Fully upgraded axles MIGHT handle the power, but only if you ran 36" tires or less. I'm interested in these axles more than anything, those look killer!
Builds Cummins 6BT install in FZJ80 (1 Viewer)
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Fully upgraded axles MIGHT handle the power, but only if you ran 36" tires or less. I'm interested in these axles more than anything, those look killer!
Alkaline, not trying to publicly bust your balls, but how do you know? Have you had a diesel powered 80 with 36" tires?
Nope, but I've seen a 6bt powered jeep with D60s front and rear, it busted them all to hell with 35's. I'm just gonna assume that the extra weight of an 80 over a Jeep would make things even worse. Yea I know I'm comparing a Jeep to an LC, but it is a D60 axle to a Toy 9.5, fairly close in strength.
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- #104
Well, Alot of it has to do with how you wheel.. If your gonna run your rig hard and wild.. your bound to break something.. its not the weight that breaks things.. its the Torque, Hp, and driving habbits that break things..
Drive nice, and you should not have any problems.. drive like you stole it.. and your going to break more than just your axles.
I went with the portal axles because I knew I would boost the power of the diesel with in the next two years from stock to about 550hp, 1000+Torque
As far as my progress is going.. Im still waiting for the axles to come in. We (the Fabricator and I) have decided to wait untill the axles come in before we set the drivetrain to make sure everything is tits and then weld everything up... so Im hoping to get axles this month.. if not im told before X-mas. Well see what happens, and Ill keep you all updated.
-Ron
Drive nice, and you should not have any problems.. drive like you stole it.. and your going to break more than just your axles.
I went with the portal axles because I knew I would boost the power of the diesel with in the next two years from stock to about 550hp, 1000+Torque
As far as my progress is going.. Im still waiting for the axles to come in. We (the Fabricator and I) have decided to wait untill the axles come in before we set the drivetrain to make sure everything is tits and then weld everything up... so Im hoping to get axles this month.. if not im told before X-mas. Well see what happens, and Ill keep you all updated.
-Ron
theres heaps of forums and in information around for cummins " B" series conversions , i was going to do a conversion with a 4BT into an uprated jeep 68' J-truck with a ZF 6 sp box , the 4 bt's came out of USA parcel , bread vans & air port trucks , you can get really good mileage out of one in the vicinity of 25- 32 mpg ( 4bt ) , the 4bt& 6bt are virtually identical minus the 2 cylinders & the like . There are alot of different versions of each motor around . the 6bt is quite heavy at around 1100lbs , think the 4bt is around 900lbs . they can handle most abuse and more , tough engines .
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
nice pics dude .. this Atlas 4 spds rocks !
you got those portals yet?! christmas is just around the corner eh!
- Thread starter
- #108
No!......
they didnt like how the castings turned out. So they are going to use someone else... so my Curiser continues to sit out front... unable to move.
Though I have found some local dealers where I can get my new tires. 47" XL's for about 250.oo and the 53" XZL' are 350-600. I donno .. well see .. first I have to get the axles. It will be a Year since ive torn her apart in the month of march.
So. Im looking about another 8 weeks out by the time someone else can create and cast new center section housings, then send over a sample to be inspected, and if that passes.. maybe by tax season ill have something..
Or, I coud go with the 1-piece units that you can see on thier websight.. Ive waited this long.. whats another 2 weeks.
-Ron
they didnt like how the castings turned out. So they are going to use someone else... so my Curiser continues to sit out front... unable to move.
Though I have found some local dealers where I can get my new tires. 47" XL's for about 250.oo and the 53" XZL' are 350-600. I donno .. well see .. first I have to get the axles. It will be a Year since ive torn her apart in the month of march.
So. Im looking about another 8 weeks out by the time someone else can create and cast new center section housings, then send over a sample to be inspected, and if that passes.. maybe by tax season ill have something..
Or, I coud go with the 1-piece units that you can see on thier websight.. Ive waited this long.. whats another 2 weeks.
-Ron
That trans/ atlas combo looks BEAUTIFUL! whats the lenght of the trans & what are the specifics of adapting it to an Atlas (splines, bolt pattern, adapter & tailshaft length etc.)? I may look into bolting a build 47re or 48re up to a 203.
Sucks about the axles! What happens if you break a casting, will replacements be available? I'm sick of dealing with fab companies that can never meet deadlines, sometimes missing them by 10x their initial ETA when taking your $$$.
oh yeah, whats the length of your rear drive shaft. I only have 29" with my TBI350, 700r4 & 203/205 double?. your combo has to be atleast 6" longer than mine.
Sucks about the axles! What happens if you break a casting, will replacements be available? I'm sick of dealing with fab companies that can never meet deadlines, sometimes missing them by 10x their initial ETA when taking your $$$.
oh yeah, whats the length of your rear drive shaft. I only have 29" with my TBI350, 700r4 & 203/205 double?. your combo has to be atleast 6" longer than mine.
Sucks about the axles man...been following you on this since last Spring. It will get there eventually.
Saw this post regarding the 30D. Awesome camera. I went with a used 10D a year ago and haven't looked back. If you want to spare yourself some money, you can pick up a 10D with a few lenses for under a grand. Great camera, not much different than a 30D (3 years older). Always a few features off from the latest and greatest, but IMO, not worth the extra few thousand with lenses and all. All you really need on top of that is a good 15 or 17mm wide lense for those up close and personal Atlas and portal shots!!!
Saw this post regarding the 30D. Awesome camera. I went with a used 10D a year ago and haven't looked back. If you want to spare yourself some money, you can pick up a 10D with a few lenses for under a grand. Great camera, not much different than a 30D (3 years older). Always a few features off from the latest and greatest, but IMO, not worth the extra few thousand with lenses and all. All you really need on top of that is a good 15 or 17mm wide lense for those up close and personal Atlas and portal shots!!!
- Thread starter
- #111
Off hand I do not now how long the transmissions and transfercase are. I do know though.. that the Output Shaft comming off of the transmission has to be cut, inrder for the 2 to cometogeather with out breaking anything.
As far as having a transmission built.. It doesent matter which you use, after its built, the 47re and 48re are just as strong. It will depend on which one will be easyer to find for your core.
Portel-Tek will be producing thier own castings.. Thats what I am waiting on. They said the castings they recieved a few weeks ago had some flaws in them.. so they are going to have them recased by someone else. At the cost of an additional 8 weeks, give or take. But when all is said and done.. they say that these axles should be the replacement for the hard to find mog and volvo axles, with the avi. of a better gear selection, and parts.
As of yet.. I am unsure how long the drive shaft will have to be. Im waiting on the axles to come in before weld in the engine mounts and set the engine. .. so alot is riding on the axles getting done and in my rig. then Ill beable to take it over and have some custom axles made for the front and rear. Ill let you know what size they are when all is said and done.
About the 30d, I have found it for 1300, with a lense. not too much more than the 20d. And if I were to buy form one of thoes places on the internet.. I have found where you can buy a whole kit for under 1500, inclufddes 2-3 lenses case cover, etc. It just seems as if the prioce is too good to be true.. For now though.. Ill just use the camera which is built into our camcorder. This way ill beable to take a vid. of her when she first fires up.
As far as having a transmission built.. It doesent matter which you use, after its built, the 47re and 48re are just as strong. It will depend on which one will be easyer to find for your core.
Portel-Tek will be producing thier own castings.. Thats what I am waiting on. They said the castings they recieved a few weeks ago had some flaws in them.. so they are going to have them recased by someone else. At the cost of an additional 8 weeks, give or take. But when all is said and done.. they say that these axles should be the replacement for the hard to find mog and volvo axles, with the avi. of a better gear selection, and parts.
As of yet.. I am unsure how long the drive shaft will have to be. Im waiting on the axles to come in before weld in the engine mounts and set the engine. .. so alot is riding on the axles getting done and in my rig. then Ill beable to take it over and have some custom axles made for the front and rear. Ill let you know what size they are when all is said and done.
About the 30d, I have found it for 1300, with a lense. not too much more than the 20d. And if I were to buy form one of thoes places on the internet.. I have found where you can buy a whole kit for under 1500, inclufddes 2-3 lenses case cover, etc. It just seems as if the prioce is too good to be true.. For now though.. Ill just use the camera which is built into our camcorder. This way ill beable to take a vid. of her when she first fires up.
Hope ya had a good Christmas and New Year.
Beware of Too good to be true deals on cameras for sure! If you go for it, make sure you send a source of funds that is returnable.
wow just found this and it is amazing!!
hope the axels come in soon so we can see this thing on the road.
hope the axels come in soon so we can see this thing on the road.
this thing looks great!!
quick question for anyone - what are the 'good years' to look for when searching out a 6bt? i heard something about years with minimal wiring - does this mean anything to anyone?
quick question for anyone - what are the 'good years' to look for when searching out a 6bt? i heard something about years with minimal wiring - does this mean anything to anyone?
The best years for the 6BT are prior to 1999, I believe, because those are the ones that only have 2 wires to run the engine. The 1994-early1998 engines are the best for performance, because they have the Bosch P7100 inline fuel pump. This pump has the capability of fueling the engine for applications up to 600hp. What makes it the best is that you can buy a $200 dollar kit that will boost the power of any of the engines with the P7100 pump up to 230hp and 600lb/ft.
That is the route that I will be going.
- Thread starter
- #116
Out of all the Cummins engine years, I found the 1996 year to be what I wanted. That year for the manual version of the truck had the most hp/tq, a little bit larger stock turbo over the auto, and had intercooling. Sometime during the late 96 year, the went from 12 valve to 24valve. Also for the fuel pump, it responds well to tweeking, and you can run wvo (waste veggy oil) or refined veggy oil through the pump with little to no worrys.
I chose the 12 valve. If you prefer, you can strip the engine of the wiring harness, then add only what you want.. the only problem you will run into is if you use an engine from a manual tranny, and hook that up with the auto tranny. you gain the 15-30 hp/tq with the manual.. but you loose the little device that reads your throttle positioner when using it with the auto. . Im told its easy to make one up. Anyways.. you only need a power wire to the starter and to the fuel injection pump. everything else is optional. oil, water, batt, charge indicators, tach, etc.
After that you have to decide on weather or not you want to go with the hydraulic tranny which uses no electronics, (47RH) ... or go with the other two options which are electronic, the 47RE and the 48RE. If you want to run the electronic trannys, for the extra gearing, and options they allow, you have to get yourself a seperate computer controlled valve body and a stand alone tranny computer. whcih you can program to do just about what ever you want. for an additional 1200 or so on top of the rebuild of the tranny which will be needed.
If you do the swap right the first time.. its not a cheep swap.. but I belive its worth the extra up front, than down the road when somethings gives out.
Id say.. about 2500-3000 for a rebuilt tranny with its stand alone computer, and a better tq converter. and up to 10K for all Billit parts. if your gonna be running over 400-500hp
.. Then you have to decide if you need to upgrade the rest of your drive train... Ohh and dont for get about the Killer Dowel Pin mod... Youll have to look it up for the excact details .. but if it lets go (the dowel pin) so does your engine.
I chose the 12 valve. If you prefer, you can strip the engine of the wiring harness, then add only what you want.. the only problem you will run into is if you use an engine from a manual tranny, and hook that up with the auto tranny. you gain the 15-30 hp/tq with the manual.. but you loose the little device that reads your throttle positioner when using it with the auto. . Im told its easy to make one up. Anyways.. you only need a power wire to the starter and to the fuel injection pump. everything else is optional. oil, water, batt, charge indicators, tach, etc.
After that you have to decide on weather or not you want to go with the hydraulic tranny which uses no electronics, (47RH) ... or go with the other two options which are electronic, the 47RE and the 48RE. If you want to run the electronic trannys, for the extra gearing, and options they allow, you have to get yourself a seperate computer controlled valve body and a stand alone tranny computer. whcih you can program to do just about what ever you want. for an additional 1200 or so on top of the rebuild of the tranny which will be needed.
If you do the swap right the first time.. its not a cheep swap.. but I belive its worth the extra up front, than down the road when somethings gives out.
Id say.. about 2500-3000 for a rebuilt tranny with its stand alone computer, and a better tq converter. and up to 10K for all Billit parts. if your gonna be running over 400-500hp
.. Then you have to decide if you need to upgrade the rest of your drive train... Ohh and dont for get about the Killer Dowel Pin mod... Youll have to look it up for the excact details .. but if it lets go (the dowel pin) so does your engine.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
its sound like a big $$$$$ with all of those add ons !
if i remember right, a little less than the portal teks, and these are ready to go
