Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

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Greg_B said:
Does not directly answer your question however to clarify...when I put the 1HD-T into the 1994 FZJ80 I had all the correct lines and pickup for the diesel and also installed the FRB5. I'll be using another Walbro for my subtank transfer when I get to it.

hth's
gb
Click to expand...
I've done/will do the same. I run a FRB-5 on a switch for priming and will also use one as a sub-tank transfer pump as the pump can be safely run dry for up to 4 hours. Makes it very simple to just use a switch that activates a timed relay to run the pump for 20mins or so; enough time to fill the main tank.
 
My 45 has that Racor installed already, so likely to go that route too with the 80...that setup is simple, and you can get the filters anywhere in the US. I have posted a WTB in the Classifieds for the OEM tank assembly and lines, and will also check with Dave to see if he can get those.
 
tweeek said:
Do you have a proper EWD to figure out wiring for your conversion?
Click to expand...

No, I will need one in the future, wiring will likely come last. Not looking forward to it.....
 
Crap, it won't load on my iPhone, thanks tho, I'm sure it will be handy in the future
 
Works for me, but it's a 59MB file and takes a few minutes to load.
 
Working for me as well, not fast but consistent on the DL
 
Got the oil pan back on today after finally receiving all the correct con rod bolts from overseas. I'll be stabbing the trans and transfer onto the engine in the next 3 days (hopefully).

I'm currently looking at how I'm going to modify the rear crossmember mount, namely the threaded "nutserts" that exist in the framerail. I've got a pretty good plan which should be very "factory" in appearance when finished. More on that later.

I also pulled out the automatic trans shift assembly today as I'm going to modify the metal base (as Nick did) to accept all the 5 speed shift boots and the 5 speed ABS shift console. This pic shows all the rubber seals, grommets, and electrical relays removed. What you're left with is a bunch of spot welded on mounts which need to go. That, and it's super crusty from the gallons of soda and coffee that were likely spilled on it. The media blaster will take care of that.
IMG_1576.webp


The only two brackets that need to be retained are the rearmost pair. The rear of the ABS 5 speed console will bolt up to them. DON'T CUT THEM OFF but remove everything else.
IMG_1578.webp

All the sad little bits are now removed. I used a BLAIR spot weld cutter, they work excellent and I bought an entire kit when I did a bunch of sheet metal work on my FJ40. All you need is a center punch and a hand drill. They cut around the spot weld removing the piece you want to get rid of but they won't ruin the metal underneath (if you're careful). I also used a DREMEL with a cutting wheel to break the welds on the large shift pin/rod.
IMG_1580.webp

All that's left behind is the little spot weld "nubbin" if you will. I'll grind all these off and smooth everything out with some 3M pads in the future. I'm using the automatic shift plate during this conversion because as Nick pointed out in his thread, you're able to use all the factory "nutserts" which are already in the floorpan and you'll also get a very good air/heat seal around the floor. After the trans goes in, this piece will require some more mods.
 
My two cents:

You'll find that you have to elongate the upper hole of that shift plate such that it won't seal. It's easy enough to make a custom plate out of 14 gauge or so, which is the route i went.

At this point, the sheet metal for the transfer case shifter had not been cut:

IMG_20150625_143814.jpg


And this is for the transfer case shifter. The transfer case shift boot is pretty large and attaches to the shift tower, hence the seemingly excessive clearance:

IMG_20151014_173905.jpg


This is the plate I made to cover, and seal, the hole. As a sealing measure, I simply took some adhesive backed closed-cell foam tape and outlined this plate a couple of times:

IMG_20151014_173845.jpg
 
Hmmm, great info. I can see now how much further forward the manual trans extends compared to the auto.

I may go this route, I've got a perfect sized piece of 14 gauge in my shop right now.....
 
Here's a pic of where the transmission pokes up through the tunnel. It's significantly farther forward than the automatic.

IMG_20150703_174418.jpg
 
No kidding, really appreciate the info. It's hard to visualize this stuff when it's still out of the truck.
 
Thanks :) I use a USA made Scat Blast cabinet, model 780 I think. I've had it for years and it has been nothing but great. They are sold by TPTools
 
Last edited:
Rock40 said:
No kidding, really appreciate the info. It's hard to visualize this stuff when it's still out of the truck.
Click to expand...

I will say that this H151 is in a 1FZ powered 80, but based on my conversations with @Tapage , the shift tower placement is the same between automatic and manual.
 
Rock40 said:
Got the oil pan back on today after finally receiving all the correct con rod bolts from overseas. I'll be stabbing the trans and transfer onto the engine in the next 3 days (hopefully).

I'm currently looking at how I'm going to modify the rear crossmember mount, namely the threaded "nutserts" that exist in the framerail. I've got a pretty good plan which should be very "factory" in appearance when finished. More on that later.

I also pulled out the automatic trans shift assembly today as I'm going to modify the metal base (as Nick did) to accept all the 5 speed shift boots and the 5 speed ABS shift console. This pic shows all the rubber seals, grommets, and electrical relays removed. What you're left with is a bunch of spot welded on mounts which need to go. That, and it's super crusty from the gallons of soda and coffee that were likely spilled on it. The media blaster will take care of that.
View attachment 1154713

The only two brackets that need to be retained are the rearmost pair. The rear of the ABS 5 speed console will bolt up to them. DON'T CUT THEM OFF but remove everything else.
View attachment 1154714
All the sad little bits are now removed. I used a BLAIR spot weld cutter, they work excellent and I bought an entire kit when I did a bunch of sheet metal work on my FJ40. All you need is a center punch and a hand drill. They cut around the spot weld removing the piece you want to get rid of but they won't ruin the metal underneath (if you're careful). I also used a DREMEL with a cutting wheel to break the welds on the large shift pin/rod.
View attachment 1154717
All that's left behind is the little spot weld "nubbin" if you will. I'll grind all these off and smooth everything out with some 3M pads in the future. I'm using the automatic shift plate during this conversion because as Nick pointed out in his thread, you're able to use all the factory "nutserts" which are already in the floorpan and you'll also get a very good air/heat seal around the floor. After the trans goes in, this piece will require some more mods.
Click to expand...

Since you've made your own plate, you can probably lop off the rear console mounting bracket and just bolt it into the bottom 3 nutserts.
 
gnarlynick2072 said:
Since you've made your own plate, you can probably lop off the rear console mounting bracket and just bolt it into the bottom 3 nutserts.
Click to expand...

Nick, I was just looking at that last night when I got home. That, or breaking the spot welds on the rear console mounts and just re-welding them to a custom plate. There's really only 2 goals: the plate needs to seal the floor and the provide mounts for the console.

On another note, my computer finally ponied up and downloaded the electrical diagrams!! :clap:
 
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