First time pig owner/LS swap.

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Welcome to the obsession. Pigs are a rare breed and getting rarer. Stick with an OEM carb or consider a Sniper fuel injection. There's a lot of knowledge and resources in this group - just ask away. One of the replies is bound to be right - so you'll solve your problem eventually.

Oh, and buy a Silver Star so you can post pics and support the site.
 
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Thanks guys. I left a message with Mark. I am sort of in a hurry only because i need to be able to shuffle cars in my driveway. What’s unfortunate is when I dropped it off it only had a minor hiccup when accelerating and now it’s dead. Won’t even get up to speed. I replaced the coil,plugs,wires,regapped the points, and it is for sure getting fuel and spark. I feel like maybe it’s just getting too much fuel when it’s not supposed to. In neutral it won’t climb rpm. I don’t have a tach but I feel like it won’t rev past 2k
 
Try the phone number in his profile or on his website. He's a phone guy and excellent at what he does.

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yea...phone call is best for Mark.

So how is the timing? Did the mechanic pull the distributor for any reason?
Were the 2 carb and insulator gaskets replaced when the carb was put back on?
Is this engine 'desmogged'? If not, do that first. Post a pic of the engine bay.
Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, spraying it gently around all leak points with engine running.
Once its running OK, I recommend installing a Pertronix ignition kit to remove the points
Fresh fuel filter? Rusty gas tank?
 
So many problems running an old vehicle that hasn’t had a basic go through of ALL systems before you try and enjoy it. Fuel tank should be the starting point of any old car being put into service. Then working your way to the carb and having it built by someone who has experience with THAT brand carb.
Hang in there! Keep digging and don’t get discouraged just know the punishment keeps coming. 😂
 
onemanarmy said:
yea...phone call is best for Mark.

So how is the timing? Did the mechanic pull the distributor for any reason?
Were the 2 carb and insulator gaskets replaced when the carb was put back on?
Is this engine 'desmogged'? If not, do that first. Post a pic of the engine bay.
Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, spraying it gently around all leak points with engine running.
Once its running OK, I recommend installing a Pertronix ignition kit to remove the points
Fresh fuel filter? Rusty gas tank?
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onemanarmy said:
yea...phone call is best for Mark.

So how is the timing? Did the mechanic pull the distributor for any reason?
Were the 2 carb and insulator gaskets replaced when the carb was put back on?
Is this engine 'desmogged'? If not, do that first. Post a pic of the engine bay.
Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, spraying it gently around all leak points with engine running.
Once its running OK, I recommend installing a Pertronix ignition kit to remove the points
Fresh fuel filter? Rusty gas tank?
Click to expand...
Once I get it towed home I’ll get started in Al of that. It’s at Trader Joe’s 😂
 
onemanarmy said:
Is this engine 'desmogged'? If not, do that first.
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Pretty sure they will run fine with or without the OEM smog equipment. Maybe something to consider but pretty sure I would start with the basics (fuel tank, filter, carb, etc.).
 
yea...a functioning smog system is not a hindrance.....but sensors get broken, the miles of vacuum hose crack, air pump becomes inefficient.

In NC we don't have safety/emission inspections on cars older than 35 years....so if it were me, I'd eliminate as many pain points as possible while under the hood (but keep the parts for others or the future gov't heavy hand)

@silveradofab you might want to check that the vacuum advance on the distributor is working too.
 
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silveradofab said:
**UPDATE**
So just got the 55 back from the mechanic, who rebuilt the carb, and it’s not better. Worse actually. Bummer
I went into it knowing it was a risk to try and rebuild the factory carb. I was hoping to keep it original. Now I guess I’m buying a Weber.
Still haven’t really been able to drive this thing yet and I’m determined to get it ready for our local land cruiser clubs meet in Uwharrie.
Suggestions on a replacement carb?
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The Weber will not be an upgrade.
Either your guy did not rebuild properly, or the problem lies elsewhere - fuel pump, lines, tank, etc.
 
Here are some photos of the engine bay focusing on the EVAP smog stuff. The photo where I’m holding a line is the vacuum advance. I pulled the plugs to day and did a dry compression test and I got 120psi across all cylinders. The plugs were all black and a few looked wet. My next step is to get an inline fuel pressure gauge before carb to confirm FP. I know it’s getting fuel due to the filter being clear and the float sight is correct. I’m ordering new points as well just to make sure. He is supposed to take the truck back on Wednesday to pull the carb back apart.
Side note. Ran into this guy driving his clean 55 today. Crazy how I’ve never seen him before as he lives 1 mile from my house.

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Nice...I see that red 55 occasionally.

So you have a Weber carb now? It's probably half 'desmogged' now due to the weber not having the same connections as the stock Aisin.

In the pic showing the side of the carb (3rd pic)....looks like RTV was used at the base of the carb and is that a phillips head screw plugging a vacuum port to the left in the pic?

I'd focus on timing and vacuum leaks. You should only need 2 or 3 vacuum lines to run properly.
 
bobm said:
Johnny Overtorque worked on that carb. Look at all the stripped screws with vise grip marks on the side of the screws. Rebuild it or have someone do it 4 you.
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Gordobe said:
Throwing parts at a carburetor vs. a professional rebuild are two different animals.
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I’m not sure what you are referring to. It’s been professionally rebuilt most recently. He is going to pull it apart again and triple check tomorrow. Hopefully it’s something obvious
 
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