Direct Fit Replacement Parts (1 Viewer)

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Does there exist a list of Toyota parts made for non-Land Cruiser vehicle that fit the 2F motor? Specifically interested in a higher capacity alternator and a replacement power steering pump. If not, does anyone have recommendations for quality aftermarket replacements that are a direct fit for a '79 2F? Thanks!
 
AFAIK, direct-fit isn't happening from Toyota or anyone else. You can adapt an FJ60 alternator to work on that FJ40, and for the PS pump, either rebuild it or go with GM. You will never have '2-finger' steering with a Land Cruiser, but it shouldn't be grossly under-boosted with stock tires (or close to that size).
 
Rebuild the power steering pump. Having power steering is what makes your vehicle more valuable. Adding a GM unit (while great) will likely make you lose value for a 79.
 
Therein lies the rub....motor didn't come with the PS pump. But I can tell there was a bracket for it....
 
Does there exist a list of Toyota parts made for non-Land Cruiser vehicle that fit the 2F motor? Specifically interested in a higher capacity alternator and a replacement power steering pump. If not, does anyone have recommendations for quality aftermarket replacements that are a direct fit for a '79 2F? Thanks!


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you can find high output alternator there
 
Therein lies the rub....motor didn't come with the PS pump. But I can tell there was a bracket for it....

all Jan 79+ blocks were drilled and tapped for the power steering bracket. do you have a power steering gear box?

do you have any pics?
 
IMG_9411.JPG

IMG_9345.jpg

GM CS-145 alternator. Bolts right up to this style 40 bracket.
 
@3_puppies , I'll post one tomorrow. I don't know how to tell the difference.

@GHalll : that's exactly what I was looking for. I just removed my alternator tonight, and I'm pretty sure that's the bracket.

Thanks again, gents!
 
IMG_1696.JPG
Alternator from a 1995/96 Caddy Fleetweed Broughnom is what I started with. Thats a CS144 case, with the 12 and 6 mounting locations. If your current pulley won't line up on the new alternator, order a power master 111 dual belt pulley to help alignment. I believe I went to Orileys for the alternator. They sell the pigtail there as well. That makes it very easy to wire up.

You need a 4 AWG wire with ring terminals to go from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery. There is a plug with four wires, starting with the big wire (it has the larger of the four pins) they are:

S - connect this right to the "+" on the Alt. with a ring terminal (big wire)
F - Not needed
L - Connect to 12V key on source at the fuse panel
P - Not used

The fuse panel has blade terminals on the back of it to hook up the 12v key on source. DO NOT USE THE AMP GAUGE, it may melt or catch fire, you'll have to pull out the cluster, disconnect the amp gauge and wire the two amp gauge wires together to complete the circuit. Then you'll need to disconnect the factory external regulator. That's it! Two wires with the third being the 4AWG to the battery. Very easy set up. Hope this helps!

Edit: Some may say you need to wire in a 12v light to the 12v key on wire but you don't need it. Some threads may mention to wire up an alternator light, that's unnecessary too. If anything, wire up a digital volt gauge or buy a volt gauge that you can plug into the cig lighter if you ever have any questions as to weather the the vehicle is charging or not.
 
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View attachment 1416965 Alternator from a 1995/96 Caddy Fleetweed Broughnom is what I started with. Thats a CS144 case, with the 12 and 6 mounting locations. If your current pulley won't line up on the new alternator, order a power master 111 dual belt pulley to help alignment. I believe I went to Orileys for the alternator. They sell the pigtail there as well. That makes it very easy to wire up.

You need a 4 AWG wire with ring terminals to go from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery. There is a plug with four wires, starting with the big wire (it has the larger of the four pins) they are:

S - connect this right to the "+" on the Alt. with a ring terminal (big wire)
F - Not needed
L - Connect to 12V key on source at the fuse panel
P - Not used

The fuse panel has blade terminals on the back of it to hook up the 12v key on source. DO NOT USE THE AMP GAUGE, it may melt or catch fire, you'll have to pull out the cluster, disconnect the amp gauge and wire the two amp gauge wires together to complete the circuit. Then you'll need to disconnect the factory external regulator. That's it! Two wires with the third being the 4AWG to the battery. Very easy set up. Hope this helps!

Edit: Some may say you need to wire in a 12v light to the 12v key on wire but you don't need it. Some threads may mention to wire up an alternator light, that's unnecessary too. If anything, wire up a digital volt gauge or buy a volt gauge that you can plug into the cig lighter if you ever have any questions as to weather the the vehicle is charging or not.
So "s" goes from where to where? It just loops back to the alternator?
 

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