Ebrake just ok (1 Viewer)

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new star washers and some extended dog bones from valley hybrids would be a relatively cheap way to help with your adjustment. Also, check and make sure the little swing arm where the cable splits to either wheel is moving back and forth freely. Adjusting the bell crank stop bolts with the hub off will allow you to see that your getting all of the additional slack out. It seems like if any one little thing isn't working then the parking brake on these trucks is pretty so so.
 
Or, simply shift to park?

Lets see, little tiny drums, 6K lb station wagon, not going to make for great braking performance!
The e brake drum diameter and surface area of the 80 is actually quite large. Fzj80 parking shoes are wider and larger radiused than the GM 1 ton disc brake drum-in-hats I have now. And larger than the f350 super duty shoes I just pulled off a 2004. Etc.

So bollocks. I think the mechanical strength of the hand lever just pales in comparison to a foot pedal. Especially if you arent doing enough back and bicep workouts.
 
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It MIGHT be a Parking brake, but it is not even close to being an Emergency brake!!
 
Mine seems to hold ok after right after adjustment but a few months later no so much. I bet I could really tighten it down to improve the hold but then the shoes would drag.
 
I did see the fsm procedure for bedding the brake shoes, going to try that tomm. Once the bedding takes place is it ok to just take up the slack that is created by readjusting the bell cranks and then the cable tension? I really don't want to remove the calipers, rotors etc.

You only need to remove the wheel, put the wheel nuts back on adding packing where needed.

You can use the hole in the drum to adjust the star wheel, once you know where it is it is just a couple of clicks in the right direction to bring the shoes to the drum, this should be done before moving to the bell cranks and cable.

Regards

Dave
 
I had a driveline disc brake on a tacoma that a shop fabbed up for me.

very similar to this:
Toyota Mini Truck Transfer-case E-Brake

They did a great job at making it and boy did it hold the truck in place. There were some drawbacks though...like if your driveshaft or axle shaft is busted it doesn't work so good.

I don't think one could be made for a truck as heavy as the cruiser though.
 
I had a driveline disc brake on a tacoma that a shop fabbed up for me.

very similar to this:
Toyota Mini Truck Transfer-case E-Brake

They did a great job at making it and boy did it hold the truck in place. There were some drawbacks though...like if your driveshaft or axle shaft is busted it doesn't work so good.

I don't think one could be made for a truck as heavy as the cruiser though.
They're used all the time on heavy equipment. You have a much greater lever than you do at the wheel so it's actually more practical for a cruiser. Land Rover has been doing this for a while, too, folks.
 
I don't think one could be made for a truck as heavy as the cruiser though.

Yes it can. Some semi trucks frequently have these.
 
At Cruise Moab, Rising Sun made us test the parking brake. Engage brake, shift to drive, if the truck moves you fail. It look a while but I was able to adjust mine enough to pass the test.
 
They're used all the time on heavy equipment. You have a much greater lever than you do at the wheel so it's actually more practical for a cruiser. Land Rover has been doing this for a while, too, folks.

Would I have to have another one custom made, or is there a vendor? because it was spendy in 1998 to have one made. It was a little shop outside of the base that made them.
 
Would I have to have another one custom made, or is there a vendor? because it was spendy in 1998 to have one made. It was a little shop outside of the base that made them.
There's no off-the-shelf solution AFAIK. I wouldn't want one anyway
 
lol, thx, that makes me feel better. Just trying to guage how well it should hold. My old FJ40 ebrake held really well even on steep hills after I rebuilt it.
That's partly because it holds on the xmsn output shaft and not the wheels. Toyota gave up on this (far superior) design to reduce the cost of goods, when they started wholesale parts sharing across different platforms.
 
Also, a driveline brake will allow a vehicle like the LC to slide on slick surfaces because it does not lock the wheels, as @Malleus stated.

An open differential will still allow one wheel to spin forward and the other will turn backward. So, if one wheel is parked on snow/ice and he other is on dirt, it will still slide with the driveline brake fully applied.

It will work better if you have an engaged locker in the differential (not a limited slip.)

Also, the front axle will not lock on the ones with a viscous coupling if the driveline brake is on the rear DS.

Just not a good option for these.
 
Just readjusted mine. Took more than an hour cuz I'm slow and only my second time in. Had to tighten the star wheel up twice (that is: two removals of rear wheels). About 4+ turns up from where I left them at what I thought was per FSM.

Now they hold the car until about 1100 RPMs in drive. Solid at 1000 RPM. Original shoes; newer NAPA rotors.
 
I found that adjusting the nut on the line tension at the handle in the car helped quite a bit for us -- after doing all the other adjustments. Pull the leather boot up and there is a double nut there to adjust. 8mm nut if I recall.
 
You only need to remove the wheel, put the wheel nuts back on adding packing where needed.

You can use the hole in the drum to adjust the star wheel, once you know where it is it is just a couple of clicks in the right direction to bring the shoes to the drum, this should be done before moving to the bell cranks and cable.

Regards

Dave

yeah but the problem is I did not leave the hole in the right place, lol......
 
I found that adjusting the nut on the line tension at the handle in the car helped quite a bit for us -- after doing all the other adjustments. Pull the leather boot up and there is a double nut there to adjust. 8mm nut if I recall.

yup, 10mm, I am too familiar with it at this time....
 
yeah but the problem is I did not leave the hole in the right place, lol......

Even if disc is put on wrong, IIRC there is enough room to get to the star wheel?

Failing that then yep callipers off, but in reality the work of jacking up and removing the wheel leaves just a couple of bolts, go for it.

Regards

Dave
 

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