Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
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I have a couple of extra DIESEL FUEL ONLY labels printed, first come, first served. Send a PM with your mailing address and I will send one in the mail.
@CycloSteve That decal for diesel fuel only turned out great!
I've got HDJ81 headlamp washer switches if you are looking for momentary push button switch.Cluster back together on mine. Used my Brother P-Touch to print out a Diesel Fuel Only sticker to cover up the Unleaded one; 12pt Arial .
Figured a way to re-purpose a Defroster switch to serve as the manual Glow switch. First removed the locking mechanism from the internals to turn it into a momentary switch. Used the B/W wire from the 2nd / PWR switch to provide +12V power, and the P/L wire from the O/D Main switch to take the power to the ECM Plug. Will then take that signal to the engine compartment to activate the Glow Relay. Used the switch lighting wires too. Fits perfectly into one of the slots in the console previously occupied by the change holder.
They are the 91-94 specific type
- Thread starter
- #465
Completed a spur of the moment, 275 mile round trip to Canada yesterday in the 80. Picked up this front bumper from Cruisin' Off-road and some other parts from 70'sGuy, thanks Gents, LOVING this truck so far and made the trip with zero issues
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- Thread starter
- #466
Quick update: I've driven this just shy of 450 miles now, the tank is just below 1/4 full. I'm guessing that the fuel economy is just about 20MPG which is what I was hoping for.
To my annoyance, the radiator upper tank split a big crack in it the other day
Thanks to 70sguy, I have a spare which I'll swap out in the near future.
I spent 8 hours working on more wiring stuff today. I swapped the diesel tach, diesel speedo and diesel oil pressure/water temp gauges into the FZJ housing.
I tested the oil pressure gauge/oil pressure gauge sender as Steve suggested and neither gauge metered out to the proper resistance. Steve's post stated "22-28 ohms"; both of my gauges showed about 150 ohms. What the heck? The test involving a 3.4watt bulb also on the sender wire and ground also did not work. Obviously, this is going to take some more research to figure it out. Both gauges now have the "Coolant Gauge Mod" however both tested out the same (1 modded and one un-molested)
I do not get credit for this....but Cyclosteve does.
The large brown plug is the connector for the "PARK, REVERSE, NEUTRAL, DRIVE, ETC" on the dash. Since the diesel with manual trans doesn't use this, the plug just gets tucked away. I un-pinned the black/orange wire which powers the "DRIVE" circuit. I'm hoping that in the future, I can use this to fool the cruise ECM. I also un-pinned the green (dash light illumination) and the yellow (12V ignition hot) for future use. If I put in a set of EGT/Boost gauges, both of those will come in handy.
Steve came up with a pretty slick way to power the "Turbo" light on the diesel tach. The red/white wire is relocated to this blue plug on pin #13 which is un-used.
The red/white wire comes out under the glove box and I removed the wire from the ECU plug in order to run it out into the engine compartment. I also wired in the tach wire and ran it out into the engine compartment. Red/White for the "Turbo" light and "Black" for the tach.
Despite my best efforts, I cannot seem to get the tach working. The "Turbo" light is also not quite right as it illuminates anytime the key is on or the engine is running. I hate wiring, I really, really, do. The tach sender on the IP has a black wire and green wire. The "Turbo" sensor has a green/white, green/red and green/yellow wire. Input from anyone who has ever sorted all this stuff out on a swap would be much appreciated.
To my annoyance, the radiator upper tank split a big crack in it the other day
Thanks to 70sguy, I have a spare which I'll swap out in the near future.I spent 8 hours working on more wiring stuff today. I swapped the diesel tach, diesel speedo and diesel oil pressure/water temp gauges into the FZJ housing.
I tested the oil pressure gauge/oil pressure gauge sender as Steve suggested and neither gauge metered out to the proper resistance. Steve's post stated "22-28 ohms"; both of my gauges showed about 150 ohms. What the heck? The test involving a 3.4watt bulb also on the sender wire and ground also did not work. Obviously, this is going to take some more research to figure it out. Both gauges now have the "Coolant Gauge Mod" however both tested out the same (1 modded and one un-molested)
I do not get credit for this....but Cyclosteve does.
The large brown plug is the connector for the "PARK, REVERSE, NEUTRAL, DRIVE, ETC" on the dash. Since the diesel with manual trans doesn't use this, the plug just gets tucked away. I un-pinned the black/orange wire which powers the "DRIVE" circuit. I'm hoping that in the future, I can use this to fool the cruise ECM. I also un-pinned the green (dash light illumination) and the yellow (12V ignition hot) for future use. If I put in a set of EGT/Boost gauges, both of those will come in handy.
Steve came up with a pretty slick way to power the "Turbo" light on the diesel tach. The red/white wire is relocated to this blue plug on pin #13 which is un-used.
The red/white wire comes out under the glove box and I removed the wire from the ECU plug in order to run it out into the engine compartment. I also wired in the tach wire and ran it out into the engine compartment. Red/White for the "Turbo" light and "Black" for the tach.
Despite my best efforts, I cannot seem to get the tach working. The "Turbo" light is also not quite right as it illuminates anytime the key is on or the engine is running. I hate wiring, I really, really, do. The tach sender on the IP has a black wire and green wire. The "Turbo" sensor has a green/white, green/red and green/yellow wire. Input from anyone who has ever sorted all this stuff out on a swap would be much appreciated.
Hi Ross,
Looking at the 1996 1HD-FT and non-US market EWD and cross referencing with the US EWD, here is what I think needs to be done with the wiring. Others, please chime in with your experience.
Not sure what is up with the oil pressure gauge ohms. The only difference I can find is that the placement of the US oil pressure gauge pins on the back of the cluster is slightly different, and has a spec of 40-48 ohms; see page BE-38 of the US Spec FSM.
1. Cruise - wire the yellow +12v you have at the cluster to the Black/Orange wire to fool the Cruise ECM that you are in Drive (pin 2). There may also be the possibility to wire the clutch switch into this to turn off the system if the clutch is depressed. The only question that I have, is that with the MTM you do not have a +12v constant to the Black/Orange, but only have the +12v only when depressing the clutch. ATM always has the +12v when in Drive. The switch on my clutch is Normally Open, thus the MTM system would work opposite of the ATM one, which does not make sense to me, but does jive with the EWD.
2. Turbo - the signal should come from the Green/Yellow wire from the Turbo Pressure Switch wired to the new Red/White wire which goes to pin 13 on the blue cluster plug. Power is always provided at the cluster, and the TPS is providing the ground.
3. Tacho - the signal should come from the Black wire on the Fuel Cut Solenoid wire (Pin 1) and go to the Black wire at Pin 11 on the blue cluster plug, which is also down at the old 1FZ-FE ECM plug at postion 10 on plug E7D (the one with 22 pins). Power here is also constant at the cluster, with the FCS providing the pulse for RPM.
Looking at the 1996 1HD-FT and non-US market EWD and cross referencing with the US EWD, here is what I think needs to be done with the wiring. Others, please chime in with your experience.
Not sure what is up with the oil pressure gauge ohms. The only difference I can find is that the placement of the US oil pressure gauge pins on the back of the cluster is slightly different, and has a spec of 40-48 ohms; see page BE-38 of the US Spec FSM.
1. Cruise - wire the yellow +12v you have at the cluster to the Black/Orange wire to fool the Cruise ECM that you are in Drive (pin 2). There may also be the possibility to wire the clutch switch into this to turn off the system if the clutch is depressed. The only question that I have, is that with the MTM you do not have a +12v constant to the Black/Orange, but only have the +12v only when depressing the clutch. ATM always has the +12v when in Drive. The switch on my clutch is Normally Open, thus the MTM system would work opposite of the ATM one, which does not make sense to me, but does jive with the EWD.
2. Turbo - the signal should come from the Green/Yellow wire from the Turbo Pressure Switch wired to the new Red/White wire which goes to pin 13 on the blue cluster plug. Power is always provided at the cluster, and the TPS is providing the ground.
3. Tacho - the signal should come from the Black wire on the Fuel Cut Solenoid wire (Pin 1) and go to the Black wire at Pin 11 on the blue cluster plug, which is also down at the old 1FZ-FE ECM plug at postion 10 on plug E7D (the one with 22 pins). Power here is also constant at the cluster, with the FCS providing the pulse for RPM.
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Weird, that turbo light is only meant to come on as an over boost warning AFAIK .. around 13 psi I think. 1HD-T had two Turbo lights, green one for when boost comes on, and orange one for overboost. My 1HD-FT turbo light never came on until GTURBO fitted, then was always coming on of course. I just disconnected it and used the hose for it to connect a proper boost guage.
Sent from my SM-T800
Sent from my SM-T800
This is definitely how the light should operate. If it is always on there is a ground fault, a bad sensor, or the wrong wire connected. I plan on wiring mine up, and consider it coming on as a sign that I am making decent boost.
If it gets annoying, I would look to change the set point, or just disconnect.
- Thread starter
- #470
I'm happy to admit that I likely have the turbo light wired incorrectly. In looking at the diagrams, the green/red wire from the sensor should send a signal to the light on the tach gauge. I'm guessing that the sensor on the engine needs to receive 12 volts at one of the wire right? It'd be great to see the turbo light actually work but the figuring on the tach would really make me happy at this point.
I think I need to tear the dash back apart at this point and make sure that the wires all meter out appropriately (aka: wires hooked up right) so that the tach is actually receiving a signal. I would like to know how others have wired their tachs. Supposedly, one wire from the tach sender should be to "ground" and the other should run to the tach gauge itself. Seems like wire colors changed over the years though.
Steve- I did in fact wire the "DRIVE" (black/orange) wire to the 12V ignition hot (yellow wire) behind the dash. My hope is the cruise ECU may be fooled into thinking the truck is in "DRIVE" thus enabling the cruise control. We'll see, I haven't had any time to look at that yet.
I think I need to tear the dash back apart at this point and make sure that the wires all meter out appropriately (aka: wires hooked up right) so that the tach is actually receiving a signal. I would like to know how others have wired their tachs. Supposedly, one wire from the tach sender should be to "ground" and the other should run to the tach gauge itself. Seems like wire colors changed over the years though.
Steve- I did in fact wire the "DRIVE" (black/orange) wire to the 12V ignition hot (yellow wire) behind the dash. My hope is the cruise ECU may be fooled into thinking the truck is in "DRIVE" thus enabling the cruise control. We'll see, I haven't had any time to look at that yet.
Re tach signal, with post 93 ECT tranny 80 series, the tach signal is processed through the ECT computer, (or engine ECU as it were on post 95 80) in the absence of ECU the tach signal can't reach tachometer.
I had to move one of the ecu wires up into IH1 to connect to tach.
My swap notes show that I used IH1 18 tach for signal coming from pump, and I pulled ECU E7 pin 10 and moved into IH1 to receive tach signal coming from engine harness at IH1 18
HTH
I had to move one of the ecu wires up into IH1 to connect to tach.
My swap notes show that I used IH1 18 tach for signal coming from pump, and I pulled ECU E7 pin 10 and moved into IH1 to receive tach signal coming from engine harness at IH1 18
HTH
- Thread starter
- #472
70'sguy, you are correct. I took the black wire (pin 10 from the E7 connector) and I disconnected it from where it would normally plug into the ECU. The diagrams show that it should run up to the "pulse" side of the tacho. Like you, I ran what I "think" is the pulse wire from the sender on the IP, through the firewall and I connected it to the black wire. No go on the tacho. I'm to the point now where I need to pull the whole dash back apart and start metering things out; not fun. Here's a question though, the IP tach pulse sender has 2 wires coming from it, one is BLACK and one is GREEN. Which one is the pulse? I've tried both without any luck, I can't figure this out
Don't rule out a dead tach either. I spent 6 hours chasing wires and testing things on my latest swap trying to diagnose a non working tach, finally swapped in a pre 95 tach I had lying around and discovered that the used Post 95 tach I had was a dud. Yeah, that sucked.
- Thread starter
- #474
Yeah, that would suck big time. I wouldn't be surprised though. I'm out of the country now but if my current tach is a dud do you have any others from the parts trucks you currently have?
I have been working on a way to integrate the NSS circuit and the Clutch Switch to also benefit the Cruise. Here are my thoughts of the circuit in order of the current flow.
1. Yellow +12v wire from Gauge Circuit to provide power (from unused wire in cluster, and only on with key in IGN and ST1 positions)
2. Hidden switch which acts as an additional theft device (place where only you know, or use a Mr. T switch which looks to have another function)
3. Normally open Clutch Switch (can use the one out of a Tacoma if you don't already have) This completes the circuit when the clutch is depressed.
4. Wire out from Clutch Switch is split into two sub circuits with B/W wire
6. Wire from relay Pin 87 goes to the Diesel Starter Relay to trip it using the B/R wire from the NSS Circuit. This should be Pin 5 on NSS Plug.
7. Wire from relay Pin 86 goes to ground, Brown wire.
Thus, the relay replaces the NSS switch from the ATM with a relatively simple setup which benefits both the Starting and Cruise functions. Starter will only work with the clutch depressed, just like the NSS. On the theft deterrent, the motor will not turn over if the hidden switch is turned off, as there would be no power to the piggybacked relays.
I have not yet looked at the wire sizes to see if they are sufficient, but they would not be carrying much load. The Diesel Starter Relay would be in the engine compartment and carry the large power load, thus would have it's own power supply and larger wire to the starter itself (yes, I am running a 12v system only).
1. Yellow +12v wire from Gauge Circuit to provide power (from unused wire in cluster, and only on with key in IGN and ST1 positions)
2. Hidden switch which acts as an additional theft device (place where only you know, or use a Mr. T switch which looks to have another function)
3. Normally open Clutch Switch (can use the one out of a Tacoma if you don't already have) This completes the circuit when the clutch is depressed.
4. Wire out from Clutch Switch is split into two sub circuits with B/W wire
a. B/W Wire #1 goes to Cruise #2, thus when clutch is pressed the Cruise shuts off (replacing the ST1 signal, and a good safety feature)
b. B/W Wire #2 goes to 30A standard auto relay, Pin 85
5. Wire from relay also has power at Pin 30 from ST1 Circuit (thus only has power when key is turned to start) using the B/W wire from the old NSS Circuit. This should be Pin 6 on NSS Plug.b. B/W Wire #2 goes to 30A standard auto relay, Pin 85
6. Wire from relay Pin 87 goes to the Diesel Starter Relay to trip it using the B/R wire from the NSS Circuit. This should be Pin 5 on NSS Plug.
7. Wire from relay Pin 86 goes to ground, Brown wire.
Thus, the relay replaces the NSS switch from the ATM with a relatively simple setup which benefits both the Starting and Cruise functions. Starter will only work with the clutch depressed, just like the NSS. On the theft deterrent, the motor will not turn over if the hidden switch is turned off, as there would be no power to the piggybacked relays.
I have not yet looked at the wire sizes to see if they are sufficient, but they would not be carrying much load. The Diesel Starter Relay would be in the engine compartment and carry the large power load, thus would have it's own power supply and larger wire to the starter itself (yes, I am running a 12v system only).
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Updates on your wiring woes? Would love to hear how things are running and how you are enjoying it.
Some progress today with my Clutch Switch solution from Post #475. I ran the yellow wire from the cluster to the Clutch Switch, then split it to the Cruise Pin #2 B/W (now B/R due to the pigtail I had on hand), and also back to the B/O wire which goes out to what was the shift indicator plug. Tested everything, and it should function as both an off switch for Cruise, and when I add the relay up front, it will also ensure that the motor cannot be started without the clutch being depressed. I also wired it with plugs so I can unplug or override if it starts giving me any issues.
Looking up at the Clutch Switch and Cruise ECU.
Wiring up in the cluster.
Wires in engine compartment loom labeled.
Looking up at the Clutch Switch and Cruise ECU.
Wiring up in the cluster.
Wires in engine compartment loom labeled.
Here is one of the most unexpected parts for my conversion that I have found so far...the proper radiator for a HZJ80 with manual transmission.
It is a TRAD radiator, made in Japan, three row copper. Part number 16400-17020. No crappy Chinese aftermarket junk for my rig. The best part is that Onur found one here in the US, as it is a live in the system. The bad news is that this was the only one physically in the US at this time, but it still may be able to be acquired. It does not have the transmission cooler fittings, thus if you have an ATM you will need to run an aftermarket cooler.
Why is this in the US? No idea, as the HZJ80 never was offered here, but you can contact Onur directly for details on getting one.
The money shots.
All the right placement for fittings.
No ATM cooler
1HDT-FT Fan Shroud fits perfectly. No modifications necessary.
It is a TRAD radiator, made in Japan, three row copper. Part number 16400-17020. No crappy Chinese aftermarket junk for my rig. The best part is that Onur found one here in the US, as it is a live in the system. The bad news is that this was the only one physically in the US at this time, but it still may be able to be acquired. It does not have the transmission cooler fittings, thus if you have an ATM you will need to run an aftermarket cooler.
Why is this in the US? No idea, as the HZJ80 never was offered here, but you can contact Onur directly for details on getting one.
The money shots.
All the right placement for fittings.
No ATM cooler
1HDT-FT Fan Shroud fits perfectly. No modifications necessary.
- Thread starter
- #480
Nice work Steve, your making this look easy I still need to swap my spare HDJ81 radiator in for the FZJ unit that split a big crack in the upper tank.
Any progress on the drivetrain install?
Any progress on the drivetrain install?