Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

[Jan-78FJ40]

Right on Jan, thanks. I have mine hooked up appropriately now. I finally got the thermostat to open, I believe the fan clutch is faulty. Very, very stiff when cold (no way I could stop it spinning if I wanted to) then it gets very easy to turn when warm. Almost the opposite of what should be happening I believe. It finally got up to temp when I placed cardboard in front of the radiator to slow the airflow.

I drove it about 15 miles today, I think the transfer case "clunking"/CDL actuator failure is fixed. At least it hasn't done it again. I'm thinking the motor in the UK actuator was very weak and allowing the CDL to lock/unlock under power, not good.

I'm still getting the weird "chattering/buzzing" noise when the engine is under heavy load. It's very odd, more stuff to investigate. Does anybody have a recommendation for somebody who is familiar with the Toyota IP pumps and can do a reputable rebuild/inspection/tune? I emailed ATEB in Vancouver, BC but haven't heard back from them.

These guys are in Portland and have a good reputation. I had 1HDT injectors rebuilt there once and they did a good job. They were also responsive, so maybe give them a call?
The pump should be very quiet, you should definitely not hear a chattering into the cab. Unfortunately the pump rebuilds are very expensive.

Welcome to DFISPDX.com

cheers,
jan

 

[gifu]

That is pretty slick thanks for the info. If I'm interpreting this right, the IP/boost compensator only needs to be hooked up to the boost port near the glow screen correct? Seems like all the other ports are relatively non-essential in regards to the basic running/functioning of the engine.

yes. from the small port on the intake to the upper port on the fuel aneroid

 

[Rock40]

Thanks all

Jan-I spoke with Mark today based on your recommendation. I'm going to do a bit more trouble shooting this weekend to make sure the issue is the IP. If it is, I'm going to send him 2 IP's and hopefully I'll get a good usable one back. Thanks again, I'll let you know how this turns out.

 

[Rock40]

Crusty parts finally arrived from the UK...

My speedometer and tach are currently not working so I'm going to try and begin swapping parts out. My understanding was the gasser speedo should work so I need to re-look at the wiring on that circuit.

 

[IanB]

Crusty parts finally arrived from the UK...
View attachment 1178076
My speedometer and tach are currently not working so I'm going to try and begin swapping parts out. My understanding was the gasser speedo should work so I need to re-look at the wiring on that circuit.

I've never seen an HDJ cluster with a "timing belt" light on the tach, weird. And MPH on the speedo, which would be perfect for you. The HDJ81's were km/h only, no dual scale.

 

[Rock40]

I've never seen an HDJ cluster with a "timing belt" light on the tach, weird. And MPH on the speedo, which would be perfect for you. The HDJ81's were km/h only, no dual scale.

Yeah, it might be a UK thing as my buddy brought a 90' HDJ81 over from there and it had both lights also. There's supposed to be a manual reset somewhere for the timing belt dummy light and the light should activate at the 100,000km mark to remind you to change the belt. I think I will just swap the speedo (probably a heinous crime of some sort seeing as the mileage count will change) but I like the fact that it doesn't have the "Unleaded Fuel" comment on it.

 

[IanB]

Yeah, it might be a UK thing as my buddy brought a 90' HDJ81 over from there and it had both lights also. There's supposed to be a manual reset somewhere for the timing belt dummy light and the light should activate at the 100,000km mark to remind you to change the belt. I think I will just swap the speedo (probably a heinous crime of some sort seeing as the mileage count will change) but I like the fact that it doesn't have the "Unleaded Fuel" comment on it.

The rubber grommet just below/left of the speedo pops out, and you depress the button beneath to reset the TB light, same as the HDJ81's.

 

[Rock40]

The rubber grommet just below/left of the speedo pops out, and you depress the button beneath to reset the TB light, same as the HDJ81's.

Ahhh, thank you

 

[Rock40]

Quick update as several more issues were resolved today.

The speedometer was not working and I couldn't figure out why not since the wiring is simple. It turns out that the speedometer sender MUST be fed 12V from the yellow wire (#6 pin on the IH1 connector) in order for the speedo to work. The red/orange wire (#1 on the IH1 connector) is the signal from the speed sensor that will go back up to the speedo itself.

On the H151F electrical harness, the 12V power for the speedo, reverse lights and 4WD indicator light are all spliced together somewhere in the factory harness. Thinking I was being clever, I powered the circuits using the black/red fuel injector wire (#14 pin on the IH1 harness) and I left the #6 pin yellow wire disconnected. Don't do this unless you want to just guess your vehicle speed while looking at a dead speedometer.....

After disconnecting the #14 wire and hooking up the #6, both the speedo and reverse lights are working properly No go on the 4WD light but I'm less concerned about that at this point.

 

[Rock40]

I also received this shifter floor plate from a friend of mine who is sheet metal guru. It's 14 gauge and he hit it in 8 different spots with a hydraulic sheet metal brake to get the bend to exactly match the factory floor contours. It should seal very well to the floor.

 

[Rock40]

So here is a question: Does anyone know if I can just swap the UK spec instrument panel directly into the truck? I know the fitment is the same but the question is whether or not the wiring plug "pin-out" will line up. Has anyone heard of someone doing this? If possible, it would save a lot of time swapping everything over not the USA instrument panel housing.

 

[tweeek]

So here is a question: Does anyone know if I can just swap the UK spec instrument panel directly into the truck? I know the fitment is the same but the question is whether or not the wiring plug "pin-out" will line up. Has anyone heard of someone doing this? If possible, it would save a lot of time swapping everything over not the USA instrument panel housing.

Don't know about the UK cluster, or what year it is, but I compared the cluster pinout from my 93 HDJ81, with the pinout from my 97 LX, and there were several differences.

 

[Rock40]

Hmmm, that wouldn't surprise me in the least. It's just be nice not to have to disassemble both units to swap all this stuff over. I think it makes sense to swap the tach, UK speedo and obviously the blanking plate. I'm also wonder if the diesel engines didn't use a slightly different oil pressure wiring/gauge setup.

Right now, the oil pressure gauge is not acting accurate as it's reading very low (like barely moving) at all RPM's. Pop the fill cap on the valve cover though and there is oil flowing around inside like crazy. Flow increases (like it should) when RPM's increase and I don't believe the engine has little no oil pressure. If that was the case, it likely would have burned up by now. Is it slightly upsetting to see the gauge sitting so low, yes.

The diesel harness has a super odd-ball wiring configuration for the oil pressure which involves shielded wire (the gasser doesn't use this) and a convoluted noise suppression system as part of the harness. I'm wondering if this isn't throwing off the signal to the US spec oil pressure gauge somehow. Anybody else have an issue with this sort of thing?

 

[tweeek]

Would suggest checking with a mechanial gauge, but the FJ and HDJ gauges are known for being very inaccurate.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Hmmm, that wouldn't surprise me in the least. It's just be nice not to have to disassemble both units to swap all this stuff over. I think it makes sense to swap the tach, UK speedo and obviously the blanking plate. I'm also wonder if the diesel engines didn't use a slightly different oil pressure wiring/gauge setup.

Right now, the oil pressure gauge is not acting accurate as it's reading very low (like barely moving) at all RPM's. Pop the fill cap on the valve cover though and there is oil flowing around inside like crazy. Flow increases (like it should) when RPM's increase and I don't believe the engine has little no oil pressure. If that was the case, it likely would have burned up by now. Is it slightly upsetting to see the gauge sitting so low, yes.

The diesel harness has a super odd-ball wiring configuration for the oil pressure which involves shielded wire (the gasser doesn't use this) and a convoluted noise suppression system as part of the harness. I'm wondering if this isn't throwing off the signal to the US spec oil pressure gauge somehow. Anybody else have an issue with this sort of thing?

I had no issue. The oil pressure sensor on the gasser is the same part number as on the diesel engines (83520-60011 also for 1FZFE and 3FE), so I expected the wiring to be the same. Mine has just the wires going to the pressure sensor, no noise suppressor in between. Maybe the british engine is more complicated (again).

 

[Rock40]

I had no issue. The oil pressure sensor on the gasser is the same part number as on the diesel engines (83520-60011 also for 1FZFE and 3FE), so I expected the wiring to be the same. Mine has just the wires going to the pressure sensor, no noise suppressor in between. Maybe the british engine is more complicated (again).

That would not surprise me, the noise suppressor is a few inches away from the oil pressure sensor itself and it was actually taped in place within the harness.

I will hook a mechanical gauge up as Tweeek suggested and I'll also try swapping the UK gauge in. If that doesn't work, I'll remove all the extra noise suppressor stuff and try that route

 

[CycloSteve]

Here are a couple of pages that may help. I wonder what year of cluster that would be for. The tacho I received did not have the T-Belt light, but the speedo had the T-Belt reset, so go figure. I plan on using the FZJ speedo, fuel, volts, oil pressure and water temp, and the HDJ tacho if possible.

My FZJ harness also had the suppression circuit next to the oil sender.

This may help with debugging the oil pressure.

 

[Rock40]

Thanks Steve, I will test as suggested

 

[CycloSteve]

Cluster back together on mine. Used my Brother P-Touch to print out a Diesel Fuel Only sticker to cover up the Unleaded one; 12pt Arial .

Figured a way to re-purpose a Defroster switch to serve as the manual Glow switch. First removed the locking mechanism from the internals to turn it into a momentary switch. Used the B/W wire from the 2nd / PWR switch to provide +12V power, and the P/L wire from the O/D Main switch to take the power to the ECM Plug. Will then take that signal to the engine compartment to activate the Glow Relay. Used the switch lighting wires too. Fits perfectly into one of the slots in the console previously occupied by the change holder.

 

[FJRanger]

Steve,

What size type, font and style did you use? I want to do the same, just haven't wanted to take the dash apart... Again.

edit: my bad for missing it initially, tiny phone screen