Sorry I guess I should have clarified...I meant about the Tundra brake conversion and associated parts.
FatherSonSJ45 Troopy
- Thread starter Kmehr
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- Thread starter
- #182
ahh yes that is correct. Someone copied an instagram post where his shop was installing a setup on a 60 series and I sent him an email about it.
So I went through this a few years ago with my 13bt, which is basically a 12ht minus 2 cylinders.
I rebuilt my 13bt and did injectors/pump and turbo. I rebuilt the stock turbo (which is wrong sized for a 13bt but you don’t have that issue.
The ct26 turbos on these are old tech. There have been great improvements for better responding turbos even doing it without a large performance gain. Not long after I upgraded my turbo and made a world of difference in drive-ability and performance. Looking back I should have just upgraded at the start.
You have a few options depending on how bolt on vs some mods you want. Kind of the gold standard for cruisers is Gturbo. Bolt on, levels of performance, the easy button but the most expensive. Nothing to think about, it’s all been figured out.
12H-T (60 Series) Archives - GTurbo - https://gturbo.com.au/product-category/gturbos-for-toyotas/gturbos-for-12ht-60-series/
Munro turbos has a good following as well out of Australia. Bolt on as well and plenty of options. I talked with them, great information. Website looks old but they are on Facebook/insta as well.
Landcruiser 4.2 Turbocharger High Flow - https://www.munroracingturbochargers.com.au/Landcruiser.CT26.html
Wink4x4 has one as well, however I’ve heard mixed results so I personally passed on them.
Other than that you have options of Holset HX series (I used an HE series) aftermarket IHI (TD0H series) that will take some adapters/buying supply/drain lines, exhaust adapters etc but “could” end up being a bit cheaper. I ended up around 60-70% the cost of a gturbo, but a whole lot more fiddling
As for idle, if I set mine to 800-850 it’s smooth. If it runs at the 650 the factory says, it’s more lumpy/vibrating. I had this same issue on an old H diesel as well. I just always idle or set it with the throttle to run up to 800ish.
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- #185
This is all very helpful info! I’m going to be very curious what the injector shop says about mine. It doesn’t take much rpm at all to smooth out, so that’s good to hear it’s not super abnormal. When I was cracking injector lines on initial bleed of the fuel system, a couple didn’t seem to have any impact at all on idle, and some had a profound impact. Should have written down which ones, but I know #3 was a culprit. Based on the looks of the injector bodies, I’m sure the inside looked pretty similar, so hopefully it’ll be smooth as glass with a rebuilt set.So I went through this a few years ago with my 13bt, which is basically a 12ht minus 2 cylinders.
I rebuilt my 13bt and did injectors/pump and turbo. I rebuilt the stock turbo (which is wrong sized for a 13bt but you don’t have that issue.
The ct26 turbos on these are old tech. There have been great improvements for better responding turbos even doing it without a large performance gain. Not long after I upgraded my turbo and made a world of difference in drive-ability and performance. Looking back I should have just upgraded at the start.
You have a few options depending on how bolt on vs some mods you want. Kind of the gold standard for cruisers is Gturbo. Bolt on, levels of performance, the easy button but the most expensive. Nothing to think about, it’s all been figured out.
12H-T (60 Series) Archives - GTurbo - https://gturbo.com.au/product-category/gturbos-for-toyotas/gturbos-for-12ht-60-series/
Munro turbos has a good following as well out of Australia. Bolt on as well and plenty of options. I talked with them, great information. Website looks old but they are on Facebook/insta as well.
Landcruiser 4.2 Turbocharger High Flow - https://www.munroracingturbochargers.com.au/Landcruiser.CT26.html
Wink4x4 has one as well, however I’ve heard mixed results so I personally passed on them.
Other than that you have options of Holset HX series (I used an HE series) aftermarket IHI (TD0H series) that will take some adapters/buying supply/drain lines, exhaust adapters etc but “could” end up being a bit cheaper. I ended up around 60-70% the cost of a gturbo, but a whole lot more fiddling
As for idle, if I set mine to 800-850 it’s smooth. If it runs at the 650 the factory says, it’s more lumpy/vibrating. I had this same issue on an old H diesel as well. I just always idle or set it with the throttle to run up to 800ish.
I’ve looked a little at the “gturbo alternative thread” but it’s like 150 pages at this point.
I’ve considered the HE221 and the HX30 super, but not tons of real world experience I can find, and yes, more fiddling. I know myself well enough to know that I’ll eventually not be able to leave power alone, but was hoping to get a little more time at bone stock power levels just to get things baselined. More research!
Yes the turbo rabbit hole is a big one! It really depends on budget and DYI skills. Honestly the Gturbo approach is by far the easiest. Proven, reliable and nothing to sort out.
Well technically you will want a bigger exhaust to help out….oh and potentially an intercooler Down the line and….
It shouldn’t be too hard to diy and math out what will fit and work.
Are you in Denver area? I lived about an hour north of Denver and still have a place there, so we were right at 5000’. That also has impact on the turbo performance and sizing. I’m about 2 1/2 hours away now but go back all the time.
I’m sure those injectors needed rebuilt. That will help out for sure. I had no baseline since I rebuilt everything at the same time.
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- #187
Thankfully I’ve already got a 3in exhaust. Intercooler, probably someday ha.Yes the turbo rabbit hole is a big one! It really depends on budget and DYI skills. Honestly the Gturbo approach is by far the easiest. Proven, reliable and nothing to sort out.
Well technically you will want a bigger exhaust to help out….oh and potentially an intercooler Down the line and….
It shouldn’t be too hard to diy and math out what will fit and work.
Are you in Denver area? I lived about an hour north of Denver and still have a place there, so we were right at 5000’. That also has impact on the turbo performance and sizing. I’m about 2 1/2 hours away now but go back all the time.
I’m sure those injectors needed rebuilt. That will help out for sure. I had no baseline since I rebuilt everything at the same time.
I’m in Colorado Springs at about 6,300ft. Definitely know the impact of elevation on spool from my old dodge Cummins tinkering days. Can’t say I had any complaints about turbo performance so far on the 12HT, just don’t want it sucking my engine oil dry!
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- #188
@cruisermatt to the rescue! The cheap dowel removal tool worked perfect. I certainly had my doubts, but back on track!
Have one side done and caliper loaded.
Also received my new front bumper from @OPMACHINE . Wow. What a piece!
Have one side done and caliper loaded.
Also received my new front bumper from @OPMACHINE . Wow. What a piece!
- Thread starter
- #189
Brake parts are all in! Just need to bleed. The wider stance from the machined hubs makes it real mean looking!
Plan is suspension tomorrow, then compression test. Going to let that help guide my turbo decision. Leaning heavily towards a billet compressor wheel and rebuild from driftmotion, or an HX30 super, which would require some additional work.
Plan is suspension tomorrow, then compression test. Going to let that help guide my turbo decision. Leaning heavily towards a billet compressor wheel and rebuild from driftmotion, or an HX30 super, which would require some additional work.
- Thread starter
- #190
Got the brakes bled today and the front springs in. Everything went pretty smoothly until I got to the back. All of the rear u-bolts are seized, so I’m cutting them.
Picked up right at 2in of lift up front. Will be interesting to see how much that settles, if any. Also noticed that my steering can hit itself upfront at full compression, so definitely need to extend the bump stops before any serious wheeling.
Picked up right at 2in of lift up front. Will be interesting to see how much that settles, if any. Also noticed that my steering can hit itself upfront at full compression, so definitely need to extend the bump stops before any serious wheeling.
I must have missed it. What hubs are you running? Or are they part of Matt’s brake kit?
I assume IFS hubs?
I assume IFS hubs?
- Thread starter
- #192
Correct, they came from Matt. I believe he’s got a special machining sauce for IFS hubs to work this way.
I like the extra width that’s added. This will be key in making this thing drive even better.
- Thread starter
- #194
I’m excited. It already drove really really nice. The suspension was shot too, so it’s going to be transformative!
- Thread starter
- #195
Rear suspension is in, so short of working on driveline angles, it’s done. The rear driveshaft is 3* out, without any weight in it, which was the same as before, so not worried about that. The front appears to be wayyy out, though I didn’t measure before. I’m showing a difference of about 8.5*. I didn’t add any caster angle shims, so maybe that’s what’s missing.
Gained a bit over 2in of lift in the rear. The shocks I installed are maxed all the way out length wise at ride height, which doesn’t seem right to me.
Also did a compression test, which is certainly not accurate. I just didn’t have all of the pieces to make what I had work, but I was able to cobble something together that sealed at the top of the injector hole vs the bottom. Somebody smarter than me can probably determine the effect of the whole injector tube worth of air being added to the equation to know what that translates to vs. just the combustion chamber. All 6 cylinders read 230-235psi. The book says it should be 427psi or more, and 28psi difference. I know it runs really well, so I’m counting it up to the extra air in the injector tube cylinder reducing 200 psi or so.
Gained a bit over 2in of lift in the rear. The shocks I installed are maxed all the way out length wise at ride height, which doesn’t seem right to me.
Also did a compression test, which is certainly not accurate. I just didn’t have all of the pieces to make what I had work, but I was able to cobble something together that sealed at the top of the injector hole vs the bottom. Somebody smarter than me can probably determine the effect of the whole injector tube worth of air being added to the equation to know what that translates to vs. just the combustion chamber. All 6 cylinders read 230-235psi. The book says it should be 427psi or more, and 28psi difference. I know it runs really well, so I’m counting it up to the extra air in the injector tube cylinder reducing 200 psi or so.
If your frt pinion is pointing down 8.5* you won't be able to correct the angle without messing up the caster angle. Usually when you're in 4wd your not going very fast so having the frt d/s angle off a bit is ok, as long as the ujoint yokes dont interfere with each other at full droop. It can be corrected, but it takes more than adding shims. Are you using a compression tester for diesels? Their compression is a lot more than a gas engine. I had a gm diesel and took compression thru the glow plug hole. Idk what the protocol is for Toyota. Even at 427 psi, it seems low. Idk.
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- #197
I meant the pinion and transfer are 8.5* off from parallel.
Yes, I’ve got a diesel compression tester. 12HT doesn’t have glow plugs, so it’s done through the injector hole. I think I have the fitting to get a better test tomorrow. The 12HT manual says over 427psi, so I’m assuming it wouldn’t even run if 230 was a real number. It doesn’t have any blow by, judging by the hand over the oil fill test, so hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to get an accurate reading.
Still on the fence on the turbo decision. The GTurbo seems so good, but 3X the price of the competition is just hard to justify…Mr. Landcruiser and Whistle n soot both sell Arashi Dynamics and they’re $700 vs $2900. Or again the HX30super could probably be done for under $1000.
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- #198
So cobbled together a better compression tester and psi is up to 380, which is well within spec.
Interestingly, my back of the napkin math appears to be pretty accurate. Calculating approximately a 40cc combustion chamber (using bore, stroke, and compression ratio, then working backwards), measuring cylinder compression with the inclusion of the entire volume of the injector body, adds in approximately 20cc, hence very low numbers with my first measurement.
My most recent adapter took up the bulk of the volume of the injector body, but the check valve was still at the top, not the bottom. The photos of the OEM Toyota SST 09992-00023, show a check valve at the bottom of the injector adapter, thus adding zero additional volume to the pistons compression. I figure my compression test adapter still added approximately the volume of a pencil, so about another 5-6cc. This would have my measurements about 10-15% low, which should ideally put my results at 420-430psi. Add in the likely much better seal you get with the copper washer and not having a $35 amazon gauge attached, I’m going to conclude this motor is very healthy. It has no blow by, and makes sense it would have great compression given that it fires up at the smallest bump of the key.
Now what does this mean for my turbo choice?! Argghh
Interestingly, my back of the napkin math appears to be pretty accurate. Calculating approximately a 40cc combustion chamber (using bore, stroke, and compression ratio, then working backwards), measuring cylinder compression with the inclusion of the entire volume of the injector body, adds in approximately 20cc, hence very low numbers with my first measurement.
My most recent adapter took up the bulk of the volume of the injector body, but the check valve was still at the top, not the bottom. The photos of the OEM Toyota SST 09992-00023, show a check valve at the bottom of the injector adapter, thus adding zero additional volume to the pistons compression. I figure my compression test adapter still added approximately the volume of a pencil, so about another 5-6cc. This would have my measurements about 10-15% low, which should ideally put my results at 420-430psi. Add in the likely much better seal you get with the copper washer and not having a $35 amazon gauge attached, I’m going to conclude this motor is very healthy. It has no blow by, and makes sense it would have great compression given that it fires up at the smallest bump of the key.
Now what does this mean for my turbo choice?! Argghh
- Thread starter
- #200
Got the old turbo off (new one was here yesterday, incredible speed!). It was a real bear. I’m a little nervous about it being a bit bigger and hitting my fancy new steering shaft, didn’t have time for a test fit. The old one didn’t have much play, but had a nasty sludge in it, I’m thinking probably from the engine sitting on its side for who knows how long. Anyways, no turning back.
The new turbo has block off plates for the coolant tubes, seeming to indicate its oil cooled only (like any other turbo I’ve ever seen). I’ve got an inquiry out to Gturbo hoping to confirm. It’ll be a hell of a lot easier to install only using oil cooling!
Also hoping they have a solution for the intake elbow, as the inlet is a good deal bigger.
Hopefully get a pyro tapped in the manifold tomorrow and get this puppy installed. Then I’m just waiting on my dang injectors to get back!
The new turbo has block off plates for the coolant tubes, seeming to indicate its oil cooled only (like any other turbo I’ve ever seen). I’ve got an inquiry out to Gturbo hoping to confirm. It’ll be a hell of a lot easier to install only using oil cooling!
Also hoping they have a solution for the intake elbow, as the inlet is a good deal bigger.
Hopefully get a pyro tapped in the manifold tomorrow and get this puppy installed. Then I’m just waiting on my dang injectors to get back!