First Time Pig "Build"

[Delancy]

At some point in the past, this was advertised as having a factory PTO winch, if that matters to the OE horn placement.

I'm pulling the PTO and won't have a winch on this one.

 

[Delancy]

Is it any surprise USPS is losing money?



Bet the 4 one rate boxes I got from Georg weigh 100lbs or more.

Didn't get to fully dig in, but didn't see any hub dials in the first two boxes. Going to start cleaning it all up tomorrow, to see what I've got.

Also, I put the same brand TREs on the 80 that I bought very early on from MAF at the same time I bought the tie rod/drag link, thinking I was buying OE.



They've rusted beyond anything else on the 80 and wondering if its safe to assume that OEs would too.

If not, I'll opt for Toyota on the Pig. Hate rust, especially when it's on new parts that are replacing parts that are +15 years old, and not rusty.

Have cleaved most everything on other builds with Simple Green.

Any reason that's not a good idea?

Can all similar components paint with Eastwoods products? To match everything else?

 

[tucker74]

Also, I put the same brand TREs on the 80 that I bought very early on from MAF at the same time I bought the tie rod/drag link, thinking I was buying OE.

They've rusted beyond anything else on the 80 and wondering if its safe to assume that OEs would too.

If not, I'll opt for Toyota on the Pig. Hate rust, especially when it's on new parts that are replacing parts that are +15 years old, and not rusty.

Those are raw steel, you can hit them with some clear spray paint and they won't do that ... the actual TRE is as good as OEM (which you had to buy as the whole rods, but can't get anymore). I remember when I rebuilt my 40 axles with 60 stuff and how mad I was with myself for not doing that on the new calipers which flash rusted the first rain :-(

Tucker

 

[Boss Hog]

Also, really wanted to salvage the front and rear bumpers, but that may be stupidity talking.

Is this worth the time to straighten?

Or swap and be done with it?[/QUOTE]

I've got a set that may work for you-front and rear pretty straight. I'll send you pics tonite & we can discuss on pm.

 

[Delancy]

Those are raw steel, you can hit them with some clear spray paint and they won't do that ...

Didn't think of that on the 80.

What kind of clear paint (??) have you found works best?

Be just as well to mask and paint black?

Honestly, installed the MAF sourced 555s knowing that they might not be on there long and would swap to OEs or 1 tons. (entertained high steer knuckles and hydro. hydro.....eventually, but keep the current rods.)

While I'm thinking of it and since we can expect that 80 parts will be NLA in the coming years, going to ask Onur if TREs are available apart from rods.

the actual TRE is as good as OEM

I might beg to differ, but......

On 80.

OEs were tight when I pulled and probably could've been reused (106k).

555s show slack at (113k) in the gearbox pitman arm. Not much and it's the only TRE I've separated (many times, unfortunately) but was disappointed in.

That said, the 80 had the OE tires on it when I bought it and 37s in the rocks may be harder on, but would've thought I could get more than 7k.

(which you had to buy as the whole rods, but can't get anymore).

Would it be lunacy to buy known good OE 60 TREs?

I remember when I rebuilt my 40 axles with 60 stuff and how mad I was with myself for not doing that on the new calipers which flash rusted the first rain :-(

Tucker

I didn't clear coat or paint the new 80 calipers when I installed them and the new, nor the old I removed, were rusted.

Is this an issue with 60 calipers only?

I've not purchased yet, but on my list that's been in Onur's inbox for a while, are loaded 60 reman calipers.

Would I be better to source used, paint/coat, the rebuild?

That leads into a previously posed question that in trying to figure out, now.

Have various components (knuckles, battery box, intake, calipers) that I'd like to start prepping and painting/coating. Nothing crazy, but a semi-gloss or flat (matte) black.

My concern is, I'd like for all parts to match in every respect (as OE-ish as feasible) being the frame rails, axle housings...well, everything and I don't know the best means to accomplish that.

Have grandiose ideas of dipping, possibly galvanizing, then coating the frame.

Should all else be similarly done?

At the same time to guarantee continuity?

I've seen so many different processes, I've confused myself.

Have all intentions of mimicking scrapdaddy's body panel coatings, but unsure if I'm over thinking the rest.

 

[Delancy]

I've got a set that may work for you-front and rear pretty straight. I'll send you pics tonite & we can discuss on pm.

Cool.

I posed a scenario on the part out thread, too, regarding the cargo floor. Hopefully, someone will want parts of the shell that I don't, thats local enough to pick up the balance, for no out of pocket money.

I'd prefer to not patch the rear floor of mine, since it's going to cost more than $200 to do it, matching the outer edge of each sides ribs, so be an ideal situation for me to pay the $200 for entire shell, with stipulation to who ever picks up to pull the rear floor panels in one piece, package them, and drop off at a FedEx Ground using my account to ship to me.

 

[Delancy]

Have word in with Onur to see what is and isn't available, but this is what I'm thinking, correct where my thinking errs.

If the 60 series tie rod and drag link are available still and the only way to get the OE TREs, why can't I buy and shorten to the 55 length I'll need?

Plan was to ream the 55 pitman to 60 size, since power steering has been axed, keeping all TREs 60, then having Georg fab steering rods to length.

I'm assuming the 60 stuff is longer, so why can't I cut it down and run instead?

 

[crushers]

40.55. 70 all share the same cross link measurement
sadly, the earlier 40/55 uses smaller ties than the later version.
you could swap a later 40 series front diff in (1981 and newer) and then the arms off the 70 series and you will have a bolt up cross link.
if you do that then you can add 60 series PS and you will now have the drag link from the 70 series that is the proper length and HD upper arms.
you can get brand new cross and drag links C?W ties from Toyota, this is what i did on the 42 for PS upgrade.
this way the only mods to the steering is the connecting from the steering box to the steering wheel.
just a suggestion.

 

[Delancy]

40.55. 70 all share the same cross link measurement

Would you know if the 60 was longer than the 55?

Onur said Toyota doesn't publish the assembled lengths.

sadly, the earlier 40/55 uses smaller ties than the later version.

Going to run 60 knuckles out, so 60 TREs, just have to ream the 55 steering arm to accept the 60 TRE, to keep all similar ends. Figured better than a hodge podge of 60 ends, with (1) 55 end.

Per Onur

"You can get the 80 TREs separate from the rod or together. The 60 TREs only come with the rods."

Going to order 80 TREs and swap on the 80. Problem solved.

Thinking of ordering the 60 complete rods with OE TREs. If they're not long enough, pull TREs and sell with the 555s, or something to recoup expense.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Would you know if the 60 was longer than the 55?

.

yes, 60 is longer because the axle is 3" wider

if you cut the rod down, cut the right side... a right hand tap will be cheaper than left hand. still wont' be cheap tho.

 

[PabloCruise]

At some point in the past, this was advertised as having a factory PTO winch, if that matters to the OE horn placement.

I'm pulling the PTO and won't have a winch on this one.

Sign me up! Ill take the frame extensions if you are not going to use them!

I'll drop you a PM...

 

[Delancy]

yes, 60 is longer because the axle is 3" wider

if you cut the rod down, cut the right side... a right hand tap will be cheaper than left hand.

Be hard to determine length before getting all the 60 components on, right?

Or would y'all have a length that I could shorten to in advance of any surgery?

 

[Delancy]

Sign me up! Ill take the frame extensions if you are not going to use them!

I'll drop you a PM...

Replied. All yours.

 

[crushers]

if you use 60 or 70 series knuckles then you can just order the 70 series cross links with ties and be done with it.

 

[tucker74]

if you use 60 or 70 series knuckles then you can just order the 70 series cross links with ties and be done with it.

X2 - they will be the correct width

Tucker

 

[Delancy]

Using 60 knuckles, but need the 70 tie rods and drag link?

 

[nuclearlemon]

if you use 60 or 70 series knuckles then you can just order the 70 series cross links with ties and be done with it.

wayne, do the 70 series rod ends come with the rods like the 40 series? i don't need them, just curious.

 

[tucker74]

Using 60 knuckles, but need the 70 tie rods and drag link?

'79+ "large pattern" knuckles were the same for 40/60/70/mini, the 70 series had the same width axles as 40/55s ... so yes in short. The 60 axles are 3" wider, meaning the tie rod and drag link are too long for your axles ..,

Tucker

 

[Delancy]

Gotcha.

70 series rods are what's suggested. They're short, like the 55, but use 60 series TREs that will work with all but the 55 center arm, which will be reamed to fit the 70/60 TRE.

Tidbit from a Classified Post:

Quality information taken from Cruiser Outfitters site just so everyone is on the same page:

Tech Tip: While all of your steering link ends are often referred to a 'tie rod ends', they actually have their own specific names. The rod that connects the passenger and drivers side knuckles/wheels is the tie-rod proper. The link connected to the steering box/gear is the drag-link and in the case of the 40 and 55 Series models, the link from the center-arm to the outer tie rod end is the relay-rod. 60 and 80 Series models don't feature a relay-rod rather a tie-rod and drag-link only.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Gotcha.

70 series rods are what's suggested. They're short, like the 55, but use 60 series TREs that will work with all but the 55 center arm, which will be reamed to fit the 70/60 TRE.

i thought you were doing 60 series ps. you don't use the relay rod and center arm with that.