Ebrake just ok

[1973Guppie]

Wondering how others ebrakes perform in general. I have rebuilt my rear brakes, new rear pads, new rear ebrake shoes, existing brake rotors/drums. I followed the adjustment to a T from the fsm. I found it impossible to move the little starwheel from the small hole in the drum so I pushed the drum on when it was fairly tight and hit it with a hammer to seat it. Adjusted the cranks, then the cable till it was tight. I get 7-9 clicks and it will hold the truck on a hill in neutral only if I really crank on the handle all the way. I am wondering if I would benefit from a new ebrake cable. The one I have is original and I know they do stretch. Anyone out there install a new ebrake cable and notice a difference? I don't think I am going to get it to work any better than it is now and am curious how well other people's ebrakes work in neutral on a steep pitch off road, will it hold your car? or is the system only supposed to work OK? What can be expected as far as holding power from a properly working ebrake system?

 

[Dork]

After replacing shoes, cleaning and lubricating everything, adjusting as much as possible, making sure it all works right, my ebrake doesn't hold a single damn thing.

 

[1973Guppie]

After replacing shoes, cleaning and lubricating everything, adjusting as much as possible, making sure it all works right, my ebrake doesn't hold a single damn thing.

lol, thx, that makes me feel better. Just trying to guage how well it should hold. My old FJ40 ebrake held really well even on steep hills after I rebuilt it.

 

[rolliges]

I'd like to hear for the experts on this too.

In the meantime it seems like a few more turns of the star dial should hold you "in the middle of the pull" as long as the mechanics are sound.

I did the eight turns (or so I think) and get nothing. Plan to address tomorrow.

 

[chap79]

But new star adjusters. I just adjusted mine again last weekend, only get about 4 clicks and it holds just fine. I adjust the star to where the shoes just start to drag, then back off a hair. Just like old drum brakes.

 

[flintknapper]

The E-brake's on the 80 series are nothing to write home to Mom about.

Got to crank that lever up pretty good to get them to hold.

When I installed my new brake shoes and hub/rotors, I drove the vehicle around slowly and while holding the button down on the E-Brake lever, pulled it up until the vehicle came to a stop. After 8-10 cycles of that...they seemed to 'grab/hold' a little better. A bit like 'bedding' in new brake pads....I guess.

 

[ewillis]

Mine won't hold a mild/moderate incline in N, but when I forget to disengage it and start to drive, I can feel it doing its job...I don't get it.

 

[1973Guppie]

well mine will hold on a moderate incline once I crank it back, probably 9/10 clicks, I guess that is the best I can hope for....

 

[LC4LIFE]

Mine downright sucks....I am sure I can get it better, adjusting the star wheel and all. I have just heard from so many others that the e-brake is poor making my motivation to get dirty and spend time to only end up with mediocre performance lacking.

 

[inkpot]

Ill be if someone searched, they would find lots of discussion of the ebrake's poor performance. A few of us have had fairly good results, but most are not impressed.

 

[Red Merle]

This is making me less interested in trying to even get mine functioning at all.

Might just throw a wheel chock in the back instead.

 

[Tools R Us]

This is making me less interested in trying to even get mine functioning at all.

Might just throw a wheel chock in the back instead.

Or, simply shift to park?

Lets see, little tiny drums, 6K lb station wagon, not going to make for great braking performance!

 

[-Spike-]

Have you tried deglazing or resurfacing the drum?

The cable adjustment makes up for any stretch you might have.

Those tiny drums won't perform well in 60-0 tests, but they should be able to hold a parked truck if everything's up to spec.

 

[Red Merle]

Or, simply shift to park?

Lets see, little tiny drums, 6K lb station wagon, not going to make for great braking performance!

Honestly, I think park has been the e-brake on this thing for 20 years. Given that the PO didn't even seem to know the truck had a low range when I asked him why the transfer case shifter was stuck when I bought it and that it generally lead a very easy life.

That does seem to work just fine, but I had a crazy thing happen once that involved a Ford 15 passenger Van letting loose in park and wiping out like 30 kevlar canoes, my boss's mini van and a good size chunk of the brick house it came to rest against. I guess I don't need to see that again

It would be nice to have it functioning as back up on a steep hill, but the fact that it was seized with rust until a few weeks ago and it doesn't currently function at all is now making fixing it a very low priority. On to the AC system!

 

[madisonr34]

Mine was holding real good. Pulled the hand brake the other day and heard a loud pop.... now the E brake Will barely hold. Cable is not snapped. Going to try to fix it tomorrow.

 

[1973Guppie]

Or, simply shift to park?

Lets see, little tiny drums, 6K lb station wagon, not going to make for great braking performance!

was thinking the same thing as you, especially with the bumpers, winch, armor, larger tires, we are asking the ebrake to hold something on a hill it was not designed for. I figured such but wanted to see the experience of others. I think I probably have got it the best it is going to work at this point.

 

[gummycarbs]

My 94 holds reasonably well on hills. I always try to place the vehicle weight on the parking brake rather than the parking pawl. Shift to neutral, parking brake on, let off foot brake, let the vehicle settle, then shift to park.

The only time it's moved is when I didn't pull up with sufficient force.

The PO said he spent $2k on brakes shortly before I bought it. Maybe you need $2k parking brake shoes...

 

[Dave 2000]

Unfortunately the handbrake is known for not being particularly good. the dog bones between the shoes can be updated, the edge where the shoes rest can wear. The modified dog bone allows for better adjustment at rest, and hence better performance in use.

It was mentioned about applying the brake during driving, IIRC someone mentioned this is actually in the FSM. I do exactly that and when cooled down and then wind on the star a little.

Something else, put the wheel nuts on before adjusting, use some washers as the dome heads bottom out, the drum assembly will be held in the correct position for adjustment.

Check the pivot on the axle is free to move.

The stock setup WILL hold but adjusting and getting it perfect is time consuming.

Regards

Dave

 

[1973Guppie]

Unfortunately the handbrake is known for not being particularly good. the dog bones between the shoes can be updated, the edge where the shoes rest can wear. The modified dog bone allows for better adjustment at rest, and hence better performance in use.

It was mentioned about applying the brake during driving, IIRC someone mentioned this is actually in the FSM. I do exactly that and when cooled down and then wind on the star a little.

Something else, put the wheel nuts on before adjusting, use some washers as the dome heads bottom out, the drum assembly will be held in the correct position for adjustment.

Check the pivot on the axle is free to move.

The stock setup WILL hold but adjusting and getting it petfect is time consuming.

Regards

Dave

I did see the fsm procedure for bedding the brake shoes, going to try that tomm. Once the bedding takes place is it ok to just take up the slack that is created by readjusting the bell cranks and then the cable tension? I really don't want to remove the calipers, rotors etc.

 

[mudgudgeon]

After replacing shoes, cleaning and lubricating everything, adjusting as much as possible, making sure it all works right, my ebrake doesn't hold a single damn thing.

Yer, that's stock standard.

Get it spot on, 1st trip in the dirt and it's useless again.

I used to just park with the front wheel turned into the kerb, and trans in 1st, T-case in low if needed. Not much help for an auto trans though.
My 105 is not a lot better.