Does re-gearing and a part-time kit make sense? (1 Viewer)

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tampacruiser95

Upgrades are coming.
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I DD my 80, with about a 10 mile commute one way. I am about to move to PA, so snow and winter weather is likely.

I have a rear Aussie locker and have been planning to put one in the front. But to do that I will need a part time kit also. I've been wanting to re-gear for a while too, 4.88 is the plan.

So does my plan make sense? Will I lose the benefits of re-gearing if I put the part time kit in?
 
Save the cash from the re-gear, locking hubs, front auto locker, and PT kit and put it toward a Harrop/Eaton E-locker for the front. Harrop+Aussie=UNSTOPPABLE!
 
Snow is the prime reason you want to maintain the AWD capability.

How big of tire size do you plan on running for those 4.88 gears you are about to swap in?
 
Spend the money instead for getting your vehicle completely and professionally rust-proofed before you take it up to PA. You will be amazed at how fast rust will start to appear on an older vehicle that has spent it's life in the South after it moves into the salt/rust belt.
 
Consider just putting in Marlin Crawler 3 to 1 Tcase gears in rather than pumpkin gears. I'm running 37s &4:10 gears with the Tcase gears. Selectable lockers is the best way to go... stay open for snow & ice roads.
 
I agree with Scotty, I don't think you'll like 2wd with the lunch box locker. In fact I'd stay away from lunch box lockers part time or no part time if you're going to DD in snowy weather.
 
Why do you feel the need to regear?
Also I would drive something with an aussie locker in the front before I did it.
I am re-gearing because I have 33s now but will likely go 35s. Even if I don't, 4.88 and 33s is a pretty good combination from everything I have read. Does a front Aussie locker give these rigs poor road manners?
 
No. Doesn't make sense to me. You lose your all time 4 wheel drive and end up with just a rear auto locker which is not well tempered in the snow and ice.
I think you are right, the more I think about this, the less I want to give up full time 4WD.
 
Snow is the prime reason you want to maintain the AWD capability.

How big of tire size do you plan on running for those 4.88 gears you are about to swap in?
I have 33s now but will probably go 35s here pretty soon.
 
I agree with Scotty, I don't think you'll like 2wd with the lunch box locker. In fact I'd stay away from lunch box lockers part time or no part time if you're going to DD in snowy weather.
Are the Aussie lockers bad in snowy weather? You are the 3rd person to hint at that.
 
Spend the money instead for getting your vehicle completely and professionally rust-proofed before you take it up to PA. You will be amazed at how fast rust will start to appear on an older vehicle that has spent it's life in the South after it moves into the salt/rust belt.
Rust proofing is in the plans too. I was considering selling and getting a GX. But since I am keeping the 80 I am trying to make it last and make it as capable as I can under budget.
 
Save the cash from the re-gear, locking hubs, front auto locker, and PT kit and put it toward a Harrop/Eaton E-locker for the front. Harrop+Aussie=UNSTOPPABLE!
Your build is the one that turned me onto that combination, but it's so damn expensive. Most of the feedback leads me to believe I wouldn't like a front Aussie locker. The Harrop will run a $1K more than the Aussie and part time kit. That is the calculus I am trying to make. Is the 1000 worth it?
 
Are the Aussie lockers bad in snowy weather? You are the 3rd person to hint at that.

Its not just aussie lockers but any autolocker will be difficult/dangerous to manouver in slick conditions. With both tires spinning it is more likely to push the rear end out wide in a turn
 
Its not just aussie lockers but any autolocker will be difficult/dangerous to manouver in slick conditions. With both tires spinning it is more likely to push the rear end out wide in a turn
Ahh, lightbulb moment for me. That makes sense. So maybe just re-gear and get an E-locker then.
 
Are we talking about offroading in PA snow, or driving on the street? That's an important designation.

I live in PA - Aside from good snow tires (not mud tires), having non locked awd is the best possible solution for street driving. As stated before, a locked axle likes to kick around in slippery conditions, while an unlocked axle allows the non driven wheel to act as an anchor to keep you moving in your pointed direction.

A regear, while not necessary with your motor will be useful to you as PA is very hilly and your rig will suffer with a larger tire size and stock gearing.

As for offroad, I have a military truck with a locker in the rear, and a limited slip up front - that truck will make it through deeper snow than my 80.. but it's road manners suffer.

It's Pennsylvania, not Siberia. Lets face it, if there's 18" of snow in the street are you going to risk going anywhere anyway?

For reference - my snow vehicles are my M1008 military truck, my 80, and my 100 series. My 100 is bone stock (except tire size), and it's my most capable road going snow vehicle.
 
Also from PA. Running a 37" tire. With stock gearing and this tire size, you are going to have to be trying in order to get the rear end to kick out in the snow with AWD. I like to drive in the snow, so I always take a drive when the roads get a good covering. 8-10" or so on the roads, I find locking it up front, center and rear makes for the most predictable combination. I know, that is counter to what everyone says, but it works. The problem with the auto lockers is they unlock, and if you aren't expecting it, the truck is suddenly handling differently.
 
I would put the first money into removing the Aussie and installing a real selectable locker like Harrop or ARB. You won't want what you have in the snow and ice.

Why not stay with 33s and stock gearing? It's perfectly good for 99% of what you will ever do, especially living back east. It's better for you pocketbook and mental health. Keep the truck as low as you can, and you'll have about the best winter truck it is possible to have.

If you find yourself wheeling out west a bit, then the transfer case gearing kit is really helpful. I'd spend the second money there.
 
IMO, on the east coast, for daily driving, I would NOT want 33's and 4.88's. I have 4.88's with 35's and it's over geared. It's peppy on the low end, but highway speeds it's screaming. Would be worse with 33's. I've been looking at 37's to run with 4.88's. Offroad, 4.88s and 35s are a great combo.
 

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