Fitting 37"s on my FJ80 (lots of Pictures)

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Patiently waiting for pictures. :smokin:

Do you have a build thread? I am interested in seeing the rest of your 80 but don't feel like driving to Pismo again...

No build thread as of yet. I thought you were supposed to be mostly done with the build before you started a ROTW?
Anyways, got it buttoned up today and took it out for a flex run.
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As you can see there is room for 38's once you get the metal out of the way!
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Flexing it on a curb
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Yes it is possible to stuff a 38" tire in these wells (once they've been manipulated by your friendly sheet metal god)
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Why are my pants getting tighter?????
 
Nice work!

No build thread as of yet.

Sweet setup! have fun getting a couple hundred skulls touched up... :grinpimp:

When you get build thread or sheet metal project thread going can I see the seam/how it was folded/cut etc.. in the rear?

Good thing I have a quart of bedliner left. I will be cutting the rears soon too. rubbed in pismo. apparently I was leaving little smoke puffs (from the tires) behind as I drove around:D

Thanks
Adam
 
No build thread as of yet. I thought you were supposed to be mostly done with the build before you started a ROTW?
Anyways, got it buttoned up today and took it out for a flex run.


As you can see there is room for 38's once you get the metal out of the way!



Flexing it on a curb


Yes it is possible to stuff a 38" tire in these wells (once they've been manipulated by your friendly sheet metal god)



Why are my pants getting tighter?????

Man that is one bad looking truck!:smokin:
 
Sweet setup! have fun getting a couple hundred skulls touched up... :grinpimp:

When you get build thread or sheet metal project thread going can I see the seam/how it was folded/cut etc.. in the rear?

Good thing I have a quart of bedliner left. I will be cutting the rears soon too. rubbed in pismo. apparently I was leaving little smoke puffs (from the tires) behind as I drove around:D

Thanks
Adam

I made the skull stencils, so the touch ups will be fast and easy. I didn't take enough pictures of the seam work. My friend does hot rod sheetmetal for a living - so he removed the outer fender lip, cut off 3.5" of fender and then rewelded the lip. On the inner he cut it off flush and then added flat sheetmetal to meet the outer fender. He actually drilled holes and reused the factory bolts!!!! Genius.

We also removed the bottom corners of the radiator core support and then capped the cuts with sheet metal to make it all look clean. I'll borrow the wife's camera and start a thread soon.

I KNEW you would rub at Pismo, hell my 35's would smoke on an easy day out there. . . :D
 
Finally Got the Radflos on... pictures to come

Just a follow up. I added 1" rear spacer and installed Radflos on all four corners The truck is nice and flexy at low speed... It does take some getting used too. but after three days of daily driving I feel good about the extra flex... We are headed out to Ridgecrest, ca high desert area in 2 weeks and I will really get a feel for it there... Feedback and pictures to come soon :steer:
 
sethzilla, what sliders are those? thanks
 
Finally Got some pics with the radflos on... love them

The radflos are great on and off road. I am happy with the performance. It took me a couple of long drives to get used to them. The ride is a lot smoother on the freeway and bumps/potholes etc... which makes for more restful long drivers to the trail head.

Note: There is no more rubbing the rear as I experienced in Pismo. Could this be attributed to the shocks?

The one issue I have that can be easily addressed is that radflo only provided one bushing (the rubber piece that sits between the shock and reservioir). I had an issue with the reservoirs twisting on both sides... The front reservoirs both twisted out at the base towards the tires and started to rub the tires after a week in the desert over washboard roads. Im just glad I caught it before one of the lugs took the reservoir off!!! :eek: I will be contacting them and ordering two more. The tires only rubbed at full lock but I am still not okay with this. I feel an extra bushing 2 per side - one top and bottom will keep them in place. I dont want to adjust the steering stops but may have to do this as well 1/4" is all it should take. Will keep updating as I come across things on this setup.

Note: you can see the bushing I am reffering to in the first picture. It is between the shock and reservoir and has the hose clamp running through a channel on it.

All in all very happy with radflos. :) I defiantly appreciate LT's input and info on this setup. Thanks Man!

Not the greatest pics but check out the shocks... Looks badarss!!

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And for persepective here is my 80 sitting next to my Hundy. The 100 series has 2.5" OME... I now feel like I am drving a low rider in the 100 and think it may be time for SAS on the 100 with an equivalent lift, bumpers, tires..... Here we go again :D

Radflo%20(5).JPG
 
I found that lowering the bushing to the bottom 1/4 of the resi body eliminated the movement on the FJC rear, but think two would be better, too.

Sure there's a reason for one, but I can't see it.

Considering remotes for the 80 Radflo's for a number of reasons, one being an effort to minimize the shock body from spinning, which can put resi in a contact path.

Was there a reason you went with the piggy backs over remotes?
 
Shock observations and feedback fitting the Radflos

I found that lowering the bushing to the bottom 1/4 of the resi body eliminated the movement on the FJC rear, but think two would be better, too.

Sure there's a reason for one, but I can't see it.

Considering remotes for the 80 Radflo's for a number of reasons, one being an effort to minimize the shock body from spinning, which can put resi in a contact path.

Was there a reason you went with the piggy backs over remotes?

Huh...:hhmm: I would have tried that but checked back on the thread a little to late, I already ordered the second bushings this am.

As for the piggy backs. - Don't do this unless you are expanding the inner fender linings like i did in the previous part of this post. Go Remote its what I should have done. I had to modify my inner fenders to get the reservoir to fit high enough to where the tires wouldnt rub. Right now they only rub if they tweak and the second bushing will fix that.

If and when the shocks need servicing I will send them back and have longer lines installed and go remote if I experience any more issues.

The shocks have not turned at all. I have put 1,000 miles paved driving and over 300 on trails. I marked the shock and the shock tower as I was concerned about this... and still am. So far the shock has not turned on the shaft exposing the reservoir to the tire. As a matter of fact I beleive the reservoir would contact the fender inner linner and stop the shock from turning due to the piggy back setup. Not ideal but better than the reservoir bouncing down the road behind me. Again, the reality is it has not turned at all so this may be a non issue?

If it is helpful I will snap a picture of the inner fender linning when I get home so you can see where I modified the radius to fit the reservoir.
 
luv the 37's without any trimming ... baktasht please update us with fabrication, availability , pricing on them , wantthe spacers and wheels !!!!
 
luv the 37's without any trimming ... baktasht please update us with fabrication, availability , pricing on them , wantthe spacers and wheels !!!!
Will do.
 
Radflo fitment with Piggy back setup

Pics may help the masses and I'd be curious to see.

I'd already planned remote due to experience on the FJC, mostly the very close confines the piggy mounts in, and close proximity to moving parts.

Here are the pics.

1. You can see the piggy back setup from further back in this one. Each photo gets progressively closer to show the fender bend needed to fit this setup.

shock%20fitment%20(4).JPG


2. If you look at the fender it flares out on top to allow the reservoir to fit piggy back style. I cut the section of rubber dust shield that was here. There is approx 1/4" between the reservoir and the shock tower on the backside an approximatley 1/2" between the fender and reservoir on the outside (shown here)

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3. This is really up close. I have to do a little smoothing of the sheet metal and paint to match for cosmetic reasons.

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4. Lastly here is a shot of the whole reservoir. You can see where it has rubbed the tire when it vibrated out diagonally and touched the tire. As metnioned in a previous post I have another hose clamp/rubber spacer on order to keep it aligned vertically. The two clamps (one top and one bottom) will keep it from twisting and give me a 1/2 inch of clearance between the tire and the reservoir when tires are at 12 psi.

Note: With 200 miles driven since I aligned the reservoir last vertically it has shifted the base inwards towards the engine compartment and the top of the reservoir outwards away from the shock. IMHO the front shocks ordered in the piggy back setup should be shipped with a top and bottom rubber spacers and hose clamps to prevent this.

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Hose Run Location Radflos

Agree on dual clamps being a simple fix.

Personally, will still opt for remote and mount to a resi bracket.


I think you were asking where is the hose in the deleted post?

The hose is behind the fender and comes out of the shock in a banjo fitting. My skills in photo shop :D allowed me to draw the fittings green and the hose in red. If anyone has anything to say about my drawing let me preemptively say :flipoff2: :grinpimp:

Hose.jpg
 
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