middlecalf
SILVER Star
Looks like there was oil at some point up top.
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Yes I’ve always had oil on top. I wasn’t sure how much should be there or if it was just there from when I filled it up.Looks like there was oil at some point up top.
Yes distributor is seatedWith limited evidence regarding the "crime scene", SWAGs run rampant.
View attachment 3446712
" I was able to turn it back and forth by hand and free it up" Crankshaft or distributor?
Have you gotten the distributor seated, so additional cranking won't exacerbate the situation?
verified spark, Spark plugs spark?
fuel middle of carburetor sight glass?
compression. values by cylinder?
I noticed that the fuel from the carb was just kind of pooling in the intake manifold and getting to the pistons. Flooded engines typically won't start.
I checked and I have zero vacuum while cranking. Carburetor throat plugged off? all spark plugs removed? There's a lot more vacuum on an engine running at 600 rpm.
I was thinking maybe when it froze I broke the timing gear? If you crank it with the plugs out, do the push rods move?
Yes I have verified timing several times now.Unless I missed it, you don't say that you have verified/reset the timing. All the engine need to kick off is spark, compression, air and fuel. I have "started" engines with no carb. Just a bit of fuel puddled in the manifold and they will kick over. But the spark has to be at the right time no matter what. Since you had a distributor issue, I assume that you have dicked around with it some. Did you make sure your timing is set correctly?
Mark...
cuz there isn’t oneI am not familiar enough to know but I have never heard of a timing chain slipping on these…
I have verified five times and at all times, I set it at 180 degrees wrong... crank.. no start.. flooding... until it backfired.. and the muffler explodedYes I have verified timing several times now.
Yeah trust me I’ve dome some crazy stuff trying to fix this thing. But for the timing I verified TDC on compression stroke, stabbed the distributor rotor pointed to piston #4 and #1 on the cap, then when it didn’t turn over, just to verify, I swapped the distributor wires 1 to 6, 5 to 2 and 3 to 4, and still got nothing. Didn’t even try to fire. Nada.I have verified five times and at all times, I set it at 180 degrees wrong... crank.. no start.. flooding... until it backfired.. and the muffler exploded
a good lesson for me
150 on 1&6, btwn 125 &135 on 2-5. Won’t start, it turns over fine.What were your compression #'s? It won't turn over or it won't start?
Yes, it's kind of disassembled right now, but those are all closed when I'm turning it over. The brake booster does connect to the intake. Yes the intake had a puddle of fuel in it. I know it will not run if flooded, but it should try to fire before it floods right? I might have a carb issue, but not bad enough to cause it to not even try to fire imo.If you remove the carb. did you have fuel in the intake manifold? I guess you did.
Just try to figure out why you have compression but no vacuum.
Maybe re-clean the carb and check all possible "open" ports in the intake manifold and carb.
Does this need to be open? Does the brake booster connect to the intake manifold?
View attachment 3447030
My 2f would not start if I had a puddle of fuel in the intake. I have removed carb many times. I have re-clean carb and installed a new gasket. It has an issue with the idle mixture adjusting screw. Cab. empty after approximately 1 hour (all fuel goes in the intake). After replacing the screw it starts and I am able to set 650rpm.Yes, it's kind of disassembled right now, but those are all closed when I'm turning it over. The brake booster does connect to the intake. Yes the intake had a puddle of fuel in it. I know it will not run if flooded, but it should try to fire before it floods right? I might have a carb issue, but not bad enough to cause it to not even try to fire imo.