FatherSonSJ45 Troopy

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For a diesel the oil flowing through the turbo is enough. You do not need to change the turbo blank off plate and plumb for coolant lines. Heaps on this topic has been discussed in the diesel section. Roll with what you have.
 
Big fat bummer tonight. Got the plumbing parts I needed, drilled and tapped the manifolds for boost and EGT, drilled the heat shield to work, got some gasket maker on the oil tubing of the turbo and block, only to discover my turbo is clocked about 45* off! Uhg. Not sure how easy these are to clock, but really hope I don’t need to ship it back…

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Big fat bummer tonight. Got the plumbing parts I needed, drilled and tapped the manifolds for boost and EGT, drilled the heat shield to work, got some gasket maker on the oil tubing of the turbo and block, only to discover my turbo is clocked about 45* off! Uhg. Not sure how easy these are to clock, but really hope I don’t need to ship it back…

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Strange that it wasn't in the correct position, but you shouldn't need to ship it back. Clocking to the position you need "should" be straight forward. I'd hit them up for instructions, but also have a look at @FJBen 70 series build thread. If I remember correctly, he has some detailed info on clocking a Holset turbo that might be a good guide for you. His turbo fitment happened a few years ago so you'll have to do some digging, but should be some where around here:
 
Well I double checked with GTURBO to make sure I wasn’t going to void a warranty, I sent pics to them and they said they sent me the wrong turbo and will get a replacement expressed to me asap. WOW, impressive customer service! Had an email response in like 20 mins too.
 
Injectors are done and on the way back. Replacement turbo should be here Tuesday, and new intake hoses from PfDI should be here soon as well.

I went with a glow shift 3 in 1 gauge for EGT and boost, and picked up a diesel tach from them too. They’re not my favorite looking gauges out there, but they’re ok, and I’ve had good luck with them on prior trucks, so the value is really hard to beat.

I’ve been thinking a lot about where to mount them. I refuse to drill holes in my unmolested dash, so I’m really thinking about making something similar to the dash shelf that mckinnons cruisers makes, but with the gauge pod in front of the steering wheel. Looks like it could be pretty tricky, but a fun project.

40 Series Dash Shelf - https://www.mckinnonscruisers.com/collections/rims/products/40-series-dash-shelf?variant=42069003501646
 
Injectors are done and on the way back. Replacement turbo should be here Tuesday, and new intake hoses from PfDI should be here soon as well.

I went with a glow shift 3 in 1 gauge for EGT and boost, and picked up a diesel tach from them too. They’re not my favorite looking gauges out there, but they’re ok, and I’ve had good luck with them on prior trucks, so the value is really hard to beat.

I’ve been thinking a lot about where to mount them. I refuse to drill holes in my unmolested dash, so I’m really thinking about making something similar to the dash shelf that mckinnons cruisers makes, but with the gauge pod in front of the steering wheel. Looks like it could be pretty tricky, but a fun project.

40 Series Dash Shelf - https://www.mckinnonscruisers.com/collections/rims/products/40-series-dash-shelf?variant=42069003501646

Thanks for giving me yet another place to spend money on my cruiser.
 
Finally got everything back together this afternoon and went for a good test drive. Impressions are improvements all around.

Turbo- very subtle difference if any, and mostly felt up top. This is a great sign since I haven’t touching fueling and despite being a larger turbo, it spoils the same as the stocker. Haven’t hooked up EGT or boost gauges yet, but I didn’t have them before so nothing to compare to. It’s definitely louder, which is cool, but gets old..

Suspension- can certainly feel a decent improvement. It’s not a magic carpet ride by any means, but certainly softer. Potholes are definitely dampened but don’t disappear. Was maybe hoping for a bit more, but this needed doing and it’s better now for sure.

Injectors- smoothed out idle noticeably. I am getting some smoke though- whiteish gray, which looks like oil to me, not fuel. I can’t tell yet if I’m losing any oil, but I pulled the oil cap and it still has no blow by that I can feel with my hand nor does it pop the cap off at all. Maybe it just needs to burn some stuff off?

Brakes- wow. These are the star of the show. @cruisermatt these are phenomenal. I’m getting 20-25 in of vacuum to my new booster, so that was definitely leaking, but damn. They will put you through the windshield!

Only photo I really have.

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Just picked my boys up from school and they were stoked.

I can’t express really how good it feels to have this back on the road and have all of these major projects done. Since I bought it home at the end of December, I’ve swapped motors, replaced the fuel tank and fuel lines, completely replaced the suspension, completely overhauled the brakes (minus the rear drums), installed custom 80 series power steering, and various other little things. Pretty proud of myself!

Some new thoughts- maybe I jumped the gun a bit on spool, I think it’s a bit slower and boggy, but it likely just needs more fuel!

Really puzzled about the white gray smoke. Will keep an eye on things for sure.

The rear is now tall enough that it’s about 1/2in too tall to fit under my lift on the lowest lock setting! Dang!

Still have a ton of little things on the list, but man what a transformation, and it’s been awesome! I’m thrilled with this thing, and pretty sure I’m going to end up selling the 40 it’s so good.
 
Drove a bit more today, maybe 10 miles and the smoke has cleared up almost completely. Still get a little white haze at idle, and I can get black smoke if really giving it some pedal. It could certainly use some tuning.

On the motor front, I would like to quiet down the turbo some. It gets old quick. Funny enough you can really hear it coming from the passenger side of the engine where the intake is. Maybe an airbox would do the trick, but damn there’s just no room on that side.

I did pull the gauge cluster today to install my MPH conversion sticker and cleaned the odometer. I figured what the hell, might as well set it to 100kms since that’s about what I’ve put on it since I owned it. It wasn’t rolling before, so who knows how many kms past 140,000 it’s actually done. We’ll see how long it keeps rolling!

On aesthetics, I think I’m actually likening no hub caps, thoughts?

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If you’re taking a poll, I’d run with the hub caps. It’s the nostalgia factor. Regardless, it’s a very nice machine. 👍🏻
 
Well dang, only my 10ths is working still. It had been apart many times before, you could tell. Is there a good source for a replacement that isn’t Dakota digital?
 
I’d say yes to hubcaps if the wheels were a bit darker for more contrast. As it stands I’m leaning towards no hub caps.
 
white smoke “can” be a timing issue, it wouldn’t hurt to spill time it and make sure it’s all right just in terms of a “tune up” in general.

And yeah, get some more fuel to it and you’ll be amazed how it runs.

I can share info on the spill timing if you don’t know how to do that.

Here’s timing on a 12ht troopy




I don’t think you need to pull all that apart, radiator etc,

ake sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke. You can check this feeling the rocker arms.
(Might as well adjust valves while your in there)
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For 2nd round of valves.
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According to the manual, you then need to rotate the crank "back and forth" a little around TDC until you see fuel start coming out. Then slowly crank counterclockwise to get before the timing marks.
Next you slowly crank it clockwise while staring at the injector pipe. As soon as the fuel level comes up, stop moving the crank. Look at the crank pulley and see where the mark on the pulley is in relation to the pointer on the timing case.
Depending if the crank pulley mark is before or after the point is how much you are advanced or retarded on the timing. To fix that you loosen the bolts on the pump. Then rotate the injection pump towards the pump to advance, away to retard.
 
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