and it for some reason sounds like high rpm. But since it probably sounds like it’s about to take off… that’s probably not the case.

Unlock the front hubs, drive around a parking lot turning left and right for a couple figure eights and then when rolling very slowly (almost stoped) see if it’ll shift with a firm bump on the stick.

I emphasize firm, but not hard! Use a bit of finesse. This is not the time for a four foot cheater bar and all your weight.

If it won’t shift, open up the T-Case and figure out why.

 

[henryporter]

I have a similar issue here. I'm a newbie and recently bought my '71 FJ40. I'm seeing slow speeds, high RPM and high fuel use. "FD" knob won't push in. Light for FD is disconnected. So, I'm pretty sure we are stuck with front drive engaged. Can anyone point me to a troubleshooting guide for this? I plan to start at the vacuum shift valve, but not even sure how to start testing it

 

[brian]

I have a similar issue here. I'm a newbie and recently bought my '71 FJ40. I'm seeing slow speeds, high RPM and high fuel use. "FD" knob won't push in. Light for FD is disconnected. So, I'm pretty sure we are stuck with front drive engaged. Can anyone point me to a troubleshooting guide for this? I plan to start at the vacuum shift valve, but not even sure how to start testing it

Forum rules.
No pix, no answers.

 

[RevISK]

Forum rules.
No pix, no answers.

Gotta pay the tax..

 

[65swb45]

Forum rules.
No pix, no answers.

I didn't get the memo...but I like it!

@henryporter , take a pic of how the arm on top of the passenger side of the transfer case is positioned.

 

[charliemeyer007]

In high range 4 wheel drive you will get less miles per gallon, in 4 wheel drive low range you will get even less miles per gallon and it will top out in the 30 mile per hour zone, and yes the RPM's will be high.

Maybe some free manuals will help you.

Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs)

Factory service manuals (FSMs) for your Toyota Land Cruiser ! From the 1950s to the present!

www.cruisercult.com

 

[henryporter]

Best I could do. What a mess

 

[charliemeyer007]

https://www.sor.com/cat/072

 

[65swb45]

Interesting. It looks like the orientation of arm is different between the first and second pics of it. In high range, the arm will be pushed back, towards the rear of the vehicle, like in the first pic of it. In low range, it will be hovering over the top cover bolt, like the second pic.

Block the tires. Then Pull the cotter pin and connecting linkage off and manually move the arm back and forth. You should feel three distinct position clicks. With the arm in the rearmost of the three, try driving the truck again.

And if it should happen to pop out of gear while you’re driving it, then you will know: it’s definitely time for a rebuild! I have been servicing transfer cases with that problem since before I opened my shop 35+ years ago.

 

[mdsims]

Gotta pay the tax..

Gotta pay the troll toll!

 

[henryporter]

Interesting. It looks like the orientation of arm is different between the first and second pics of it. In high range, the arm will be pushed back, towards the rear of the vehicle, like in the first pic of it. In low range, it will be hovering over the top cover bolt, like the second pic.

Block the tires. Then Pull the cotter pin and connecting linkage off and manually move the arm back and forth. You should feel three distinct position clicks. With the arm in the rearmost of the three, try driving the truck again.

And if it should happen to pop out of gear while you’re driving it, then you will know: it’s definitely time for a rebuild! I have been servicing transfer cases with that problem since before I opened my shop 35+ years ago.

Finally revisiting. Popped the cotter pin and linkage. I only feel two distinct positions - front and back. It moves smoothly, but definitely does not move beyond these positions. I don’t try yet driving in either…here are some more pictures