Electronic F & 2F Distributors (1 Viewer)

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With the bigger cap di you have to change the cover plate on the side of the engine?
 
I currently have an internal ballast resisters coil and a points dizzy (you've seen a few pictures)

If I go with one of your dizzy's should I keep the same coil or upgrade to an Fj60 coil/ignitor?

Like so
P5170008mod.JPG
 
Trollhole said:
Just a heads up but I'm changing distributors. Early f dizzy will look the same but the guts are getting an upgrade. Going from a friction breaker plate to a roller bearing plate. As well a slightly improved curve. Price will also be going up in June to $165. Which for a new electronic dizzy shipped to your door is still a great deal.

The biggest news is the addition of a new 2f dizzy. Larger cap as well as roller bearing breaker plate. All my dizzys are vac advance. Price for the new unit will be $165 as well.

I will honor the old price of 150 for the rest of May. So if you have already bought a dizzy and want the 2f version just send me a pm. If you haven't bought a dizzy yet just put in the PayPal notes which one you want. Both will be coming the end of this month.
Click to expand...

PP being sent shortly for a 2F dizzy.

EDIT: Sent
 
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I'm trying to make sense of the PO's "fix's" , the vac line from my old dizzy was connected to the port on the intake manifold, crankcase vent to carb base and vac line at bottom of carb to biscuit on carb..doesn't seem right,and all the pics show vac line routing with smog crap,so I have no clear indication of what goes where...
 
jaredg said:
I currently have an internal ballast resisters coil and a points dizzy (you've seen a few pictures)

If I go with one of your dizzy's should I keep the same coil or upgrade to an Fj60 coil/ignitor?

Like so
P5170008mod.JPG
Click to expand...

You don't need an igniter with my setup. Just a non ballast resisted coil.
 
Titan said:
I'm trying to make sense of the PO's "fix's" , the vac line from my old dizzy was connected to the port on the intake manifold, crankcase vent to carb base and vac line at bottom of carb to biscuit on carb..doesn't seem right,and all the pics show vac line routing with smog crap,so I have no clear indication of what goes where...
Click to expand...


Post some pics of your old dizzy and carb.
 
Can one get by with taking the igniter off and just use the coil that was attached to the coil? Do you still need the ballast? Doesnt using the igniter give you a hotter spark at the plug?
 
GrnRvr said:
Sorry. I'm worse than a kid...Any idea when the new dizzies are coming in?
Click to expand...

Yes. Sorry. My peeps told me they will be shipping this Friday. So I should have them next week.
 
shipmag said:
Can one get by with taking the igniter off and just use the coil that was attached to the coil? Do you still need the ballast? Doesnt using the igniter give you a hotter spark at the plug?
Click to expand...

If the coil is designed to be used without a ballast resistor then yes use it. If your going to be throwing 14v at a coil designed to have 9-10v then your going to boil the oil in it and poof. Spark is spark when we are dealing with a tractor motor. No need for the igniter with my dizzy's. Think simple.
 
Can't wait till it comes, I've been dying to try it out!
My mechanical dizzy is in sad shape...
 
got my dizzy thanks it will be a long while before I can try it out. Dont mean to sound stupid but what does the ballast look like and what does the igniter look like? Trying to figure what part of my coil I need. Mine looks like the one in frame 66 above.
 
shipmag said:
got my dizzy thanks it will be a long while before I can try it out. Dont mean to sound stupid but what does the ballast look like and what does the igniter look like? Trying to figure what part of my coil I need. Mine looks like the one in frame 66 above.
Click to expand...

Don't worry, I have the same question but was afeared to ask it.
 
Trollhole said:
That's right. Electronic dizzys. Brand new. $165 shipped. In Stock

On this unit all you do is pop the old one out install the new one. Connect the black wire to the negative on the coil and the red wire to the positive side of the coil. That is it. You don't use the igniter that came on some of the later 40's and you don't need the ballast resistor that came on the early models.

Pro's
Fully electronic ignition.
It's a bolt in affair.
It's brand new.
No points to adjust.
Ball bearing breaker plates.
Solid pin for drive gear
Every unit is run through my distributor machine to verify the vac advance and mechanical advance ore within my specs and if they aren't I set them.

Electronic F vac advance dizzy
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=5SQGS7M6QM5S6

And if that doesn't work just go to this link cause I'm a tard when it comes to figuring out Woodys secret code things.

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=5SQGS7M6QM5S6

Electronic 2F vac advance dizzy
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=LF9QUSRS8P7AA

And if that doesn't work just go to this link cause I'm a tard when it comes to figuring out Woodys secret code things.

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=LF9QUSRS8P7AA

Contact me if your interested.
Click to expand...

Just got through reading this, very cool that no igniter is required!
 
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