Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

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Ross-

I would go take a photo of mine but we received about 12" of now at my house (currently 21F) and it is dark outside. I can try to shoot more photos of my pump tomorrow to verify what you are asking about best I can. Sorry I can't help in real time but tomorrow's the best I can do. :)

Like our Pm's about the difference in driving between the VC and part time, I used my stock (working) VC t-case off of the original A442 and haven't had any issues at all with it. I also never modded my CDL switch. When, like today with blowing snow and s***e roads, the full time 4wd comes in super handy. With all of the ice, packed and blowing snow poor roads and related, I had no issues driving 30 miles to or from work. It was very nice and sure footed. Never thought of touching the CDL honestly. Maybe try the VC case (hooked up to 12V to verify full engage/disengage) and verify that it works or tear down your non VC case to see what the carnage (hopefully nothing) was and what happened. If nothing else, clean up all of the moving parts (actuator) and try to verify it's A-OK.

Worst case if you decide to use the VC case is take your shafts to a reputable DS guy and have him alter the lengths. I initially did this to make mine work and have had no problems.
 
OK, thanks for the info and any future pics of vacuum hose routing would be much appreciated. I'm with you, I think I need to drop the transfer case down, pull the actuator and inspect it. My guess is it's only partially engaging and I ate a bunch of teeth off of it. I'm telling you, the howling gear noise was HORRIBLE to say the least.
 
Dude- From the sounds you describe, it might be toast. :-(

Check the VC for functionality as well. they work, and speaking from today's (s***e snow/weather) experience, they work very well.
 
LOL, if it's toast I'll add it to my wall of shame!! Maybe it can keep this recently roasted 1310 series U-Joint from my FJ40 company...:p
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If you support the transmission or t-case, remove the crossmember and then lower the whole thing just a bit, you can unbolt the actuator. It is on with 4 10mm bolts and some fipg.

Unless you think you need to do a lot of workbto the transfer, then pull it. You can rebuild the whole thing in a day.

I have to check, but i don't think i have those vac lines.

Cheers
J
 
Jan, I'd be interested to see complete a vacuum routing on anyone's FT that isn't running all the VSV's and EGR. Any help is much appreciated
 
Mark, thanks for the pics. I can see the routing down at the IP and the injection pump but after the two hoses go up over the intake, where are they going from there? I'm assuming one is going to the nipple on the side of the intake by the glow screen (if you have one). Is the other running to the boost pressure sensor? Thanks again, Ross
 
my setup it's very simple .. ( factory 1HD-T )

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about your actuator .. actually you can take it out as described above with all drive train still on and check it for functionality. actuator ( at least mine = HF1A ) runs like 3 segs max for total engagement.

You can test ( your drive train still hanging ) for fork movement if you use the gear from actuator and add some sort of lever to act as actuator motor ..
 
Do you have 1HD-FT FSM or general market 80 series Body chassis manual? The vacuum lines have to do with BACS and SICS systems, they are covered in one of the manuals. I'll check mine tonight.
 
70sguy said:
Do you have 1HD-FT FSM or general market 80 series Body chassis manual? The vacuum lines have to do with BACS and SICS systems, they are covered in one of the manuals. I'll check mine tonight.
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No I don't. Thanks for checking. I think (based on input provided from others here) that I have the lines "close". I'm still getting a weird "chattering" almost when the engine is under a heavier load. I think this noise is coming from the IP but can't be sure. As soon as I back off on the throttle, it goes away.
 
I just got finished swapping CDL actuators also. I lowered the drivetrain about 4" and was able to unbolt the whole unit as others have described. The hardest part was breaking the seal between the case and the actuator.

This is the UK CDL actuator. It's very crusty.
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I pulled the CDL actuator from my USA spec 93' VC case also. I then hooked both actuators up the transfer case wiring harness and checked for motor engagement and how much "travel" the gear had. I marked them out with a sharpie pen, both motors functioned correctly and both appear to have the same amount of gear travel. The UK motor was MUCH noisier though with lots of gear/motor whine during engagement. The US motor in comparison, was so quiet I had a hard time even hearing it run.
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Here are both CDL engagement gears from both motors. You guessed it, the dirty one on the right is from the UK. Neither has any apparent damage or weird wear. I put one of the gears in the top of the transfer case and I engaged the diff lock by hand. The transfer case internals seemed to move smoothly with no rough spots. I worked both drive flanges back and forth, it was very obvious when the diff lock was engaged. I also used a mirror to look up inside the transfer case. I didn't see any crazy obvious damage which was good.
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I decided to use the US spec CDL motor since it was running MUCH quieter. After installing everything, I took the truck for a several mile test drive. No clunking or weird transfer case sounds at this point :) I'm wondering if the electrical motor on the UK actuator was starting to have issues internally and was randomly coming out of "lock" as I went down the road. We'll see.
 
regarding the picts of your IP and vacuum lines.
the mystery vacuum port on the "back" (block side of the pump) that is currently capped: mine had that, I removed it since the IP was off the truck and it had never been hooked up If memory serves, it was a fuel enrichment (or de-richment.... is that a word?) device for starting.

On your fuel aneroid, you'll notice you have have two hoses. The higher one is the standard fuel enrichment boost compensator; as boost builds the pressure pushes the fuel aneroid down to increase fuel. The LOWER one, is only on some motors; it's an altitude compensator. At low altitude (below 4000' I think) the VSV is open, and vacuum pulls on the bottom of the fuel aneroid. This essentially "helps" the boost compensator push enrich the fuel faster. At high altitude, the VSV is closed, and no vacuum is present to "help" engage the fuel aneroid. Pretty cool.
If you wanted to be fancy... you could hook that VSV up to a manual switch (and delete the altitude device), and you'd be able to turn on/off extra power (eg: you lend the truck to your teenager/father-in-law/heavy footed race car driving friend with bad depth perception... and you want to detune it a little).
 
gifu said:
regarding the picts of your IP and vacuum lines.
the mystery vacuum port on the "back" (block side of the pump) that is currently capped: mine had that, I removed it since the IP was off the truck and it had never been hooked up If memory serves, it was a fuel enrichment (or de-richment.... is that a word?) device for starting.

On your fuel aneroid, you'll notice you have have two hoses. The higher one is the standard fuel enrichment boost compensator; as boost builds the pressure pushes the fuel aneroid down to increase fuel. The LOWER one, is only on some motors; it's an altitude compensator. At low altitude (below 4000' I think) the VSV is open, and vacuum pulls on the bottom of the fuel aneroid. This essentially "helps" the boost compensator push enrich the fuel faster. At high altitude, the VSV is closed, and no vacuum is present to "help" engage the fuel aneroid. Pretty cool.
If you wanted to be fancy... you could hook that VSV up to a manual switch (and delete the altitude device), and you'd be able to turn on/off extra power (eg: you lend the truck to your teenager/father-in-law/heavy footed race car driving friend with bad depth perception... and you want to detune it a little).
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That is pretty slick :) thanks for the info. If I'm interpreting this right, the IP/boost compensator only needs to be hooked up to the boost port near the glow screen correct? Seems like all the other ports are relatively non-essential in regards to the basic running/functioning of the engine.
 
tweeek said:
Any issues with ABS light on with ECU removed?
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Tweeek, it doesn't seem like it. As soon as I turn off the CDL switch, the ABS light goes off. Lock the CDL and the ABS light illuminates. I've only driven this around with the CDL locked and the rear drive shaft in but so far so good with the ABS stuff
 
On mine the hose on the top of pump with the cable ties goes to the manifold vacuum. The one from the side of pump (looks like a control valve) goes to the sensor on the top with electric cables going to it and another vacuum hose coming out that runs down side of radiator.

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Sent from my Nexus 5
 
Hmmm, that clears it up somewhat, thanks
 
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Mine has single vac hose that goes from the intercooler/manifold to the top of the pump and then continues to the solenoid that switches the green/red light in the dash.
 
Jan-78FJ40 said:
View attachment 1177682 Mine has single vac hose that goes from the intercooler/manifold to the top of the pump and then continues to the solenoid that switches the green/red light in the dash.
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Right on Jan, thanks. I have mine hooked up appropriately now. I finally got the thermostat to open, I believe the fan clutch is faulty. Very, very stiff when cold (no way I could stop it spinning if I wanted to) then it gets very easy to turn when warm. Almost the opposite of what should be happening I believe. It finally got up to temp when I placed cardboard in front of the radiator to slow the airflow.

I drove it about 15 miles today, I think the transfer case "clunking"/CDL actuator failure is fixed. At least it hasn't done it again. I'm thinking the motor in the UK actuator was very weak and allowing the CDL to lock/unlock under power, not good.

I'm still getting the weird "chattering/buzzing" noise when the engine is under heavy load. It's very odd, more stuff to investigate. ;) Does anybody have a recommendation for somebody who is familiar with the Toyota IP pumps and can do a reputable rebuild/inspection/tune? I emailed ATEB in Vancouver, BC but haven't heard back from them.
 
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