Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

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Rock40 said:
Any progress on the drivetrain install?
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Getting closer. I have a batch of parts to deliver to the shop this week, and I need to pick up my Safari Intercooler to do some pre-work and fitment of that radiator. My gas tank also needs to be burned-out and then sealed/coated after finding out that the POR-15 was degrading; another unplanned expense.

This last weekend I actually wrapped up most of the engine compartment wiring preparations, and even "powered" everything up to test my circuits. It is pretty cool to be able to do so without even having an engine or transmission in place. Turned on the radio/iPod for an hour while having fun with circuits. Even the Turbo light lit up "orange" and turned off when ground is provided. My manual Glow Circuit is ready to trip the glow relay too. Found out one of my cluster lights was out after installing it...figures, as it is a PITA to install.

The good news is that the only circuit which I am still scratching my head with is the Cruise Control. Pin 2 of the CC ECU has a constant +12V signal coming out, where the wiring diagram for the HDJ with ATM setup shows it receiving a constant +12V feed when in D. With the FZJ and ATM the +12V is applied only when the ignition switch is in the ST1 start position. Lastly, the HDJ with a MTM is also different, providing a +12V signal when the clutch is depressed, thus dis-engaging the Cruise. With all of these Pin 2 disengages the Cruise, and each setup using a different trigger signal is what seems odd to me. I may just return it to the FZJ ATM setup, but I am contemplating adding a Diode to the HDJ MTM setup to prevent any bleed of voltage into what is now part of my clutch-safety circuit (replacing the role of the NSS). The only wiring change I made so far was to remove the Pin 2 which came from the ST1 circuit, and replacing it with the clutch activated +12V. It may be the case that I cannot get this sorted until I have the thing actually on the road and can see how it reacts.

Ross, were you ever able to get your Cruise running? When I looked at the Black/Orange line and adding +12v to that, it did not make much sense with a '96, as the Black/Orange no longer is connected with the Engine ECM, nor with the CC ECU. Adding voltage to that wire would not do anything that I could tell according to the EWD.
 
Steve, thanks for the update on your project and for chipping in with all the stuff you've figured out. I can't wait to see yours actually start coming together with the drivetrain.

My wife and I just returned from 3+ weeks in Costa Rica last night so the FJ has been sitting idle for quite some time now. I need to swap out the cracked radiator, figure out the tach (probably swap out the whole unit) and attempt to figure out the cruise. It was painful to see the factory Toyota VX vehicles down there in CR. Factory solid axles, lockers, LHD, diesel and a pretty decent price tag NEW from Toyota. If the states would allow it, I'd happily make payments to Mr. Toyota in order to avoid all the swapping fun.

Thanks for the info on the 12v+ behind the cluster, I wasn't aware that it wasn't powering anything.
 
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Just too damn cool, 2012 Toyota VX in Costa Rica... Makes you wonder what is so wrong about these that we just absolutely CANNOT have them in the USA
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More research into EWDs for different year models show the CC ECU's using CC Pin 3.

CC Pin 3 is for the parking brake circuit, and when the parking brake is engaged and ground is provided, the system cancels Cruise. Is not used in the FZJ. I am going to setup a simple relay to provide ground, triggered via the +12v of the clutch switch. The relay can be secured to the CC ECU mounting points and will have only a very short set of wires tucked up out of the way.

Relay Pin 30 = GND Signal In to Relay
Relay Pin 85 = GND Signal for Circuit
Relay Pin 86 = +12V from Clutch Switch (trigger signal)
Relay Pin 87 = GND out of Relay to Pin 3 on CC ECU

CC Pin 2, Black/White wire, can be reconnected to the SW1 circuit as from the factory.

In theory, this should work to cancel Cruise when the clutch is depressed, and is isolated from the Clutch-Safety Starting circuit.

Now I just need to find out if there is a need for my glow screen with the Safari Intercooler...I found out today that the screen is replaced with an adapter, which indeed is interesting. For those who have added the Safari Intercooler to your 1HD-FT, how is your below freezing starting without the screen? Below 0 degrees F starting? Not that this is my daily issue, but I do spend time at our cabin which is at 7500' and can get down to zero F at times.
 
CycloSteve said:
Now I just need to find out if there is a need for my glow screen with the Safari Intercooler...I found out today that the screen is replaced with an adapter, which indeed is interesting. For those who have added the Safari Intercooler to your 1HD-FT, how is your below freezing starting without the screen? Below 0 degrees F starting? Not that this is my daily issue, but I do spend time at our cabin which is at 7500' and can get down to zero F at times.
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Time for a webasto?
 
Couple of updates on this:

I installed a factory hand throttle cable, for under $30 a pretty darn good upgrade. It bolts right in with no modifications and works very well
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I'm still fighting with the tachometer at this point. I have another unit on the way from 70sguy in BC but I'm looking for some clarification on the pickup wiring. Here is what the pickup looks like on the back of the IP (spare pump just for reference I know the wires look toast)
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Both of the BLUE wires terminate on this plug which also shares the wire for the fuel cut solenoid.
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I understand that the pulse signal for the tachometer is being generated by the sensor (my guess is a Hall type sensor) on the rear of the IP. Here's where I need some clarification. I believe that the IP sensor is grounded through the IP itself. One of the blue wires should receive a 12V ignition hot signal. As the engine runs (and the IP rotates) the sensor should convert the "solid" 12V into a "pulse" which in turns drives the tachometer.

Am I correct in this thinking? I've tried everything that I've just described and the tach obviously still does not work. Can anyone meter out that plug for me and let me know if one of the blue wires is getting 12V with the ignition "on"?

Any help will be much appreciated. I've torn the whole dash apart (again) and I've verified that I have the correct "pulse" wire hooked up. My guess is that either the tach is dead or the sensor on the IP is no good. I just want to verify that the wiring is right though.
 
A few other parts also. I swapped out the cracked radiator and replaced it with a correct "diesel" version several days ago.
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And after running the 1st tank of fuel through it, the math states it got 22.9 MPG, not too shabby.
 
Lol, 'merican of course. With the $2 per gallon price for diesel in the Seattle area it only makes sense to drive it!! My 84' mini truck with a swapped 22RE only gets 20mpg so I'm really pleased with the economy on the FT.
 
I feel like I finally made some progress with some of the wiring hurdles I've been struggling with lately....in regards to my previous post, research shows the tach should be a GROUNDED circuit and not powered by 12V at the IP sensor. I still have not gotten the tach to work but I'm hoping the new (replacement) one from BC will be functional.

I did however, figure out the oil pressure gauge. After pouring over the EWD's, this is the engine bay plug that contains the wire for the oil pressure gauge.
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The white wire runs up to the back of the gauge cluster. I have it jumped (temporarily) with the green wire. My plan is to go to a junkyard in the future and source up the correct plug. On the EWD's it is: EA4
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Anyway, after getting that wired up correctly, the oil pressure gauge reads just under the "1/2" mark at cold idle. Success

I also sorted out the "low oil warning" circuit. From what I can figure, some trucks/engines have this and some do not. The pink wire is from the 1H2 connector behind the glove box, pin position #7...
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After removing the pink wire from the 1H2 connector, it can be run out the firewall and down to the low oil level sensor on the engine. It's a 2 wire sensor, one lead is ground (black/white) and the other is connected to the pink wire. Once hooked up, the little "oil can" dummy light on the dash should only illuminate in a low oil situation. Problem solved....
 
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So, I'm slowly chipping away at the little stuff left on this swap. Here's a pic of cold idle: It's blowing blue smoke which goes away after driving a short distance. Others have stated that some blue smoke is pretty normal on a "cold" startup. Does the majority opinion agree with this? The engine runs very smoothly at all temps and seems to have very good power, just plenty of blue smoke on start-up. The Shepherd is practically choking on it....
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Try filling the diesel filter with seafoam, I've found that helps clear up the smoke at cold idle on mine.
 
Hi Ross,

Much of your issues are due to missing the complete 1FZ-FE harness.

With the Oil Pressure signal, you are missing a removable part of the loom. This piece has the two oil pressure wires in the middle, the AC compressor wire on the upper left, and the corresponding plug you need to mate with the loom on the lower right. This should be an easy part to acquire as all FZJ's would have this bit.

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The oil level wiring from the 1FZ-FE harness would have also been in place in the engine compartment, only needing to be plugged into the 1HD-FT sensor.

With the tacho it receives the +12v at the cluster, and the black wire from the IP plug should be giving it a pulse signal (to ground?).

I am going with an aftermarket pressure sensor for my turbo light, which will provide the ground based on my PSI setting. That is a pretty simple circuit, with +12v again coming from the gauge cluster, and the sensor providing ground to turn off the light, and and open circuit for it to turn on. I would imagine that you should be able to test the sensor with a bike pump to the feed line, getting it up and over 15 PSI should trigger the light.

With my sedimenter, I am wiring that to a small red LED in the dash. Nothing OEM there other than the sensor at the bottom of the fuel filter. I will repurpose a wire from the 1FZ-FE to carry the signal up to my dash.

Wiring the vacuum sensor on the tank to the brake light, as that is how it is done at the factory; really simple there.
 
I wired my sedimenter to the check engine light, since w/o the ECU it has no purpose.
My 1HD-FT also makes the grey blue until it gets up to operating temp too. Common for the jap DI diesels.
 
Cool, thanks for the info. Since this engine came from the UK filthy I'm going to run a bunch of LUCAS cleaner through the fuel, possibly some SeaFoam as suggested and go from there. The smoke is just a bit on the obnoxious side is all but if that is normall, ehhhh. The injectors have also not been cleaned/balanced/rebuilt at this point.

As posted by Steve above, I sourced up the correct wiring pigtail from Tor at Torfab today. That will clean up the wiring quite a bit and now I have the correct connector for the AC pump.

Off to borrow my buddy's JD2 bender so I can add some tube work to the front and rear bumpers + get the sliders done :D The M416 camping trailer fits nicely behind the 80...
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I wonder if the grey/blue smoke is temperature/weather related. All our Jap DI diesels here burn clean on startup but our weather is a lot warmer at the moment. Could be slight cylinder wall glazing which could be overcome by some hard runs up a mountain pass.
 
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