Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
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I don't think I have seen a HDJ81 here NOT smoke something on start-up... I find depending on who I fill up with makes a difference, hence why I don't use Chevron anymore as it looks like I don't care about the environment!
At the risk of your excellent build thread being sidetracked with a diesel discussion (I think there was a thread in the diesel section about cetane a while back if you're inclined to read it or want to move this discussion to keep a clean build thread) I've wondered if the blue haze that seems more common then not in Canada and the USA is not just cold weather related but also the quality of our diesel, as opposed to many other places in the world: Specifically our cetane rating. Perhaps it is a combination of having the fuel system fresh and dialed in, in addition to our diesel quality. There is lots of info on line of you want to read up. Here is an example: TDIClub Forums - View Single Post - CETANE ratings in Canada Eh? and The benefits of high cetane diesel fuel
One fellow on Mud has really done a lot of work with the fuel pin and adjustments recently, and has posted it for all to understand the system and use/build/add to. The whole thread is good, but start at post 408 to current as a primer: The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread . I have no direct experience to relay yet. My fuel pin has been modified and tuned a little at ATEB. I'll be getting into it fully myself when I get around to installing the g-turbo and safari intercooler I have on the shelf.
hth's
gb
One fellow on Mud has really done a lot of work with the fuel pin and adjustments recently, and has posted it for all to understand the system and use/build/add to. The whole thread is good, but start at post 408 to current as a primer: The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread . I have no direct experience to relay yet. My fuel pin has been modified and tuned a little at ATEB. I'll be getting into it fully myself when I get around to installing the g-turbo and safari intercooler I have on the shelf.
hth's
gb
- Thread starter
- #504
Cool, thanks for the info, that made for some interesting reading. I've been filling it at Fred Meyer but it looks like Chevron might be a better option.
A little tube nonsense today now that I have the JD2 bender.....1.5"x.120 wall DOM The fronts look easy but they are actually compound bends to get the tubing to wrap around the side marker light.
Low profile tube on the rear bumper, kicked out just a bit past the flares. Still plenty of room for both swingouts
I also received a replacement diesel tach today, thanks Sheldon!! I'll see if I can get the tach going tomorrow
A little tube nonsense today now that I have the JD2 bender.....1.5"x.120 wall DOM The fronts look easy but they are actually compound bends to get the tubing to wrap around the side marker light.
Low profile tube on the rear bumper, kicked out just a bit past the flares. Still plenty of room for both swingouts
I also received a replacement diesel tach today, thanks Sheldon!! I'll see if I can get the tach going tomorrow
Couldn't smoke on startup also be related to a leaky turbo pushing oil through the intake tube? Mine smokes like a SOB for the first couple minutes then clears out. Heavy white smoke I must add. Oil loss is barely apparent on the dipstick over 5k oil change intervals.
Sorry to clog the thread @Rock40 , love the way your build is turning out!
Oil burning is usually blue smoke. Some quick googling sez:
"White smoke occurs when raw diesel comes through the exhaust completely intact and unburned. Some causes of this include…
Faulty or damaged injectors
- Incorrect injection timing (could be a worn timing gear or damaged crankshaft keyway).
- Low cylinder compression (eg caused by leaking or broken valves, piston ring sticking, cylinder and/or ring wear, or cylinder glaze)
Water entering combustion spaces will also create white smoke. Faulty head gaskets and cracked cylinder heads or blocks are a common cause of water entry, and are often to blame. Unfortunately, expensive mechanical repair is the only proper solution here. "
Diesel Smoke tells YOU a Story
- Thread starter
- #507
Yeah, I agree. As others have said, these DI diesels can also just be....a bit smoky when cold. It would not surprise me in the least however, if the injectors needed some work and I've never tested the compression either. As far as I can tell, it's not consuming oil and the engine has decent power and good economy. It is most definitely caused by something but I should probably complain a bit less if some blue smoke is my biggest complaint toward the end of this swap.
Excellent build. I've really enjoyed your thread.
Don't stress about the blue smoke! Everyone instantly thinks oil burning when they see it, but often it can be diesel burning inefficiently also. Easiest way to tell is to smell it. Now if you look at the fuel pump tuning thread someone linked to above, you will see a couple guys who have recently tweaked the tuning on the 1HDT injection pumps. They both had blue smoke problems at startup and after idling for a bit. Both their problems went away when they tuned their boost compensators better.
I've included a section of a Denso injection pump manual (below). This section talks about White, Blue and Black diesel smoke and explains the differences. Start reading at the bottom of the first page.
Assuming it's diesel smoke, you're going to need a little less fuel at idle. This means moving the boost compensator fuel pin up a bit. This will effect some other things, but it's not rocket science to improve the tune on these pumps. Dead simple once you understand it. Just read read read. I won't get into it here.
- Thread starter
- #509
Thanks and appreciate it!Excellent build. I've really enjoyed your thread.
Don't stress about the blue smoke! Everyone instantly thinks oil burning when they see it, but often it can be diesel burning inefficiently also. Easiest way to tell is to smell it. Now if you look at the fuel pump tuning thread someone linked to above, you will see a couple guys who have recently tweaked the tuning on the 1HDT injection pumps. They both had blue smoke problems at startup and after idling for a bit. Both their problems went away when they tuned their boost compensators better.
I've included a section of a Denso injection pump manual (below). This section talks about White, Blue and Black diesel smoke and explains the differences. Start reading at the bottom of the first page.
Assuming it's diesel smoke, you're going to need a little less fuel at idle. This means moving the boost compensator fuel pin up a bit. This will effect some other things, but it's not rocket science to improve the tune on these pumps. Dead simple once you understand it. Just read read read. I won't get into it here.
The smoke has a pretty heavy "diesel" smell, not like burned oil. Again, only at cold start up
- Thread starter
- #510
OH MY WORD!
This is at cold start-up with the hand throttle pulled out just a bit. Factory idle is right at 600rmp. The red "overboost" light should not be on but that's a small issue for future troubleshooting. THANKS FOR THE WORKING TACH SHELDON!
This is at cold start-up with the hand throttle pulled out just a bit. Factory idle is right at 600rmp. The red "overboost" light should not be on but that's a small issue for future troubleshooting. THANKS FOR THE WORKING TACH SHELDON!
- Thread starter
- #511
Just to put the question of correct tach/conversion wiring totally to rest, here is a simple diagram. The wires from my IP sensor are both the same color (BLUE) but I think others may be different. I don't believe the sensor cares which one is connected to ground.
I was thinking about using the overboost light as a glow indicator.
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OH MY WORD!
View attachment 1204151
This is at cold start-up with the hand throttle pulled out just a bit. Factory idle is right at 600rmp. The red "overboost" light should not be on but that's a small issue for future troubleshooting. THANKS FOR THE WORKING TACH SHELDON!
Very cool, congratulations!
On my truck the sensors for the boost and overboost are on a bracket that grounds through the bolt. If the ground is interrupted, the overboost light stays on, just like yours.
Maybe that is the problem.
cheers,
Jan
The diesel cluster has a dedicated glow indicator.
I know. My NA cluster does not and that is what the 1HDT is sitting infront of.
I haven't pulled the 2 clusters apart yet. If there is a way to migrate the glow indicator itself, I will.
- Thread starter
- #516
Interesting, I fooled around with this a bit today but couldn't figure it out. Does anyone happen to have either a 1HD-T or 1HD-FT ENGINE wiring schematic? I've been through all mine but I don't have anything that addresses the diesel specific wiring/sensors. I've got the dash side, just not the engine.
Looking very good!
FWIW I found Fred Myer better than Chevron in the visual smoke department lol
FWIW I found Fred Myer better than Chevron in the visual smoke department lol
- Thread starter
- #518
Thanks!
I picked up a bottle of LUCAS Injector Cleaner today, we'll see if that makes any difference. I can vouch that I got 2+MPG in my 69' FJ40 with a 5.7 Vortec while towing a trailer using the LUCAS stuff. And that was during a 5,200+ camping roadtrip, it does work...
1996 Turbo pressure switch T7 should have two wires, Green/Yellow to the cluster, and White/Black to ground. Earlier ones had multiple wires to trip the two different turbo lights.
Received my aftermarket sensor, it is tiny, yet looks really well built.
Received my aftermarket sensor, it is tiny, yet looks really well built.
- Thread starter
- #520
Nice Steve! The sensor I have has three wires, Green/Yellow, Green/White and Green/Red. Thanks for the diagram, I'm guessing part of my issues are the fact that the Green/White is not hooked to ground.