Distributor and Vacuum (1 Viewer)

[AZLandCrusher]

Hey All,

I am trying to get my FJ60 air tight (Proven to be a headache and a half) and think I have finally done it. I hooked up my smoke tester and all seals seem to be doing their jobs. But, when I crank over the engine and get it up to temp, I am only seeing 14 inHG on the intake manifold and then stalling out if I adjust my idle speed adjustment screw below 1000RPM. It seems messing with my timing advance will increase my Vacuum at the intake but I have maxed out my adjustment (fully advanced) in its current position.

My question is, will the cruiser still run at high RPM even if it is off a tooth? I am running out of ideas of where my supposed vacuum leak might be coming from and the only thing that helps is advancing the timing. Any help is appreciated!

 

[Seth S]

Let’s start:
1 valves adjusted
2 good properly gapped plugs
3 good cap
4 good rotor
5 good wires
6 good fuel filter
7 good air filter
8 base timing set to 7 degrees
9 good carb gaskets
10 carb setup using lean drop?

 

[AZLandCrusher]

1 valves adjusted

Recently adjusted EX: .014 IN:.008​

2 good properly gapped plugs

Plugs set to .034​

3 good cap

New Cap​

4 good rotor

New Rotor​

5 good wires

Wires have all been checked​

6 good fuel filter

New Fuel Filter​

7 good air filter

No air filter installed at the moment​

8 base timing set to 7 degrees

I can not get the motor to run at 650RPM to adjust to 7 degrees. Right now I am adjusting based on vacuum​

9 good carb gaskets

All gaskets are air tight, checked with my smoke tester​

10 carb setup using lean drop?

Not familiar with this setup​

It might be good to say that this engine has recently been rebuilt and I am trying to get it running properly for the first time. This is why I am concerned about being off a tooth.

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[NeverGiveUpYota]

So a vac gauge is reading 14... is the needle steady or does it bounce around when you bring up the RPMs? 14 is horribly low. Have you sprayed carb spray around the manifold to head mating surface?

 

[Seth S]

This:

 

[AZLandCrusher]

the vacuum gauge reads 14 at 1000RPM if I bring it any lower the gauge goes to 10 and the engine cuts out

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Then you may have a very large vacuum leak. 14 is too low even for someone way up at elevation. Here inCT I can pull 21/22. Some in Colorado I believe, can get 18.

 

[AZLandCrusher]

do you think I could be off a tooth?

 

[Seth S]

Have you had the engine apart or the distributor out? The distributor off a tooth shouldn’t cause a vacuum problem but if you had the timing gears off and didn’t line up the cam gear properly maybe you could have a problem.

 

[AZLandCrusher]

I didn’t rebuild the engine myself but I had a guy tear it apart bore it out and rebuild it for my. I attached all the auxiliary components like the distributor. Is there a easy check to check the cam gear without tearing into the engine again?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Don’t jump ahead. Check the mating surfaces w/ carb spray. IF the RPMs rise and steady out and the gauge reading grows strong then flutters down again then you’ve found your problem.

 

[BlackCat]

7 degrees of timing is 7 degrees of timing, regardless of how the distributor is installed. Also, if it was off a tooth, you wouldn’t be able to get it to 7, so I’d say forget about the distributor being off and move on to something else.

 

[Seth S]

there have been a lot of similar posts lately and several of them have found the carb base plate and gasket to be bad after having searched all other areas.

 

[4Cruisers]

Could it be a vacuum leak associated with the brake booster/hose?

 

[AZLandCrusher]

I am going to start spraying carb cleaner, I will let you know how it goes. And yes I have disconnected all vacuum accessories to try to narrow down the problem.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Could it be a vacuum leak associated with the brake booster/hose?

Seems he can’t even get it running well enough to drive it.