Diagnose my Cruiser (1 Viewer)

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lumbee1

Native American
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Sep 21, 2011
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66
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Location
Holly Springs, NC
I've got several issues with the Cruiser that I need some advice/assistance with. After swapping the U-joints out last week, I've noticed the truck isn't running as smoothly. When I dropped the driveshaft, I marked everything with Whiteout to make sure I put it back in the same way. U-joints went it great and my marks lined up perfectly. I drove it last week to make sure the driveline was smooth. I noticed a slight stumble/vibration at all speeds both on and off the accelerator. The condition of the drive surface didn't seem to make a difference and I continued to drive it hoping it would either get better or worse.

Today, I was planning to drive the Cruiser to see if things had changed. When I started it up, the idle was not smooth and driving to the bus stop I noticed the same stumble/vibration. What I thought was the driveshaft, could have been a slight misfire. After the kids got on the bus, I drove it around the block to try and warm the engine up. The stumble/vibration seemed to be more pronounced and idle was not smooth. By the time I got the truck back home, the idle was indicating something was definitely wrong with little jumps in the tach.

From my experience, I like to think of components as part of a system. In my case the fuel delivery system and the engine electrical system would cause my problem. I don't think this is fuel related and so I'm concentrating my focus on the electrical system.

The Cruiser is not driven often but within the last 12 months, I've replaced the TPS, sparkplugs, and rotor. I cleaned the dizzy cap and the throttle body. I will be pulling the plugs to examine them hopefully tonight. My plug wires look fine but the outside doesn't really give a good view of the inside. Is there a test for the wires or should I just replace them? Vacuum lines are fine. PCV needs to be replaced.

BTW, 2 months ago while driving down the hightway I lost spark/fuel to cylinder 4. The truck was running rough. I got off the highway and took back roads home. As I turned into my neighborhood, the truck started running fine. I pulled codes to determine it was a misfire on 4. It has never happened again but I thought I should throw that out there.

Is there anything I should look at?
 
Plug wires would definitely be worth a look at.
 
Did you clean out all the old grease in the slip yokes and regrease the driveshafts? If not, that could be a cause of the vibes (assuming you put them back together in phase).

Youve got a couple of options. If youve done the CDL switch and pin 7 mod, drop one shaft at a time, and drive the truck. See if the vibe goes away. Are you feeling the vibe in the seat or the wheel? In the seat, pull the rear first. in the wheel, pull the front shaft first.

Now onto the motor issue. intermittent stumble could be vacuum related. Grab a can of starting fluid, and lightly spray around all the vacuum hoses and ports. very short bursts of spray. It will run better when the fluid encounters a leaky hose. Even spray around the intake hose, because those can develop cracks.

@fj40z indicated plug wires. When it gets dark, open the hood, and start the truck. You may be able to see the spark plug wires arcing to ground. I had that issue on my old 4r, where the plug wires would arc when it was humid outside.
 
Simple things first. Try and rule out physical vs electrical stumbling.

Have you inspected the air hose?
Have you ever replaced wires with quality set?

Steve covered the easy checks.
To add using a spray bottle misting the wires may help show spark leak
Also using a propane or similar gas instead of liquid to see if you het a spike in roms may be easier to check for vacuum leaks.

TPS and IAC come to mind feom your description. Sounds like you replaced tps. Did you calibrate it per the fsm?
 
Slip yoke was degreased and cleaned up. Grease was added to the drive shaft. I pressed the shaft together, then I removed the zerk to burp the cavity and remove additional air and grease. The driveshaft was reinstalled in phase at ride height and then the zerk was threaded back in. If the driveshaft was out of phase, the vibration would be more noticeable, rhythmic, and consistent.

Air hose is good. Previous owner replaced it before I bought the truck and it is still very pliable.

I've got the CDL and 7-pin mod done and I've thought about dropping the shaft again to see if things change while driving. But that wouldn't help the stumble/vibration at idle.

When diagnosing the TPS failure, I sprayed starter fluid around the vacuum tubes and nothing changed. I replaced the TPS since their wasn't an easy way to troubleshoot it and the problem went away. TPS has been calibrated. An uncalibrated TPS has different symptoms and a broken TPS causes surging at idle. IAC was cleaned as best as possible when I had the TB off.

The only thing I haven't checked are the plug wires and I'm probably overdue for replacement since these appear to be original. The next question is Toyota or @Rice blue.
 
Slip yoke was degreased and cleaned up. Grease was added to the drive shaft. I pressed the shaft together, then I removed the zerk to burp the cavity and remove additional air and grease. The driveshaft was reinstalled in phase at ride height and then the zerk was threaded back in. If the driveshaft was out of phase, the vibration would be more noticeable, rhythmic, and consistent.

Air hose is good. Previous owner replaced it before I bought the truck and it is still very pliable.

I've got the CDL and 7-pin mod done and I've thought about dropping the shaft again to see if things change while driving. But that wouldn't help the stumble/vibration at idle.

When diagnosing the TPS failure, I sprayed starter fluid around the vacuum tubes and nothing changed. I replaced the TPS since their wasn't an easy way to troubleshoot it and the problem went away. TPS has been calibrated. An uncalibrated TPS has different symptoms and a broken TPS causes surging at idle. IAC was cleaned as best as possible when I had the TB off.

The only thing I haven't checked are the plug wires and I'm probably overdue for replacement since these appear to be original. The next question is Toyota or @Rice blue.

Blue is awful pretty, HOWEVER, I later learned the OEM wires come already loomed and ready to pop in! (That right @fj40z ?)
 
Yes the OEM wires are already loomed and super easy to install
 
I had what sounds like similar symptoms a long time ago when I had an 80. Ended up being wiring at the back of the engine/firewall area that were worn for whatever reason. Symptoms were stumbling idle, etc. Was not spark plug wire related...maybe injector harness...been a long time.
 
$119.08 for OEM wires coming from Richmond VA.
 
$119.08 for OEM wires coming from Richmond VA.

Sounds good, those guys have a good price. New wires also made a big difference when I changed them, hope thats it.

If not, I can dispose of the truck for a minor fee.
 
check egr valve make sure it open/close ( i have a small vacuum pump to test if you like) make sure the wiring harness under the egr pipe connector isn't chaffing and wires. check hoses buy dipstick, to make sure one didn't get knocked loose.

did you spray or rinse the motor recently, maybe got some moisture in the dizzy.
 
check egr valve make sure it open/close ( i have a small vacuum pump to test if you like) make sure the wiring harness under the egr pipe connector isn't chaffing and wires. check hoses buy dipstick, to make sure one didn't get knocked loose.

did you spray or rinse the motor recently, maybe got some moisture in the dizzy.
My Cruiser stays dirty. The Cruiser has had a CEL since 2008 for the EGR. Each year, I clear the CEL, get it inspected, and wait a few miles for the CEL to return. I read too many horror stories about spending $$$$ to fix a P0401.
 
My Cruiser stays dirty. The Cruiser has had a CEL since 2008 for the EGR. Each year, I clear the CEL, get it inspected, and wait a few miles for the CEL to return. I read too many horror stories about spending $$$$ to fix a P0401.

Glad to know I'm not the only one. I hope mine works like that for at least that many years.
 
Just throw in an LS3 and forget about it :)
 

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