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Purchased the drum brake adjustment tool from city racer which helped a lot. I had two wheels that needed a lot of adjustment. I pressure bled system and verified no air. I do have a better pedal, but not great. First pump goes pretty close to floor, but stops truck fine. Next pump is better. I think i should get new wheel cylinders at some point. For the first time since i bought this truck it made it out of the driveway and around the block.

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Ive seen many post on problems with bleeding drum brakes. If you have to pump the brakes you probably still have air in the system or a master cylinder issue. You can use a pr of vise grips and clamp the rubber line to isolate if it the problem is in the frt or rear. Adjust the vise grips to stop the flow but not crush the rubber line.
 
I love the patina on your rig! If mine was not rotted away in so many places I would have left it alone. I also like your bump side Ford a nice old truck in it's own right, I have a 73 dent side with a 300 cu. in. six that I have owned for the past 30 years, 300,000 miles on the odo and still going strong!

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miller said:
Put a vise grip on rear brake rubber line. This fixes pedal issue. Im going to get new hose and brake cylinders. Painted winch plate and finished install.

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I haven't run drums in decades, but have followed a lot of threads on problems with bleeding drum brakes. Now that you've isolated the problem, a lot of folks have found success by keeping the tires on and adjusting the cylinders to the max so the tires dont spin and the pistons cant move, then bleed them. Once you get a good pedal, then properly adjust them.
 
Made a shim for cooling fan so that issue fixed. Ordered rear brake rubber line from cruiser corps for 7/70-80. Line does not fit, male end needs to be longer. This rig says Dec 1970. Installed coolant overflow and wipers. Removed cowl vent need to order seal and drain tubes from city racer. Fabbed catch for hood rod out of some scraps.

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I drove the rig around the block several times. The used speedo and odometer now work. I still need a little choke so it doesn't bog off idle so carb needs some additional work, but overall runs well. I’m going to sell this rig so if anyones looking for a nice patina rig keep an eye on the classifieds.

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Carb stumbles off idle-
1. Installed idle solenoid connector , engine dies when disconnected.
2. Adjusted timing from 7-10 degrees no fix.left at 8.
3. Vacuum steady at 20 or more performed lean drop tuning several times . Idle mixture screw does make changes. No fix
4. Adjusted valves warm re tuned no fix.
5. While working throttle at carb squirted additional gas while opening throttle. This fixes stumble. The small nozzle on primary side dribbling fuel. I’m going to pull carb apart maybe pump plunger issue?

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Pulled carb and disassembled. The carb does have a bunch of dirt and debris in it. The power piston has some scoring, but kit does not come with new. Last time I soaked in carb cleaner, this time i put in ultrasonic cleaner. I put brake cleaner and air through everything. Hopefully bog off idle will be fixed tomorrow.

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miller said:
The small nozzle on primary side dribbling fuel.
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At idle? If so, you’re getting fuel prior to opening the throttle, so everything’s set with that extra fuel at idle, and at throttle up, even with the accelerator pumped fuel it’s not getting that step up in fuel needed. Have you adjusted the throttle plate opening to spec at idle? At idle the available fuel should be coming only from ports below the throttle plate.
 
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