Builds First Toyota... 1983 FJ60 (3 Viewers)

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Drove the cruiser down to the farm today. Came home and started tearing her apart. Seems like the engine bay is missing some things

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Definitely missing some stuff under there. Desmog was performed without following the tried and true method found on MUD. Not sure how much you know about it? But there is a Weber Carb. The Toyota Aisin is preferred. You are missing the charcoal canister, and PCV circuit as well as many other valve operated things. I am not familiar with the Weber carb install so that stuff might be typical of running that. Those U-bolt Flip kits are a nice upgrade. Still a great rig with lots of potential.
 
Couple of questions got this group….

Why is there not a terminal spot for a fuse to control the dash lights?

Is reposition the rust worth the effort and cost?

I’m perplexed on what do do about it

Thanks
 
4runner2FJ60 said:
Definitely missing some stuff under there. Desmog was performed without following the tried and true method found on MUD. Not sure how much you know about it? But there is a Weber Carb. The Toyota Aisin is preferred. You are missing the charcoal canister, and PCV circuit as well as many other valve operated things. I am not familiar with the Weber carb install so that stuff might be typical of running that. Those U-bolt Flip kits are a nice upgrade. Still a great rig with lots of potential.
Click to expand...
I’ve read different views on the Weber carbs. Apparently there are low end Weber carbs that are cheaply made then there are high end ones. I’m going to check model number to confirm which one I have and make a decision based off that
 
chandlerhayes01 said:
Couple of questions got this group….

Why is there not a terminal spot for a fuse to control the dash lights?

Is reposition the rust worth the effort and cost?

I’m perplexed on what do do about it

Thanks
Click to expand...
Could there be an issue with the rheostat dimmer switch?
 
worry about the body rust and dents later. But, keep checking the classified section including the parting out section for a replacement tailgate and bumpers instead of trying to do body work there. Many other issues more important and body work is not going to fail you on a state inspection. You're immediate need is to keep an eye on the oil level. And if it is a significant drop you will have to find and fix the leak. They typically leak at the rear main seal but usually this is a small leak. It will come out at the rear of the oil pan or the bell housing/clutch housing. Another area is the lifter side cover on the passenger side. Also you will need bushings for the springs but probably the pins are corroded and shot as well. I see some writing on the top of the spring, find out if they are OME or whatever brand and find the correct bushings. Check with @cruiseroutfit aka Cruiser Outfitters for help with this. Agreed that it would be better to find stock OEM Aisin hubs. Looks like some kind of wonky spacers behind the lug nuts. Is that there because someone put different brake calipers and didn't want the wheel to rub? or just wanted a wider stance? Either way I'd try and get rid of them. That dizzy is NOT stock either. But hey if it's working for you leave it for now.
 
g-man said:
worry about the body rust and dents later. But, keep checking the classified section including the parting out section for a replacement tailgate and bumpers instead of trying to do body work there. Many other issues more important and body work is not going to fail you on a state inspection. You're immediate need is to keep an eye on the oil level. And if it is a significant drop you will have to find and fix the leak. They typically leak at the rear main seal but usually this is a small leak. It will come out at the rear of the oil pan or the bell housing/clutch housing. Another area is the lifter side cover on the passenger side. Also you will need bushings for the springs but probably the pins are corroded and shot as well. I see some writing on the top of the spring, find out if they are OME or whatever brand and find the correct bushings. Check with @cruiseroutfit aka Cruiser Outfitters for help with this. Agreed that it would be better to find stock OEM Aisin hubs. Looks like some kind of wonky spacers behind the lug nuts. Is that there because someone put different brake calipers and didn't want the wheel to rub? or just wanted a wider stance? Either way I'd try and get rid of them. That dizzy is NOT stock either. But hey if it's working for you leave it for now.
Click to expand...
Dizzy? Thanks for the input. I will keep my eye out for part outs. I ordered some aisin hubs. They are old man emu springs. I ordered new bushings last night.
 
g-man said:
worry about the body rust and dents later. But, keep checking the classified section including the parting out section for a replacement tailgate and bumpers instead of trying to do body work there. Many other issues more important and body work is not going to fail you on a state inspection. You're immediate need is to keep an eye on the oil level. And if it is a significant drop you will have to find and fix the leak. They typically leak at the rear main seal but usually this is a small leak. It will come out at the rear of the oil pan or the bell housing/clutch housing. Another area is the lifter side cover on the passenger side. Also you will need bushings for the springs but probably the pins are corroded and shot as well. I see some writing on the top of the spring, find out if they are OME or whatever brand and find the correct bushings. Check with @cruiseroutfit aka Cruiser Outfitters for help with this. Agreed that it would be better to find stock OEM Aisin hubs. Looks like some kind of wonky spacers behind the lug nuts. Is that there because someone put different brake calipers and didn't want the wheel to rub? or just wanted a wider stance? Either way I'd try and get rid of them. That dizzy is NOT stock either. But hey if it's working for you leave it for now.
Click to expand...
Can the rear main be replaced with the inspection cover off and the oil pan dropped? Or does the trans need to be pulled out?
 
chandlerhayes01 said:
I imagine that will lead to other projects 😂
Click to expand...
Yes, like rebuilding the transfer case, replacing the pilot bearing and throw out bearing, re-surfacing the flywheel, replacing the clutch, and a new oil pan gasket if you go that route.
 
That last image is from a right hand drive vehicle. USA version will be on the other side. it is a on/off and dial up type switch. I'm sure you could pull it and ohm test it. Before that, make sure the wiring behind it is tight and the white wire is going to ground. I've never had one fail. Also you could pull the instrument cluster and make sure the wiring connections are tight and the bulbs are good. might as well get some LED's to replace them while your there. The hardest part of pulling the instrument cluster is getting your speedo cable loose. You have to get a thumb nail on it and press the release while you pull it out. It just snaps back in when your ready to go back.
 
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If you click on my build thread in my signature line, you can see a post where I reference some green led's that I bought off of Amazon pretty cheap. And they have lasted and are much brighter.
 
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