FJ40 what did I break?? (2 Viewers)

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Looks like there was oil at some point up top.
 
whats the bottom of dist look like ?

image.jpg
 
At this point turn it over by hand and watch valves 1 at a time to see if they are all working, stop with #1 firing at TDC, take plug out to verify TDC, both valves closed and check timing , it may be a much simpler problem than suspected ? fuel delivery possibly ? I am not familiar enough to know but I have never heard of a timing chain slipping on these, if there is a timing mark and you can verify TDC on comp stroke ( both valves closed ) you may be able to tell if it has slipped.
 
With limited evidence regarding the "crime scene", SWAGs run rampant.

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" I was able to turn it back and forth by hand and free it up" Crankshaft or distributor?

Have you gotten the distributor seated, so additional cranking won't exacerbate the situation?

verified spark, Spark plugs spark?

fuel middle of carburetor sight glass?

compression. values by cylinder?

I noticed that the fuel from the carb was just kind of pooling in the intake manifold and getting to the pistons. Flooded engines typically won't start.

I checked and I have zero vacuum while cranking. Carburetor throat plugged off? all spark plugs removed? There's a lot more vacuum on an engine running at 600 rpm.

I was thinking maybe when it froze I broke the timing gear? If you crank it with the plugs out, do the push rods move?
 
With limited evidence regarding the "crime scene", SWAGs run rampant.

View attachment 3446712

" I was able to turn it back and forth by hand and free it up" Crankshaft or distributor?

Have you gotten the distributor seated, so additional cranking won't exacerbate the situation?

verified spark, Spark plugs spark?

fuel middle of carburetor sight glass?

compression. values by cylinder?

I noticed that the fuel from the carb was just kind of pooling in the intake manifold and getting to the pistons. Flooded engines typically won't start.

I checked and I have zero vacuum while cranking. Carburetor throat plugged off? all spark plugs removed? There's a lot more vacuum on an engine running at 600 rpm.

I was thinking maybe when it froze I broke the timing gear? If you crank it with the plugs out, do the push rods move?
Yes distributor is seated
Pulled plugs and sparked them on engine block
Fuel in carb is halfway
Compression - pulled plugs and used my gauge one at a time.
I was definitely flooding, I’m just not sure why. I would clean up the mess and try again and never got to even try.
I haven’t cranked it with the plugs out yet.
 
Unless I missed it, you don't say that you have verified/reset the timing. All the engine need to kick off is spark, compression, air and fuel. I have "started" engines with no carb. Just a bit of fuel puddled in the manifold and they will kick over. But the spark has to be at the right time no matter what. Since you had a distributor issue, I assume that you have dicked around with it some. Did you make sure your timing is set correctly?



Mark...
 
^^ what mark said
You need to check rod and crank journals. might be ok might not

Story just for fun:
I had the timing chain tensioner fail in my '93 FZJ80 while towing on the highway, looked down and 0 oil pressure. Don't know how long, but crank journals survived (bearings were showing wear). I rolled in new crank and rod bearings with engine in the truck and drove it several more years and sold it, the truck is still on the road today (don't know if it ever required more work).
 
Unless I missed it, you don't say that you have verified/reset the timing. All the engine need to kick off is spark, compression, air and fuel. I have "started" engines with no carb. Just a bit of fuel puddled in the manifold and they will kick over. But the spark has to be at the right time no matter what. Since you had a distributor issue, I assume that you have dicked around with it some. Did you make sure your timing is set correctly?



Mark...
Yes I have verified timing several times now.
 
Yes I have verified timing several times now.
I have verified five times and at all times, I set it at 180 degrees wrong... crank.. no start.. flooding... until it backfired.. and the muffler exploded
a good lesson for me
 
I have verified five times and at all times, I set it at 180 degrees wrong... crank.. no start.. flooding... until it backfired.. and the muffler exploded
a good lesson for me
Yeah trust me I’ve dome some crazy stuff trying to fix this thing. But for the timing I verified TDC on compression stroke, stabbed the distributor rotor pointed to piston #4 and #1 on the cap, then when it didn’t turn over, just to verify, I swapped the distributor wires 1 to 6, 5 to 2 and 3 to 4, and still got nothing. Didn’t even try to fire. Nada.
 
What were your compression #'s? It won't turn over or it won't start?
 
If you have the dist installed correctly, all you should have to do is move the dist to the correct timing. You have spark and compression, I suspect you have a fuel problem.
 
If you remove the carb. did you have fuel in the intake manifold? I guess you did.
Just try to figure out why you have compression but no vacuum.
Maybe re-clean the carb and check all possible "open" ports in the intake manifold and carb.

Does this need to be open? Does the brake booster connect to the intake manifold?

BC6F22ED-56A7-45A5-A2F2-006A2ECD0874.jpeg
 
Have you checked your oil level? Maybe you lost half a tank of fuel into your sump?
Oil pressure sender working ok?
 
If you remove the carb. did you have fuel in the intake manifold? I guess you did.
Just try to figure out why you have compression but no vacuum.
Maybe re-clean the carb and check all possible "open" ports in the intake manifold and carb.

Does this need to be open? Does the brake booster connect to the intake manifold?

View attachment 3447030
Yes, it's kind of disassembled right now, but those are all closed when I'm turning it over. The brake booster does connect to the intake. Yes the intake had a puddle of fuel in it. I know it will not run if flooded, but it should try to fire before it floods right? I might have a carb issue, but not bad enough to cause it to not even try to fire imo.
 
So the engine seizing is no longer a concern?

If you damaged any bearings, getting it to run will ensure they are toast and could take the crank with them.
 
Yes, it's kind of disassembled right now, but those are all closed when I'm turning it over. The brake booster does connect to the intake. Yes the intake had a puddle of fuel in it. I know it will not run if flooded, but it should try to fire before it floods right? I might have a carb issue, but not bad enough to cause it to not even try to fire imo.
My 2f would not start if I had a puddle of fuel in the intake. I have removed carb many times. I have re-clean carb and installed a new gasket. It has an issue with the idle mixture adjusting screw. Cab. empty after approximately 1 hour (all fuel goes in the intake). After replacing the screw it starts and I am able to set 650rpm.
 
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