Engine rebuild?

[krkenyon]

Hi,
Brand new to the forum, first post. I have a '97 Collector's Edition Land Cruiser. It is consuming some serious oil. I had a leak down test done on the cylinders. The results stated "compression is leaking through the piston rings." I would like some advice. Should I rebuild this 1FZ-FE motor to keep the original with the vehicle or should I buy a remanufactured engine? Also, is there a reputable source to purchase the reman. engine that anyone can recommend? If I decide not to rebuild can I have the next size bigger engine put in without having to change the transmission as well (2UZ-FE)?
Thank you,
KK

 

[scottryana]

How did they determine it was the piston rings?

 

[ppc]

Most high oil consumption issues with the 1FZ-FE motors are not related to ring failures but valve seals, bad PVC and leaks.

What do you consider "consuming some serious oil". How many miles per quart, what type of oil? What is the history of this motor, recent repairs, how long has the consumption been an issue?

 

[krkenyon]

How did they determine it was the piston rings?

They did a leak down test and measured where the pressure was escaping. Mechanic said it was leaking around the piston rings and provided me these measurements.

Cylinder 1 - 165 PSI - 23% leak down
Cylinder 2 - 160 PSI - 20% leak down
Cylinder 3 - 165 PSI - 47% leak down
Cylinder 4 - 180 PSI - 33% leak down
Cylinder 5 - 170 PSI - 62% leak down
Cylinder 6 - 175 PSI - 55% leak down

I'm no mechanic at all. It is burning oil. I have added 2 quarts in the last 1000 miles.

 

[krkenyon]

Most high oil consumption issues with the 1FZ-FE motors are not related to ring failures but valve seals, bad PVC and leaks.

What do you consider "consuming some serious oil". How many miles per quart, what type of oil? What is the history of this motor, recent repairs, how long has the consumption been an issue?

We bought the car about 4 months ago. The seller said "it's an old car, it burns a little oil." We already changed the PCV valve hoping to minimize the consumption. It hasn't changed. It is parked in my garage and doesn't leak any oil. In the last 1,000 miles I have added 2 quarts to keep oil on the dipstick.

 

[baldilocks]

My preference would be to rebuild it myself with a local machine shop so I could have control over the entire process. My second choice would be finding an engine builder who knows the 1fz and have my own engine rebuilt by that person as long as the distance wasn’t too much. The closer to home the operation takes place, the more control you will have during and afterwards.

The idea of buying a remanufactured engine brings about thoughts of possible future problems I don’t want to deal with.

 

[Tools R Us]

They did a leak down test and measured where the pressure was escaping. Mechanic said it was leaking around the piston rings and provided me these measurements.

Cylinder 1 - 165 PSI - 23% leak down
Cylinder 2 - 160 PSI - 20% leak down
Cylinder 3 - 165 PSI - 47% leak down
Cylinder 4 - 180 PSI - 33% leak down
Cylinder 5 - 170 PSI - 62% leak down
Cylinder 6 - 175 PSI - 55% leak down

I'm no mechanic at all. It is burning oil. I have added 2 quarts in the last 1000 miles.

IMHO, compression testing is highly interpretive, how it is done, etc, matters, leak down even more so. They should confirm each other, consistently, and your math doesn't add? So, the lowest compression cylinder, 160psi, is only leaking 20% past the rigs, and and one with 170psi is leaking 62%, not likely?

How does the motor run, any smoke, how often/long is it driven, what oil is in it? The compression numbers point to a good running motor. Replacing motors is a good ticket for shops, but I would look elsewhere for the root cause of the problem.

 

[krkenyon]

IMHO, compression testing is highly interpretive, how it is done, etc, matters, leak down even more so. They should confirm each other, consistently, and your math doesn't add? So, the lowest compression cylinder, 160psi, is only leaking 20% past the rigs, and and one with 170psi is leaking 62%, not likely?

How does the motor run, any smoke, how often/long is it driven, what oil is in it? The compression numbers point to a good running motor. Replacing motors is a good ticket for shops, but I would look elsewhere for the root cause of the problem.

It runs fine. No noticeable smoke. It is my sons car. He drives it daily about 10-15 miles.. It currently has 5W-30 in it, Valvoline I think. The shop replaced the oil 1100 miles ago. This is a local shop. Would you recommend I take it to the Toyota dealer nearest me to diagnose where the oil is going?

 

[ppc]

Toyota dealers are expensive, have expertise with new vehicles and very little experience with older Land Cruisers. I would choose an independent mechanic recommended by some local people in your area.

5W-30 oil is a low viscosity for an older motor. I would choose something in the 10W-40 range. Are you certain that when the oil was changed it was filled to the proper level? The Land Cruiser takes ~8 quarts when replacing the filter. I think most engines would be ~5 quarts so an inexperienced grease monkey at the local JIffy Lube may have not put the correct amount in. Per Toyota 1 quart per 1000 miles is an acceptable amount of usage. I would run another 1000 miles to verify the oil consumption before I made any further decisions.

 

[baldilocks]

It runs fine. No noticeable smoke. It is my sons car. He drives it daily about 10-15 miles.. It currently has 5W-30 in it, Valvoline I think. The shop replaced the oil 1100 miles ago. This is a local shop. Would you recommend I take it to the Toyota dealer nearest me to diagnose where the oil is going?

Avoid dealerships because the guys who know the 80 have retired. Based on the info you provided in this paragraph, just keep running it and put a case of oil in the cargo area.

 

[graymudder]

Just to chime in with past some experience on bad shops. Wife's TDI was overfilled at the shop, when she went back they had a list of things to fix... happened to a friend , same shop. I do not trust shops or dealers.. I learned how to wrench, have a good library and most of the times I can diagnose my trucks. Go do another oil change check the dip markings. When fresh with new oil, check the dip markings and track every 100 miles, but some old cardboard under the engine after a drive , check next day for leaks

But I do understand your frustration.. take your time and get to the cause before spending dollars on a cure.


Good luck

 

[ajax1]

Used to do rebuilds on 1fzfe , about 3500 bucks for parts all Toyota. With Labor and machine work it was usually around 10k. This was a full rebuild. There are places you can cut the cost. On the company’s that offer “remaned engines” for 3500 hundred or less they are not using oem parts and I doubt doing full rebuild. If it’s your kids car I would just drive it and check the oil. Use a heavier weight like stated above. Rotella is cheap and my engine doesn’t burn it to bad. Agree with tools on who did your compression test doesnt make much sense.

 

[inkpot]

It runs fine. No noticeable smoke. It is my sons car. He drives it daily about 10-15 miles.. It currently has 5W-30 in it, Valvoline I think. The shop replaced the oil 1100 miles ago. This is a local shop. Would you recommend I take it to the Toyota dealer nearest me to diagnose where the oil is going?

Did the shop only put in 5 quarts like most motors need, or did the put in 8 like THIS motor needs?

 

[jaymar]

I have yet to find a rebuilt FZ crate motor supplier that doesn’t have “scammer” written all over it / large number of terrible reviews-complaints. Same for trannies, unless you order from Rodney’s Wholesale Automatics in AUS.

If anyone here can say otherwise, I’d love to hear it...

 

[krkenyon]

Did the shop only put in 5 quarts like most motors need, or did the put in 8 like THIS motor needs?

The receipt shows 7.8 qts

 

[krkenyon]

IMHO, compression testing is highly interpretive, how it is done, etc, matters, leak down even more so. They should confirm each other, consistently, and your math doesn't add? So, the lowest compression cylinder, 160psi, is only leaking 20% past the rigs, and and one with 170psi is leaking 62%, not likely?

How does the motor run, any smoke, how often/long is it driven, what oil is in it? The compression numbers point to a good running motor. Replacing motors is a good ticket for shops, but I would look elsewhere for the root cause of the problem.

Does the PSI figure represent cylinder compression? If so, I see your point about the numbers not adding up. I'm going to call the shop and have them explain it.

 

[ppc]

The receipt shows 7.8 qts

I'm guessing the grease monkey had nothing to do with the content of the receipt. That was most likely computer generated based on what was entered initially for make and model when the work order was created before the work was done.

When was the first time you checked the dipstick after the oil change?

 

[krkenyon]

I'm guessing the grease monkey had nothing to do with the content of the receipt. That was most likely computer generated based on what was entered initially for make and model when the work order was created before the work was done.

When was the first time you checked the dipstick after the oil change?

I knew it had been burning oil so I started checking the level within the first 100 miles. It was registering in the middle of the crosshatched safe area initially and slowly started going lower and lower. I think the proper amount was put in to begin with.

 

[Tanner H]

I think you'll find the majority of members dont use 5-30. Rotella 15-40 conventional has proven results here.

I'd drain and refill with something higher than 5-30 as a process of elimination. Might solve your problem, or slow it down a lot...or none of the above and you're only out 30 bucks.

Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon - Walmart.com

Buy Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

 

[krkenyon]

I think you'll find the majority of members dont use 5-30. Rotella 15-40 conventional has proven results here.

I'd drain and refill with something higher than 5-30 as a process of elimination. Might solve your problem, or slow it down a lot...or none of the above and you're only out 30 bucks.

Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon - Walmart.com

Buy Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

I think you'll find the majority of members dont use 5-30. Rotella 15-40 conventional has proven results here.

I'd drain and refill with something higher than 5-30 as a process of elimination. Might solve your problem, or slow it down a lot...or none of the above and you're only out 30 bucks.

Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon - Walmart.com

Buy Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

Everywhere I look for Shell Rotella 15w-40 it is described as "heavy duty diesel engine oil". Is this the stuff or is there a gas engine version I need to find?