Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

[Dave 2000]

That's a lot of words to incorrectly claim that the countless part time trucks Toyota designed and is designing are unsteerable death traps. Anyway, let's not spam this valuable thread with this.
Regards

Let me know where I said that please, I guess your understanding of the English language is different to most other people? I stated that AWD is better than PT when pushing around a corner, I gave the reason why, but when facts are presented that some don't quite understand they simply cannot resist firing off a round, whether from ignorance or just to stir the pot I don't know, but you are right about one thing, this debate should not spoil a great thread, if anyone wants to continue then please start a new thread.

regards

Dave

 

[Rock40]

The issue of fuel lines has come up, mainly the fact that my gasser has an 8mm line when the diesel trucks were equipped with a 12mm supply line. I spent the morning replacing the rear main seal and the transmission pilot bearing on the 1HD-FT then I removed the middle row seats to get at the fuel tank access cover.

 

[Rock40]

So, here are my thoughts at this point. The diesel fuel lines are not available new (I checked) and shipping something that awkward to the USA would, simply put, not be worth it.

To bump the main fuel line size up to at least 12mm to flow the heavier diesel, I'm planning to swap out the entire main line to AN fittings with an AN (diesel compatible) fuel line. 10AN is equivalent to 1/2" or right around 12.5mm or so. I've had VERY good luck with AN stuff. My 69' FJ40 is entirely AN, including all the brake line fittings and NOTHING ever leaks.

I'm looking at the threaded banjo fitting which is currently adapted into the top of the fuel tank cover mount. Right now, the plan is to remove the threaded banjo fitting all together, then TIG weld a stainless NPT bung or AN fitting into the top. The metal is plenty thick enough to TIG weld without warping in my opinion. Once the bung or AN fitting is in place, it would be a relatively simple matter to extend the fuel pickup to the bottom of the tank with a piece of hardline, than run the 10AN flex line up to the IP. I think I'll run a 12 volt "pusher" pump to take some of the strain off the IP also. That should be easy since 12V ignition hot is already present to run the "in tank" pump found on the gasser trucks.

Has this been done before? Please don't hate me for deviating from factory Toyota stuff but some if this can get a bit ridiculous.......This method would eliminate the "in tank" pump and the factory fuel sock also however it would retain all the factory gauges, sensors and wiring. I should mention that I have about 2" of head space (51mm) between the top of the fuel tank cover and the access cover on the floor of the truck. It should be plenty.

The pic shows an aluminum 3/8 NPT bung just for reference. It would go directly over/replace the threaded banjo fitting.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I would suggest the following: Get the correct fuel pickup for a diesel-it is still available. It has a different filter than the gasser, and obviously no fuel pump stuff.
The low fuel light will still work, the plug should be the same.
Then simply run a thicker fuel line to the fuel filter in the engine compartment.
There is absolutely no need for a pusher pump. A good injection pump has extremely strong suction and the pusher pump is only required if the IP is completely worn out or tired or leaking.
cheers,
Jan

 

[Dave 2000]

I would suggest the following: Get the correct fuel pickup for a diesel-it is still available. It has a different filter than the gasser, and obviously no fuel pump stuff.
The low fuel light will still work, the plug should be the same.
Then simply run a thicker fuel line to the fuel filter in the engine compartment.
There is absolutely no need for a pusher pump. A good injection pump has extremely strong suction and the pusher pump is only required if the IP is completely worn out or tired or leaking.
cheers,
Jan

Agree, although as the pick up is just that a pick up I would be happy with the custom made job, also does your gasoline fuel tank have a baffle around the pick up, the diesel versions do? I would add that some have fitted a 'pusher pump' in the UK, it is normally the 4 -5 psi Walbro unit, the reasons for fitting it are varied from improves performance to easier to bleed the system. I had thought about fitting one until i read an article about IP's that have the 'lift pump' built in as per the Toyota unit, if you apply pressure, the 'thrust' moves the pump internals away from their correct running position and cause premature wear, this is only something I have read and have no evidence to back it up. I do know that an ageing primer rubber diaphragm can get pin holes, and this often shows up after a filter change and causes rough running, fitting the pusher pump removes the need for the diaphragm.

regards

Dave

 

[Greg_B]

I would be tempted to go the factory fuel pickup for diesel and run the line as Jan has suggested...but but if you're comfortable with your suggest route...go for it.

Not to derail your excellent build thread so I will simply post this once on this subject: There are a number of good informative threads on pusher pump discussions that have been on Mud and consistent thoughts on both sides. I have no problem running one (and do). I think it;s a good thing for a number of reasons mentioned by various people in the following threads:

Walbro Fuel Pump

Teach me about pusher pumps

Electric fuel pumps on diesel Injection Pumps

Looking forward to following your progress with this swap.

hth's
gb

 

[troopie]

If you want an original diesel pickup. I have a complete HDJ80 fuel tank sitting here and could get the pickup out of it. It's yours for the shipping cost. The tank will probably end up on the scrap pile anyway.

Mark

 

[Rock40]

If you want an original diesel pickup. I have a complete HDJ80 fuel tank sitting here and could get the pickup out of it. It's yours for the shipping cost. The tank will probably end up on the scrap pile anyway.

Mark

Ummmm, you're making this too easy for me if you want to part with it I'll gladly pay shipping as using the Toyota stuff would be the easiest route.

You're in the Netherlands right? My wife is 100% Dutch, she still has family there. Thanks for the help!!

 

[troopie]

No problem at all. Just look at it as my thank you for a very informative thread

Yes i'm Dutch. It's a small country, but it seems we invaded almost everywhere!

 

[Rock40]

I would be tempted to go the factory fuel pickup for diesel and run the line as Jan has suggested...but but if you're comfortable with your suggest route...go for it.

Not to derail your excellent build thread so I will simply post this once on this subject: There are a number of good informative threads on pusher pump discussions that have been on Mud and consistent thoughts on both sides. I have no problem running one (and do). I think it;s a good thing for a number of reasons mentioned by various people in the following threads:

Walbro Fuel Pump

Teach me about pusher pumps

Electric fuel pumps on diesel Injection Pumps

Looking forward to following your progress with this swap.

hth's
gb

Sheesh, I finally got through reading all these threads. I guess my thoughts are it can't hurt and at the very least, it will assist big time with getting the whole system primed after a filter change. Thanks for the info

 

[CycloSteve]

Interesting find that the diesel fuel lines are bigger; it makes sense. The last thing I would want to do is starve the motor of fuel.

For those who have done this conversion (or 1HD-T) on their 80, what have you done to help ensure adequate fuel? Jan? It looks like a few went down the path of a pusher pump, but that seems to have controversy. I would lean towards getting a diesel fuel pickup and running larger lines to the rotary pump. I already have the gasser dual tank pickup, so that complicates things in my setup. It looks like the single tank pickup is 77017-60150, the dual is 77017-60110, and neither shows up in partsouq as available. Has anyone asked Dave at Japan4x4 about availability?

Who has just stuck with a simple inlet (replacing the gasser electric pump) and keeping the smaller fuel lines? Welded a larger bung, as in post #163? Interested in hearing about solutions to the issue before spending the monies, or cutting into perfectly good components.

 

[Workhorse]

Dave Stedman sold me the proper diesel fuel lines and pickup out of a diesel 80 that was being parted out. I also installed a Walbro FRB5 pump to help fuel delivery at the suggestion of a very well known "swap wizard". I have had zero issues with my pump (pusher or IP) and or anything related to fuel delivery thus far and completed my swap over 5 years and 100K miles ago. The last thing I would want is fuel starvation or more stress on the IP than absolutely necessary. Big Toyota Factory diesel lines, Toyota Factory diesel pickup and Walbro FRB5 pusher pump for me all the way.

My $.02...

 

[Locked79]

The reason the diesel fuel lines are bigger is because the diesel fuel has 2 purposes. #1 is to run the engine and #2 is to cool the injectors and fuel pump. Thats why so much diesel is returned back to the tank. Keeping the injectors and pump cool prolongs service life and keeps tolerances in check.

 

[Rock40]

Dave Stedman sold me the proper diesel fuel lines and pickup out of a diesel 80 that was being parted out. I also installed a Walbro FRB5 pump to help fuel delivery at the suggestion of a very well known "swap wizard". I have had zero issues with my pump (pusher or IP) and or anything related to fuel delivery thus far and completed my swap over 5 years and 100K miles ago. The last thing I would want is fuel starvation or more stress on the IP than absolutely necessary. Big Toyota Factory diesel lines, Toyota Factory diesel pickup and Walbro FRB5 pusher pump for me all the way.

My $.02...

This is more or less the route I plan on going, minus the factory hard lines between the tank and the IP.

Here's an odd fact though. The inlet on the 24 valve is 10mm while the inlet on my spare 12 valve is 12mm. I heard at some point, Toyota upped the fuel inlet for the later version 12 valves. Bottom line is, I know the 8mm lines I currently have won't cut it and larger is better.

 

[Greg_B]

For those who have done this conversion (or 1HD-T) on their 80, what have you done to help ensure adequate fuel? Jan? It looks like a few went down the path of a pusher pump, but that seems to have controversy.

Does not directly answer your question however to clarify...when I put the 1HD-T into the 1994 FZJ80 I had all the correct lines and pickup for the diesel and also installed the FRB5. I'll be using another Walbro for my subtank transfer when I get to it.

hth's
gb

 

[CycloSteve]

The practical side of me says it will be easier to put a larger bung on my pickup assembly and go with a custom set of fuel hard lines vs. trying to source a set of OEM lines. Sorting out the subtank should be simple enough, as I like the transfer setup of the gas 80's.

 

[Rock40]

Welding a bung would certainly work and all the necessary fittings are readily available, I checked.

However, the OEM tank cover/inlet is now on it's way to me from the Netherlands, let's see how everything measures up when it arrives. I'll be using non-Toyota lines tho

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

The practical side of me says it will be easier to put a larger bung on my pickup assembly and go with a custom set of fuel hard lines vs. trying to source a set of OEM lines. Sorting out the subtank should be simple enough, as I like the transfer setup of the gas 80's.

I used the correct diesel pickup with a wide custom line to the pump. The pickup was available from Dave then.
My second tank pumps into the primary, so no issues there.

 

[Rock40]

Jan, that is exactly the plan right now. I'll use the OEM tank fittings and run the largest lines I can between the tank, filter and IP. I just picked up a Racor 400 series filter assembly on Ebay (cheap) to replace the Toyota OEM one. The Racor unit uses cheaper filters which are readily available in the USA, is equipped with a manual priming device, has a "see through bowl" and it can also be fitted with a 12 volt heater. All that makes sense to me......

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Jan, that is exactly the plan right now. I'll use the OEM tank fittings and run the largest lines I can between the tank, filter and IP. I just picked up a Racor 400 series filter assembly on Ebay (cheap) to replace the Toyota OEM one. The Racor unit uses cheaper filters which are readily available in the USA, is equipped with a manual priming device, has a "see through bowl" and it can also be fitted with a 12 volt heater. All that makes sense to me......
View attachment 1153719

Yes, that sounds pretty much perfect.