Curing cancer, 76 FJ40

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Why stop at pictures? We need videos and of the removal too!!
:) Thank you for sharing..

Ps...a videos series of "how to" for body work removal and install by section would be awesome.
1. sill
2. Corners
3. Bed
4. Center beam
Etc...
I'll try some video with my phone but I am not making any promises. The worst part about trying to show how to remove and replace/repair something for me is you actually need something to remove besides loosely consolidated rust.
 
I'll try some video with my phone but I am not making any promises. The worst part about trying to show how to remove and replace/repair something for me is you actually need something to remove besides loosely consolidated rust.

Great! Thank you. I am also curious about the centerbeam work, will subscribe and check out toomanytoyzz youtube channel next.
 
To recap, I am getting ready for PS quarter replacement. Here are a couple pictures of the rear "sill" I replaced before doing quarters. I know there was a request for more pictures/video of the procedure. Notice the PO's custom door catch in the first pic.

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As I hope you can see the lack of a rear sill other than rusty horns. The PO simply put in a 16 ga piece of sheet down for the floor and bent a 16 ga "sill cover" to go where the sill should have been. There was no actual support other than what was remaining of the horns and the center channel.
 
PS quarter removed. Notice the excellent support provided by the corner channel. Corner channel replacement will be contemporary to the quarter panel install because IMHO it is the only way I can get the correct dimensions for the rear of the tub. So long as the CCOT channel is correct and it seems to be.

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PS wheel well top in, wheel well side half tacked into place. Used an adjustable square to make sure the top was parallel to the top of the quarter panel. My main issue for the PS is the fuel fill pocket on the replacement panel is a bit larger than the pocket I have to weld on. Gonna have to get the grinder on the lip on the panel.

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Had to adjust DS rear quarter because it was uneven compared to the PS. After looking at where the quarter panel lower rear lip runs along the bottom of the sill I noticed a gap on the outside end where it curves down around the rear cross frame. Cut spot welds and jacked it up to make it flat along the sill. My gaps at the curves now look and feel even. It was a PIA since my spot weld cutter was not big enough.

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Rust sucks. I had a 76 40 for 15 years and one of the reasons I threw in the towel and sold it is that the rockers, fenders and quarter panels that I had repaired by welding in new 16 ga steel and painting 15 years ago had rusted out again. The other reasons were I had to get it to pass smog every two years and my sons would take it out, beat it up and drop it in my drive way for me to fix. Sad but true. I miss it, but I don't miss the problems.
 
Finished welding in rear bed to both wheel wells and the floor is parallel to the wheel well tops. Had to cut the front of the wheel well where it would have a lap joint on the main center channel. This was because when I welded the wheel well sides on the WWs sat too high on the front to be level with the floor.
 
When setting the mid bed in a clamping it into place I had a gap at the PS rear that tappered along the WW to no gap at the front. The other side was flush against the WW but had a small gap where the mid bed goes along the mid channel wing cover. I thought I may have the tub slightly askew so I put the top and doors on to check alignment. My cross tub measurements where within a 1/16"-1/8". Everything seems to fit together pretty well.

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