Dissent offroad 80 series modular bumper interest

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Personally was hoping not to cut the cross member, but wouldnt be the end of the world.
I'm hoping to figure out a way to mount a two bike tray rack off a swingout as well, as i've seen ben do on some other 100 bumpers.
Wonder if that'd work with a storage box setup and a full size spare... hmm.
@Wompom ... I’m running a 37” spare and 3 Jerry cans on my bumper. It’s pretty darn wide and blocks the tail lights. You might run into the same situation with the bike rack? Ben’s solution is to add LED tail lights into the bumper. Keeps thing safe and legal.

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@Wompom ... I’m running a 37” spare and 3 Jerry cans on my bumper. It’s pretty darn wide and blocks the tail lights. You might run into the same situation with the bike rack? Ben’s solution is to add LED tail lights into the bumper. Keeps thing safe and legal.

View attachment 2544986

Good to know. That receiver to the left of the jerry can holder is what i'm after.
 
@Wompom ... I’m running a 37” spare and 3 Jerry cans on my bumper. It’s pretty darn wide and blocks the tail lights. You might run into the same situation with the bike rack? Ben’s solution is to add LED tail lights into the bumper. Keeps thing safe and legal.

View attachment 2544986

Hey All. Seen you guys looking at my rear there!! :p I will say, the tail lights are worth the effort if it can be done smoothly. I know it took ben a couple of iterations to get those lights in there to his liking. All in all I think they're great!! Good luck, looking forward to what the Dissent Team does with this 80!
 
Good to know. That receiver to the left of the jerry can holder is what i'm after.
Same set up that I am looking for also. It looks like a milk crate or similar could set in the jerry can holder also? Would be nice place to stash wet clothes from mountain biking or whatever.
 
Same set up that I am looking for also. It looks like a milk crate or similar could set in the jerry can holder also? Would be nice place to stash wet clothes from mountain biking or whatever.
I wondered if you find that receiver useful for a bike rack. Hope that works out for you.
 
Hey All. Seen you guys looking at my rear there!! :p I will say, the tail lights are worth the effort if it can be done smoothly. I know it took ben a couple of iterations to get those lights in there to his liking. All in all I think they're great!! Good luck, looking forward to what the Dissent Team does with this 80!
@civil offroad ... thanks for chiming in. Your bummer and truck looks nice. Ben sent that picture as an example for what to expect with the bumper mounted tail lights. Can you please give us your impression of the bumper in general and how it has held up over time?
 
@civil offroad ... thanks for chiming in. Your bummer and truck looks nice. Ben sent that picture as an example for what to expect with the bumper mounted tail lights. Can you please give us your impression of the bumper in general and how it has held up over time?

@Road Apple Well, I get this question all the time. For some reason people always lean toward the "All Steel" products out there and I was one of them. Until I met the Dissent Offroad Team.

So my impressions are very much like other Dissent customers. I just flat out love it! I was dead set on two other brands but, when @benc had a "No Cut Rear" I was following the development. I've had the set up for about 2 years now. I have gone up some trails, including some washboards and heavily rocky trails, and have been really impressed with the entire build. I always thought that since it was a Hybrid (Alum with Steel reinforcing) that there would be some inherent issues. But, I will say that I have had no issues to date. Everyone who knows the LC platform ooggles over the rig. The lines are clean and the workmanship is just outstanding! I hope that helps. You wont be disappointed! Take Care!
 
I have the all steel Dissent rear on my 100 series and absolutely love it. I did have an issue with the combo lights hitting the capture nut for the swing outs but a quick call to Dissent and Ben sent me a custom cut down nut to remedy the clearance problems. I believe he has since remedied the issue on future bumpers. The latch mechanism and the weld quality is what really sets his bumper apart IMO. Cannot wait until he releases them for the 80 series!
 
With my concern for departure angle in mind, Ben is considering a hybrid design that may require partially cutting the cross member. I don’t want to completely cut the cross member if possible, but don’t want a receiver dragging on rocks and ledges. He won’t know until he gets in there since this is the first 80. The receiver will have to stick out far enough to install the pin or the pin could be installed under the bumper, which would be a pain in the a**, but provide better ground clearance.

What do you think?
@jwbc84 , @SteelHunterFJ80 , @Wompom , @clx16 , @Joe Link , @Dissent , @wakesetter

Hopefully will have updates in a couple weeks.

I think I'm on the same page also. With not towing regularly the pain of reaching under the bumper to set the pin would be a very minor offset to the benefits of having the hitch set up higher.
As for cutting the cross member I might cry but again the trade off is worth it. To level my trailer I have to use a 6" receiver hitch flipped up. I'm hoping that between a 2" lift (currently stock) and maximizing hitch height on a bumper I can run a straight to the trailer.

Personally was hoping not to cut the cross member, but wouldnt be the end of the world.
I'm hoping to figure out a way to mount a two bike tray rack off a swingout as well, as i've seen ben do on some other 100 bumpers.
Wonder if that'd work with a storage box setup and a full size spare... hmm.

I don’t want to cut the cross member either. Since I’ll be wheeling rocky trails in the Sierra’s, departure angle takes precedence though. With 4x4Labs in the general area and with great departure angle, Ben may need to offer good departure angle as well in the production model.

The bike tray should be an easy add on. All his accessories bolt on and change quickly.
A hybrid design sounds like a good compromise and I don't mind having to take out the pin if its under the bumper. I do think that it would be plenty strong enough if we do have to cut the crossmember, after all look at 4x4 labs bumper and its done just fine. Like others the departure angle is key and clearance is important along with the ability to safely tow. Like Wompom and a few others, I am looking to have an easy way to mount mountain bikes and tow my white water raft. With those items, I am usually not taking out the pin over and over so I don't mind a more difficult access location.
 
That's what i am getting. I've seen how strong aluminum can be and i like the weight reduction.
I would like this option as well too. My rig is going to set up more for expo/overlanding than a dedicated wheeler. Is there aluminum steel option for the front bumper or is best to go all steel?
 
A hybrid design sounds like a good compromise and I don't mind having to take out the pin if its under the bumper. I do think that it would be plenty strong enough if we do have to cut the crossmember, after all look at 4x4 labs bumper and its done just fine. Like others the departure angle is key and clearance is important along with the ability to safely tow. Like Wompom and a few others, I am looking to have an easy way to mount mountain bikes and tow my white water raft. With those items, I am usually not taking out the pin over and over so I don't mind a more difficult access location.

agreed, but in all honesty still don't want to cut my crossmember. Part of my strong interest in this was that it might not require it. If i'm cutting my crossmember i'd buy a 4x4 or something cheaper, or go to a DVS where i don't have to cut. These just had the best potential look/features.
 
I would like this option as well too. My rig is going to set up more for expo/overlanding than a dedicated wheeler. Is there aluminum steel option for the front bumper or is best to go all steel?
I ordered my front hybrid. If something bends which i doubt that part can be remade and sent to bolt on.
 
I would like this option as well too. My rig is going to set up more for expo/overlanding than a dedicated wheeler. Is there aluminum steel option for the front bumper or is best to go all steel?
There is an aluminum option. I’m not sure if it’s a hybrid or not. Ben said the weight difference between steel and aluminum is fairly small. I plan to be in the rocks a lot, so I went with steel for durability. The aluminum he uses is thick and beefy though. I also prefer to avoid using dissimilar metals to avoid electrolysis and future corrosion issues. Steel is easily repaired and painted.
 
+1 for a front bumper. I really like that this one offers both good approach angles and animal protection.

I was cross shopping the ARB and Ironman bumpers but I may hold off on those if these are slated to go into production.
 
There is an aluminum option. I’m not sure if it’s a hybrid or not. Ben said the weight difference between steel and aluminum is fairly small. I plan to be in the rocks a lot, so I went with steel for durability. The aluminum he uses is thick and beefy though. I also prefer to avoid using dissimilar metals to avoid electrolysis and future corrosion issues. Steel is easily repaired and painted.
Hmm if its pretty small then I too will go for the all steel construction. Part of the reason I want to upgrade the bumpers is as a preventative measures from all the other idiot drivers we have out there. It would be a travesty if I finally get my dream truck put together and some numb nuts rear ends me totalling out my rig.

I am in for a front and rear bumper. I would like to order one wrap around bar and one stinger set up though....I want the wrap around went I go wheeling and a stinger for just all round driving. Looking at those bars do you or Ben feel like a bolt in bar is strong enough to withstand impact? And is there enough room to put a light bar under the shortest stinger?
 
The following is a quote from Ben "we are looking at about 90-95 in steel and 50lbs in aluminum." we were talking about the front bumper. i we haven't talked about rear yet.
 
The following is a quote from Ben "we are looking at about 90-95 in steel and 50lbs in aluminum." we were talking about the front bumper. i we haven't talked about rear yet.
Thanks that helps, sounds like all in all I would be only saving around 100 lbs front and rear. A difference yes, but for eloctroylsis and corrosion I am not sure if its worth it. I do know that I probably won't have a drawer system installed so there is some weight savings.
 
Having lived up in the great rusty north i get your concern, but the metals will be isolated by powder coating in my case. I now live in the south also so even less of a concern since there are lots of parts on my vehicle that are not matching metals. My vehicle is still very peppy with sliders and a @kelly saad Grille, I want to minimize the weight the best I can.
 
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