Build Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap

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:bounce:

So you're going to design a custom adapter from the NV4500 to the HF2AV? Are you going to stick with full-time 4WD or no?
 
:bounce:

So you're going to design a custom adapter from the NV4500 to the HF2AV? Are you going to stick with full-time 4WD or no?

I have already part timed my HF2AV (now minus the V), but yes I am going to adapt the case to the NV4500. The plan is to get a new 2WD NV4500 mainshaft (which are longer than the 4wd mainshafts). Cut that new mainshaft down and re-spline it to mate with the HF2A case. The adapter plate will be 3/4" thick. This will eliminate the need for adapter shafts between trans output and xfer case input. I also like that I get to keep my HF2A that I have already gone through and replaced all the seals and part-timed.
 
I have already part timed my HF2AV (now minus the V), but yes I am going to adapt the case to the NV4500. The plan is to get a new 2WD NV4500 mainshaft (which are longer than the 4wd mainshafts). Cut that new mainshaft down and re-spline it to mate with the HF2A case. The adapter plate will be 3/4" thick. This will eliminate the need for adapter shafts between trans output and xfer case input. I also like that I get to keep my HF2A that I have already gone through and replaced all the seals and part-timed.

Please document this process well. It would help a bunch of people considering 6BT swaps in their 80s.

Here's a quick, and possibly dumb, question. Can you remove the HF2A(V) from the transmission without disassembling the case? I ask because your comment about the seals. I would assume that if you have to disassemble the case to remove it from the transmission that it's a moot point.
 
Please document this process well. It would help a bunch of people considering 6BT swaps in their 80s.

Here's a quick, and possibly dumb, question. Can you remove the HF2A(V) from the transmission without disassembling the case? I ask because your comment about the seals. I would assume that if you have to disassemble the case to remove it from the transmission that it's a moot point.
Yes I plan to document my swap well. I will most likely have a separate thread for the conversion and then re-post back in here.

Yes you can remove the HF2A(V) case from the transmission without dismantling the case. I decided to replace all the seals while I had the case open to install the part time spool. That case is a heavy SOB...didnt want to pull it out any more times than I had to.
 
Thank you sir :D

I look forward to meeting you this summer, should you attend CMCC.
 
Thank you sir :D

I look forward to meeting you this summer, should you attend CMCC.

I'll be at CMCC again this year...maybe you will want to sell me your trailer by then ;) Hopefully I have my swap all buttoned up before that event.
 
I'll be at CMCC again this year...maybe you will want to sell me your trailer by then ;) Hopefully I have my swap all buttoned up before that event.

!!!! Morgan?! I don't know why but it takes me a while to put 2 and 2 together, mapping a real person to a mud handle.

Well I'll make it a point to seek you out this year :cheers:
 
!!!! Morgan?! I don't know why but it takes me a while to put 2 and 2 together, mapping a real person to a mud handle.

Well I'll make it a point to seek you out this year :cheers:

Yep that's me :) See you at CMCC John.
 
Is Dustin assisting you with the adapter plate or are you having it machined locally?

Dustin is going to machine this adapter up.

One other modification to the Auto kit, is how to pick up the tach signal. The auto pick up the tach signal from the torque converter, since I am going with an NV4500 that won't work. So I will need to pick up from the crank instead. The plan is to extend the wiring harness to reach the harmonic balancer.

The tach ferrous sensor is looking for 3 pulses per revolution, the stock 12V 6BT harmonic balancer has two notches...so that won't work. The plan is to get a new harmonic balancer for an ISB 24V which does not have any notches cut into it (the ISB tach pickup works off the camshaft), and then machine in 3 equally spaces notches to the new HB.
 
Yes, since you don't need the bellhousing, compushift or torque converter restalled the price is significantly less Than the full auto kit. However, after adding the 24V harmonic balancer and the xfer case adapter back in, it is virtually a wash price wise with the auto kit.
 
Why don't you just run an aftermarket tach??
I want all my guages to be integrated cleanly. The new machine HB is a clean way to accomplish this.
 
I suppose I am going to run into the same issue with a 4500 split setup. Do you know what Mr. Cimarron did for his tach setup?? Looks like a HB is about $100 off of feebay, and I suppose machining would about the same. Seems like a good route to me to stick with the stock tach. I am just looking at costs from every angle. I can't have this swap turn into me taking out a second mortgage on my house.
 
I suppose I am going to run into the same issue with a 4500 split setup. Do you know what Mr. Cimarron did for his tach setup?? Looks like a HB is about $100 off of feebay, and I suppose machining would about the same. Seems like a good route to me to stick with the stock tach. I am just looking at costs from every angle. I can't have this swap turn into me taking out a second mortgage on my house.

If I recall correctly, Duiser used a Dakota digital box on Cimarron's truck...they may have picked up the signal from the alternator...but I am speculating a little there. @Mr Cimarron can probably confirm or deny my allegation.

A new Harmonic Balancer from Cummins cost me $181, and another $75 for the machine work. I am trying to keep the electronics on this build to a minimum...KISS. So this approach seemed to make the most sense to me.
 
I am on the same page with you on little electronics as possible. If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for the kit with Dustin the route your going? I am trying to get ballpark numbers. I am back and forth on which transfer case I want to go with.
 
We haven't determined the exact pricing of the adapter to the xfer case yet as it depends on the cost of the 2wd mainshaft. The Auto kit is $5k+, after you remove the belhousing, compushift and torque convertor charges, the remainder of the kit is $3800 shipped. At the end of the day the cost to go auto or manual will be very similar.
 
Yes Dakota Digital for both speedo and tach. Tach picks up the alternator wire. Both controllers are stashed behind the glove box.
 
So I have gone done a rabbit hole. I have decided to do a full overhaul on the cummins before it goes into the cruiser.

I am going to be running Mahle Clevite 286210 pistons, that have a significantly larger bowl than stock pistons...not sure if I am going to get these coated or not yet. I will get the 215 injectors pop tested and then have the nozzles extruded 20%. The head will get 60lb springs, the Injection pump will get a 4K governor spring and a #11 fuel plate. I will bump the timing up to 16 or 17 degrees and I will be looking for a Holset he351cw turbo. While I have it apart, I will also get the rods balanced.

This setup will likely produce a very drivable 350+ HP...not sure how much torque...but a lot. I know that the stock axles won't survive long under that level of power, but I will cross that road when I get there. If I have to upgrade to larger axles I will.

In other news, the first box of parts from Dustin just got mailed out and I have the instructions for the install...they are very detailed.
 
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