Build Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap

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I strongly suggest researching, and installing, compound turbos with that much fuel. You will burn the fuel much cleaner (read: less black smoke out the tailpipe), produce more power with a flatter powerband and likely have the same, if not a little better, mileage.

Looking forward to the build :D
 
I will do a little research...definitely don't want to be blowing black smoke...do you think compounds would fit in there without too much trouble?
 
Dirty Koala said:
do you think compounds would fit in there without too much trouble?
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Honestly I've never personally seen a 6BT in an 80, so I don't know how much room you have. @boots4 has compound turbos in his 60 with a 4BT, but we're not exactly talking apples to apples there.

Can it be done? Yes, absolutely. Will it be much trouble? Probably, yes. Will it be worth the time and investment? I think so.
 
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OGBeno said:
Isn't this the whole point of putting a Cummins in your Toyota Land Cruiser? So you can blow smoke at stop lights and your truck nutz can shake?

:lol:
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First I would need to swap out my 16" Toyota wheels for some 22" chrome rims and powdercoat all my suspension to match my interior :)
 
OGBeno said:
Isn't this the whole point of putting a Cummins in your Toyota Land Cruiser? So you can blow smoke at stop lights and your truck nutz can shake?

:lol:
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The redneck term is "rollin' coal". I try to stay as far away from those guys as I can but its inevitable sometimes when you have to stop next to one.
 
So yes, the objective is to not roll any coal, no truck nutz, no rimz or bling...just gobs of good clean reliable usable power.
 
Honestly I think compounds would be too much. I think you can set up a single turbo that will do what you want and tuning can keep you from blacking out intersections. You are already going to have a crazy amount of power to play with. I'm not into smoking out intersections either but a little puff on take off is no problem.

I would research your larger bowl pistons to see what spray angle they are so you can match your injectors. Having the burn inside the bowl will help keep it clean too. Man, this thing is going to be a rocket!
 
boots4 said:
Honestly I think compounds would be too much. I think you can set up a single turbo that will do what you want and tuning can keep you from blacking out intersections. You are already going to have a crazy amount of power to play with. I'm not into smoking out intersections either but a little puff on take off is no problem.

I would research your larger bowl pistons to see what spray angle they are so you can match your injectors. Having the burn inside the bowl will help keep it clean too. Man, this thing is going to be a rocket!
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I just got off the phone with Mumau Diesel in PA, who have always been a pleasure to work with. Jeff there said the same thing, keeping the stock turbo or replacing with the he351cw in conjunction with the pistons we chose, and the extruded nozzles will be a very clean running setup. The estimate is about 425-450 HP and about 850-900 ft/lbs of torque if you really get into it. I am not going to get a new fuel plate, I am just going to slide the stock fuel plate forward and adjust the pump slightly.
 
bigfj62 said:
That torque scares me a little. If you have the money for tons I say go for it. Curious to see how things hold up.
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Yes that torque is going to be a bit of a monster, I expect I will need to put in wontons.
 
Dirty Koala said:
Yes that torque is going to be a bit of a monster, I expect I will need to put in wontons.
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I like that phrase "wontons" :lol:


I stand corrected on the compound thing. I need to read up more on performance 6BTs.
 
So, this would be a bit of a pricey way to throw a wontons under the rear...but it's an option.

Ruffstuff 14bolt housing with passenger side drop
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SOLID14.html

14 bolt 3rd member from Torq Motorsports
http://www.torqaxle.com/Torq-14-center-section_p_34.html

SpynTech 6 on 5.5 hub kit, so I could use the toyota wheels
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SA6018-6.html

I would need to get 35 spline axles cut to length...all adds up to $$$$, but it's an option.
 
Holy crap. I could buy 4 junkyard 14 bolt axles for that much.
 
Yes, its a pricey option....but so is this whole obsession. I really want to see how well the stock axle holds up before I start swapping axles...who knows, maybe we will all be surprised.
 
You're at an advantage that you're running ARBs and not the factory e-lockers. If you're worried about anything with the stock rear, I'd look to upgrading the hub studs first. Other than that, we'll be watching to see what blows up first :D

I wonder if the split case can hold that much torque :hhmm:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
You're at an advantage that you're running ARBs and not the factory e-lockers. If you're worried about anything with the stock rear, I'd look to upgrading the hub studs first. Other than that, we'll be watching to see what blows up first :D

I wonder if the split case can hold that much torque :hmm:
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I think the xfer case is going to be up to the task, the internals of that case appear to be more robust than the NP241DLD or NP241DHD that came behind the 47Re (Auto) and NV4500 respectively...plus it's gear driven like the NP205.

As far as hub studs go...is there a recommended upgrade for this...haven't stumbled across it yet.
 
Dirty Koala said:
I think the xfer case is going to be up to the task, the internals of that case appear to be more robust than the NP241DLD or NP241DHD that came behind the 47Re (Auto) and NV4500 respectively...plus it's gear driven like the NP205.

As far as hub studs go...is there a recommended upgrade for this...haven't stumbled across it yet.
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Correction above, not split case, but HF2A (part-time).

Stock is 8mm studs. There are a bunch of ways to upgrade, one being more dowel pins, another being ARP studs and another being 10mm studs. Search "FF stud upgrade" or something along those lines in either the hardcore section or the 60 series section.
 
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