Currie Vs Whiteline (1 Viewer)

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RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
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Alright I have the x heavy Whiteline installed and it defintly does its job on the road(combined with new springs) But off road will the currie serve me better than a sway bar? Now I know theres many on here that are rolling thier eyes, BUT believe it or not a forum is designed to do excatly what Im asking. If you have either and know the answer please chime in . Because I went over literally miles of stones and boulders bigger than my tires and want to know if the currie will help MORE than the sway bar does now. Heres a tad of the wheeling I did and you can see the rig kind of drop like the springs just collapsed several times.and before anyone blames it on the rooftop and rack they are only 198lbs combined and this wasnt as bad when I did this road with king springs in.
 
Adding more swaybar would hurt your off-road ability. Most want to disconnect while off-road. Swaybars are an on-road tool.
I get that I dont run a front at all, but what Im asking will the currie help control roll a bit off road/
 
After seeing a rear bar folded up on a stump at the Yankee Toys fall crawl, I would not invest in a replacement rear bar. The Currie would be much more out of the way. And from what I am seeing, I think you are looking for less rear roll stiffness, not more. At least with a Currie type bar, you could play around with various diameter bars until you found something you like.
 
Are you in first gear or in drive on the tranny? Looks like you are just going fast thru bumps, slow it down would be my suggestion
 
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Are you in first gear or in drive on the tranny? Looks like you are just going fast thru bumps, slow it down would be my suggestion
im in lo lo those rocks are 24-36plus tall. 4 hi wouldnt work and I was going 1mph or less
 
You re geared? Just sounds like your throttle though, yes I'd have it in low and low on tcase, point being slower you can go the less roll
 
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Let a little more air out of your tires and learn to push both pedals down at the same time. Both will smooth out your ride without changing any equipment. Momentum is your friend going over rocks. Slow down a bit and keep rolling steady.
 
Let a little more air out of your tires and learn to push both pedals down at the same time. Both will smooth out your ride without changing any equipment. Momentum is your friend going over rocks. Slow down a bit and keep rolling steady.
will do, I was down to 8 PSi I forgot to mention that and Im still learning the yota and now shes taller thanks man
 
yup 4:88s and 5:29 lo lo and a crate tranny its fine any fault is driver
 
i would add some weight in the cargo bay. 200-300lbs and then see how much better your spring soaks up bumps and if it ramps up a little slower as it travels a bit more. You arent even close to stuffing tires on either side so you have quite a bit more travel. the added weight will effectively increase your stroke and make the weight shift slightly more progressively before coming to the end of that travel. thwt should take out some of the jarring feel.

also -get a ziptie and put it on your shock to see how much travell you are actually using.

how much wider did you go than stock with tires/rims.? you might consider 1/4-1/2” more width which should give a touch more stability.

you would be surprised how much more tippy than whats in the video an 80 can get before it comes over. and also how much slower you can go to control the weight. grab a coffee -and try to drive and not spill........then you will see how much more control your 80 has. A coffee in your hand in that vid would have been all over you and the wifey mainly due to speed.
 
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will do, I was down to 8 PSi I forgot to mention that and Im still learning the yota and now shes taller thanks man

Are thase E rated tires? They look really stiff for being at 8 psi.
 
Are thase E rated tires? They look really stiff for being at 8 psi.
yes they are E rated. Im not sure if anyone remembers but I didnt have many choices when I got new tires for this truck. I like these tires but they are super loud and when wet arent the best rock crawlers in MOAB and colorado they did great(dry/warm) out here not the best.
 
Adding more swaybar would hurt your off-road ability. Most want to disconnect while off-road. Swaybars are an on-road tool.
Very wrong unless all you do is park on the metalcloak trailer.
 
Just gonna throw this out there- I cross connected the air bags I put in my rear springs to help the rear end articulate better. The idea was to push the low end down more by using the air pressure from the high side, theoretically helping offset the sway bar torsion and help the articulation off road. I was concerned that on the road it would lead to swaying and other unpleasantness, so initially I ran the connecting air line through a solenoid valve to be able to turn it on or off depending on conditions. Then I simplified things by just putting a restrictor fitting in the line to slow down the side to side air transfer and it seems to work just fine for the slow trail crawls that I get into.

But I am on 265's with no lift, so this air bag thing may not even be possible on your truck. (Which is really killer by the way, love that color!) However, my rig can get all the way over to 30 degrees of tilt by my inclinometer and not flop. It's very scary and I don't like cutting it that close at all, but I have had to do it several times. One of these days either she's gonna slip and flip or I'll have too heavy a heavy load of equipment on board or something and she'll go over, but so far so good. I don't believe she'll go much past 30 though, it feels really sketchy right there.

I like the air bag setup and you can feel it working when you get a wheel up on something; first it feels stiff and then it settles slightly. That's all I was looking for, just a little help with the flex to help spread the weight better across all the wheels. I don't drive much on freeways and such but I do commute with my rig every day; no nasty handling issues noted so far from this system. If I had any handling issues I'd probably just put the solenoid back in; the air bags help a lot when I'm really geared up heavy.

If you are concerned that a stiffer sway bar might limit your articulation off road, this kind of setup may help with that. Just something else to consider.
 
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We can agree to disagree, I prefer an off-road truck with less swaybar, and have for a lot longer than metalcloak has been around.

Very wrong unless all you do is park on the metalcloak trailer.
 
Whether you want to hear it or not, 200 pounds on the roof is going to add momentum to your side-to-side movement. It doesn't sound like a lot of weight, but it's high, which adds leverage and multiplies the motion. I have a roof rack which has at various times been wheeled loaded with similar weight and unloaded, and the difference is significant.
 
In my opinion, the 'issues' you are experiencing have less to do with the sway bars and more to do with driving style and weight on the roof. You're driving a 7000lb top-heavy truck in a rock garden with way too much skinny pedal. You are most certainly gonna feel the thing rock violently side to side. You have a stiff radius arm suspension on stiff coil springs. It's not gonna conform easily to boulders. The body of the truck will move before the suspension starts to compress. Ease up on the gas, practice throttle control. It will get easier over time. If you really want the suspension to soak up more of the rocks and flex better off-road the radius arms need to go.
 
We can agree to disagree, I prefer an off-road truck with less swaybar, and have for a lot longer than metalcloak has been around.
Ok. Well you can disagree with the 99% of competitive offroaders that prefer a sway bar.
 

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