First Time Pig "Build"

[crushers]

hummm, sounds like advice you heard earlier ... no?

 

[Delancy]

hummm, sounds like advice you heard earlier ... no?

Yes...I heard....but may not have listened...

All speculation until it's torn down and Bob's panels are sitting on the shop floor, along with front from Cruiser Corps.

Probably be Wednesday before much more is known. My goal is to have it in (epoxy) primer before the major mechanical is to commence.

All the thinking trying to figure out a procession that'd avoid tearing it down two to three times was for nothing. There's really no way I can see to do it especially after this meeting.

 

[crushers]

there is NO way to prevent rust from coming back, you can postpone it but it WILL come back.

best to start with no rust and work from there.

 

[Delancy]

there is NO way to prevent rust from coming back, you can postpone it but it WILL come back.

best to start with no rust and work from there.

Had anyone built a shell with nothing more than a rusty shell as a guide? (Let's disregard $$$$ talk, at this point. I know that'd be a fortune)

It's all individual panels in the FSM....

 

[scrapdaddy]

Crushers is right, the rust will come back. How you deal with it the first time, will dictate how long it takes, before it comes back. Ask your pro, how he would deal with it. Seems the only things you could do is sandblast and then dip the body in a stripper tank. Then, I beleive, they dip it in a rust preventive bath, before you paint and coat everything thing you can.

In other words, do what you can and then move on. Finish the wagon and don't use it in the Winter. Each year spray that Fluid Film in every panel, hole and crack. It will last a long time.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Had anyone built a shell with nothing more than a rusty shell as a guide?

everybody that's worked on a pig has done it with a rusty shell since i'm pretty sure the rust was installed at the factory and accelerated on the ship here.

 

[Camotubebender]

"Rust never sleeps"

 

[scrapdaddy]

everybody that's worked on a pig has done it with a rusty shell since i'm pretty sure the rust was installed at the factory and accelerated on the ship here.

I like it!

 

[Delancy]

Ask your pro, how he would deal with it.

The mark of a professional is being able to ascertain a client with only a few questions, then determining from there a preliminary course.

I was asked

"Flipping, keeping, or passing down to kids?"

Said passing down.

"On a scale of 1-10, what do you envision the finished project?"

Replied 7, knowing that 8-10 isn't achievable without reaching Icon $$$.

"What did you budget body work before paint at?"

My standard reply of "I don't budget anything, otherwise I might not do", was given.

I may have made a mistake in saying that my goal was to maintain as much of the original Pig, as possible..... Starting to think I may have made a mistake paying for the front clip, too, considering that wish, but also at the expense I paid, maybe should've invested in correcting what's there, considering the overall simplicity of that portion, compared to other deterioration.

Pro's a Mustang/Ford guy, which pleased bobm, has a lot of experience with high end resto's on those, but is also a life long buddy of a local buddy of mine, a Mudder...but in the Land Cruiser "business" and had worked on several 40s for.

Parts are everywhere for 40s, assuming everywhere for Mustangs.

Not the case of 55s.

I had already sent links to your thread with a general goal of similar substrate applications and he said that's a good idea, but will come much further down the road, so plenty of time to ponder.

Anyhow, believe the assessment is first, mostly to quantify the total body work scope, which should be this week, along with the patch panels and getting the front clip assessed, too.

I really don't know what I'm doing, so in a Pigheadish fashion, hoping Cruiser Karma fills in the gaps.

 

[Delancy]

everybody that's worked on a pig has done it with a rusty shell since i'm pretty sure the rust was installed at the factory and accelerated on the ship here.

Classic, again.,,,

"Rust never sleeps"

Hear that. I was disappointed enough in the undercarriage of an 08 Toy, that I wanted to strip it down and "do it right", but decided that semi-annual "paint all the frame days" make better sense.

The 80 will come down to the frame someday, but oddly it isn't as bad as the FJC.

The frame on the Pig is solid. The front frame rails are tweaked and bumped was bent, but only appears to be the outer six inches.

Regardless, it will see major rust preventative before all's said and done.

I like it!

X2.

 

[Delancy]

Very preliminary, but considering the pre-OP work commencing, asking for input on a few items to determine what additional work should be done, now.

I'm back to determining AC to be a must if I want to get more than a few months usage in OK. Not crazy about the appearance of what I've seen from an aesthetics standpoint, but little choice if I want to drive more than 5 months out of the year.

Brings several questions concerning the mechanicals, but have seen the combo units and they appear to be the way to go, but uneducated in that department.

Reason for asking is its the ideal time to patch the heater hole in firewall, because I don't want to regret not doing later, yet unsure if I should do it now, without a clear plan to achieve an install.

(Somewhat related: How do the AC kits adjust idle?).

Also, I don't believe any of this will remain on the DS inner



But not certain of that, so posing before cutting off and filling any unused holes.

Considering that she's going to remain relatively OE-ish, is there any other firewall of inner fender holes that should be deleted at this time?

The existing shocks were poked through the inner, but think the Radflo's will too. Should a 1 1/2-2" hole be considered above the shock tower in an effort to clean up?

 

[Delancy]

Also shoulder belts front and rear would make the Mrs. feel warm and fuzzy.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Delancy,

Here's the one I'm useing. http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/

Almost looks stock, heat and air

 

[crushers]

Vintage Air is crap ... stay away

 

[nuclearlemon]

The existing shocks were poked through the inner, but think the Radflo's will too. Should a 1 1/2-2" hole be considered above the shock tower in an effort to clean up?

just get a hole saw and drill a slightly larger round hole for a clean look

 

[tucker74]

I plan on going with the Street Rod Cooler II from here:

http://www.classicautoair.com/Street_Rod_Air_Conditioning_AC.html

Check out Matt's install somewhere in here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-club/104821-3-days-3300-miles-later.html

Or Gary's somewhere in here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/34899-project-x.html

Sorry for the two redonkulous threads to search through, but they both have super slick installs of this system It's the only one I've found small enough to have a chance under the tiny pig dash -

Tucker

 

[Delancy]

just get a hole saw and drill a slightly larger round hole for a clean look

I'm starting to sound a little petty huh?

Apologies. Starting to be more concerned about.

 

[nuclearlemon]

I'm starting to sound a little petty huh?

Apologies. Starting to be more concerned about.

naw, it drives me crazy seeing the punched up section. never understood why they put stud style shocks on. someone else posted a pic of the punch out drilled out and it looked very clean

 

[Delancy]

Delancy,

Here's the one I'm useing. http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/

Almost looks stock, heat and air

Assuming the 3100 with cables?

I couldn't find in your thread.

 

[Pighead]

Also, I don't believe any of this will remain on the DS inner

No, the little black box is the VSV for smog...you won't need that or it's bracket.