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- #61
Floor in with all captured nuts. A lot of in and out with the two floor pan pieces to get trans cover and seat nuts in, but all the bolts fit with the pan welded in without any prying or hammering. Time to finish inner rockers
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- #62
Inner rockers in. Being self employed has its benefits, even during a crash in the market you cater to. It's nice making good progress on the fj but I hope the crash doesn't last too long, I'll need paint soon.
Would you be able to give me a location for the nuts that hold the driver side seat pillar? Maybe one dimension off rocker and one off rise at beginning of bed? I am welding my drivers side floor pan in now. PO had it welded to the floor. May save me some in and out with the seats. Thanks.
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- #64
I have 3 3/4" perpendicular from inner rocker and 15 13/16" from mid bed rise rear to front pillar hole (hole directly below seat mount hole). Also, its 17" from rear bracket bolt hole to front pillar bolt hole. Hope this is some help.
Thank you.
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- #66
Top rail patches are in, just need to grind down welds. Now on to the ambulance doors. They aren't the worst I have ever seen, but still need some patching.
Wow you are really making progress. Make sure and wear a dust mask when grinding all that metal. I didn't wear a mask for years, now if I don't wear one I feel ill afterward.
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- #68
It's been some slow progress on the amby doors. I've got the DS done and am nearly done with the PS. I've been fighting some disease the kids brought home. Will post pictures later. Harvest is now in full swing so time is limited.
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- #69
Ambulance doors patched and ready for the blaster. Now to finish grinding spotwelds on the floor and patch a small spot on the hood. I think I may see a little light at the end of the tunnel.
I just gotta say, I'll probably never learn to weld, but am really enjoying watching you do your thing.
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- #71
Thanks. It's fun having something that shows my progress. I wish I would have kept track of my build when i did my 71' Monte Carlo.I just gotta say, I'll probably never learn to weld, but am really enjoying watching you do your thing.
Wow very nice-and great progress photos. that looks so familiar. This will give the southwest people something to reference when they say theirs is rusty.
great work. the good thing about a 40 is that it can be enjoyed even parked in the garage....
Enviado desde mi IdeaTab A2107A-F mediante Tapatalk
Enviado desde mi IdeaTab A2107A-F mediante Tapatalk
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- #74
Well... I was going to patch up the lip around the transmission hump, but it has some pretty good rot in the spots with the most angles and curves. I don't know if i feel like spending a dozen hours to make it square and solid. I am looking for a good used one, if such a thing exists. Time to pour through classified ads. If I can't find one for less than $150 I will just spend the time, it can't be any worse than patching lower ambulance doors.
What? Amby doors are hard to patch? Oh-h-h no-o-o...
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- #76
Not hard just a pain
If you are making your own patches and bending the lip for the outer skin that wraps around the inner door panel lip its a pain to keep a straight line with the original door outline. Just time consuming not hard. I can't stand waves and lines that are not straight so I spend more time than I should, but it helps keep the amount of body filler needed to a minimum. IMHO amby door patches are overpriced, due to the fact that it's a pain to make them.What? Amby doors are hard to patch? Oh-h-h no-o-o...
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- #77
Getting ready to dive into the trans hump.
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- #78
Transmission hump done.
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- #79
Now starting on slotting holes and getting the new CCOT front fenders to line up with everything else. I predict foul language in my future.
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- #80
The CCOT replacement fenders from Taiwan are acceptable the frame brace placement and shape stink. The die they used for the brace must be on its last leg. I cut the spot welds and pulled the braces off to get proper alignment because the brace needs some blue wrench and hammer/prying tools to get it right. I'd use my old braces but the upper ends are really rusty. Remember to wear gloves when handling the complete fenders from CCOT because there are A LOT of sharp edges.
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